kculm:
There are only 2 PWM pins PIN 0 (5)
and PIN 1 (6)
This is a common misconception. ATTiny85 has 4 pins capable of PWM, with two sharing the same clock source. I routinely use this little uC to run RGB LEDs.
Sorry still stuck on this iPad or would post an example.
Also, it is possible to drive any of the pins by software PWM if the application is lighting or anything else where accuracy or high frequencies aren't a requirement.
kculm:
There are only 2 PWM pins PIN 0 (5)
and PIN 1 (6)
This is a common misconception. ATTiny85 has 4 pins capable of PWM, with two sharing the same clock source. I routinely use this little uC to run RGB LEDs.
Sorry still stuck on this iPad or would post an example.
Also, it is possible to drive any of the pins by software PWM if the application is lighting or anything else where accuracy or high frequencies aren't a requirement.
Cheers! Geoff
Really! if i had of known this 2 weeks ago, you'd have saved me about 30 bucks!
Which pins use PWM on the attiny85, i'll update my schematic - Thanks
Confirming the changes my side were removing the Serial.begin() and these pin assignments
int switchPin = 3; // IC leg 2 (PB3)
int led1Pin = 0; // IC leg 5 (PB0)
int led2Pin = 1; // IC leg 6 (PB1)
int led3Pin = 4; // IC leg 3 (PB4)
Also, here's how it would look modified to use the internal pull-up resistor on the switch (as mentioned earlier). For this circuit you'd not have any additional resistors on the switch circuit, just wire to the switch and from there to ground.
/*
* Night Lite, final version
*/
int switchPin = 3; // IC leg 2 (PB3)
int led1Pin = 0; // IC leg 5 (PB0)
int led2Pin = 1; // IC leg 6 (PB1)
int led3Pin = 4; // IC leg 3 (PB4)
int val; // variable for reading the pin status
int val2; // variable for reading the delayed status
int buttonState; // variable to hold the button state
int lightMode = 0; // What mode is the light in?
void setup() {
pinMode(switchPin, INPUT); // Set the switch pin as input
digitalWrite(switchPin, HIGH); // set internal pull-up resistor
pinMode(led1Pin, OUTPUT);
pinMode(led2Pin, OUTPUT);
pinMode(led3Pin, OUTPUT);
buttonState = digitalRead(switchPin); // read the initial state
}
void loop(){
val = digitalRead(switchPin); // read input value and store it in val
delay(10); // 10 milliseconds is a good amount of time
val2 = digitalRead(switchPin); // read the input again to check for bounces
if (val == val2) { // make sure we got 2 consistant readings!
if (val != buttonState) { // the button state has changed!
if (val == LOW) { // check if the button is pressed
if (lightMode == 0) { // if its off
lightMode = 1; // turn lights on!
}
else {
if (lightMode == 1) { // if its all-on
lightMode = 2; // make it blink!
}
else {
if (lightMode == 2) { // if its blinking
lightMode = 3; // make it wave!
}
else {
if (lightMode == 3) { // if its waving,
lightMode = 4;
}
else{
if (lightMode == 4){
lightMode =0;
} // turn light off!
}
}
}
}
}
buttonState = val; // save the new state in our variable
}
// Now do whatever the lightMode indicates
if (lightMode == 0) { // all-off
digitalWrite(led1Pin, LOW);
digitalWrite(led2Pin, LOW);
digitalWrite(led3Pin, LOW);
}
if (lightMode == 1) { // Blue On
digitalWrite(led1Pin, HIGH);
digitalWrite(led2Pin, LOW);
digitalWrite(led3Pin, LOW);
}
if (lightMode == 2) { // Blue off, Green On
digitalWrite(led1Pin, LOW);
digitalWrite(led2Pin, HIGH);
digitalWrite(led1Pin, LOW);
}
if (lightMode