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Author Topic: Leonardo Clone out already!  (Read 23004 times)
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Leighton Buzzard, UK
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Looks good fm.
Not sure what you touched up but it looks good.

How do I duplicate it right above itself and end with 2 on a 5cm x 5cm board?

I see a panelize.ulp, not sure what to do with it.
Or 4 on a 10cm x 10cm board even, end up with 65 cent boards.

Hello crossroads
saw your email
you have a reply!

for everyone else (open source and all that)
here's what I found that seems to work for me (using Eagle 6):
a)   Finish the design (this is a one-way process form here on in!)
b)   Save everything (see above)
c)   Close the schematic window (yes, really)
d)   You should now have a “board-only” project
e)   Select whichever layers you want (all is neat)
f)   Use the clone and group tools to select everything you want duplicated
g)   CTRL-Right click to select the group
h)   You then have a copy loitering ready to be placed
i)   Once you’re happy with the location left-click to deposit the copy
j)   Save AS a different name (so you don’t crap on your new best design!)
« Last Edit: January 07, 2012, 07:01:02 am by mmcp42 » Logged

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Málaga, Spain
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@CrossRoads - didn't do much to the board, just some minor routing straightening, fixed some non 45º tracks, nothing substantial at all. The best way is the one proposed by mmcp42 to duplicate the board. The panelize.ulp the only thing it does is to replace the component names so that when you duplicate them they don't go on counting. It places them on a different layer. Even with the method described by mmcp42 you will have this problem.
For example, if your design has C1, C2, and C3, when you copy them you will have: C1, C2, C3 and C4, C5, C6.
However, when you run the panelize.ulp, it will place the components on a different layer and when you duplicate them you will not have duplicated names. When ordering, you have to use that layer for you tnames and bnames.

On last thing, make sure when ordering the panelized board is either in 0.8mm or 0.6mm, if not it is a real pain to cut the 1.6mm FR4 and some PCBs may get damaged in the attempt of cutting them. The other thing that has worked out well for me on panels with iTead is to leave a small connection between boards using the outline as if it was just one board. So the outline of the board are not fully closed but connected with a small 5mm outline on each board.
« Last Edit: January 07, 2012, 07:49:00 am by fm » Logged

   

Málaga, Spain
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This is kind of what I am talking about.

We may even get away with 4 0.5mm drills on the separation.

« Last Edit: January 07, 2012, 08:43:11 am by fm » Logged

   

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Is it supposed to rename all the components, or is that because I had tried the panelize.ulp  thing before?
Lost all the pin names too.


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So maybe like this adilinden, with a little more circuitry for USB interface - or maybe just mount a USB/Serial module to the bottom of the board and avoid that nasty little surface mount work

I actually do like surface mount and prefer over DIP. I am doing board dimensions to explain what I have in mind. One question, though, 5cm x 5cm does not line up with the 2.54mm (or 100mil) grid. I'd like to center the board on the grid, so connectors lined up with the grid are an equal distance from the board edge. Can I have the board edges offset from the 0,0 coordinates in Eagle? If my board is 1968mil x 1968mil, then the bottom left corner of the board should be at 16,16 for it to be centered on the 100mil grid. Is that proper practice?
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Málaga, Spain
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Hi CrossRoads, I think that the best thing to do is:
- On the layer panel, select everything.
- Select + cut + paste everything.

It looks as if you haven't selected the pin numbers for the selection for the cut + paste.

The panelize macro, will rename all the part names and place them on a different layer (can't remember the name). However, the originals should still be there.
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Here is a mockup of what I have in mind. The board is just under 5cmx5cm (1968mil x 1968mil). The connectors are placed on a 100mil grid. All connector pins will line up with a protoboard. There is a dedicated dual row header for serial communications, regardless of how they happen to be mapped to digital pins. Depending on the processor, one could duplicate IO on the serial communications header or one could dedicate the serial functions to just that header. The SPI pins are arranged in ICSP fashion. A 3x2 male header strip will be needed to connect a female 6-pin ICSP connector to the SPI/ICSP female header. I don't know if it would make sense to split the 7x2 header into 3x2 (SPI/ICSP) and 4x2 (I2C/UART). Nor do I know if it would make sense to expand the connector to more then one SPI, one I2S, and two UART

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But that is very similar to the vinciDuino which is capable of hosting standard shields and also prototyping ones but with a dedicated comms header.

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Leighton Buzzard, UK
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@CrossRoads
I hid the layer that had the pin numbers when I sent you a sample
here is a screen shot with it not hidden
I had to delete the captions that were outside the board area...




updated the picture
« Last Edit: January 07, 2012, 04:29:28 pm by mmcp42 » Logged

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But that is very similar to the vinciDuino which is capable of hosting standard shields and also prototyping ones but with a dedicated comms header.

Yes it is. But the vinciDuino is larger then 5cm x 5cm. Since the vinciDuino is Arduino shield compatible it also has all the same challenges that come with providing header pins when switching to a higher pin count processor such as an AT90USB1286 or a ATmega1284P (with FTDI).

I am working on a project that will require USB, ethernet and GSM connectifity. Possibly some basic environmental monitoring like temperature and humidity thrown in too. I have been playing with a couple of different Arduino (compatible) boards, the chipKit UNO32 and the Arduino Duemilanove. I also have an Ethernet Shield and GSM Shield. For either Arduino I had to make hardware mods to support the shields. The final product will have to be assembled on a custom board rather then use already available shields (and mod them).

I also have a couple of Amateur Radio related projects, but either one of those will work fine using the Arduino form factor with a custom analog interface board. However, one of the projects will likely require significantly more RAM then what the ATmega382P or ATmega32U4 have to offer. I created an ATmega1284P based board to have access to more RAM, that was before I noticed Teensy and the AT90USB1286.

Based on all of those assumptions, I am wondering if I should just make single 10x10 boards for these projects as I move from prototype (using Arduinos and shields) to something presentable? Or, should I do something modular?
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In the image posted by mmcp42, you can clearly see how the part names have been increased. For example, the crystal is Q1 on one board, and Q2 on the one above. Capacitor C1 on the lower board and C23 on the top board.

This is what the panelize.ulp script fixes by moving the part names to a different layer.

@adilinden - what I regularly do is use "standard" boards to prototype a particular product but when moving to the final product I tend move to a custom build board. For serveral reasons:
- "standard" boards, have a realy rubbish ground plane setup. Both digital and analog share the same ground plane.
- "standard" boards, share the same 5V supply without any filtering, so switching noise gets all over the place, both induced and radiated.
- long wires going to headers, ... uhm... analog long wires going to pin headers, ...uhmmmmm
- if you go for low power, i.e. battery operated boards, the UNOs for example have always the 8U2 up and running plus the regultaror.

However, the are very good like Swiss Army kniefs. The only "stackable" boards I do are either for training, or bare bones AVRs that are very simple to assemble, lightweight and easy to insert into an ad-hoc board. The latter I tend to use them on drones, robots and several projects that I've done as very small building blocks.

in MHO, multi-purpose, multi-stackable boards, tend to be a bit messy and the design can't be optimised for the particular application.
« Last Edit: January 07, 2012, 06:08:26 pm by fm » Logged

   

Leighton Buzzard, UK
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Aha
I tried panelize and it does what you said - very neat

As soon as I get broadband back, I'll post a new piccie

Thanks for the hints
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Boards are ordedred. We'll see if itead complains about the double board.
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Arduino for Teens available at Amazon.com.

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Ok, cool. Have you ordered the boards with the attachment like in the 3D rendering where the 27 is?

What board thickness?
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I actually do like surface mount and prefer over DIP. ... Can I have the board edges offset from the 0,0 coordinates in Eagle?

I just found out about toaster oven reflow soldering. Maybe I'll give it a go?

In Eagle, you can use the move tool to grab and move your board outline, or use the info tool on the outline. Works fine AFAICT.
« Last Edit: January 07, 2012, 06:38:44 pm by jwatte » Logged

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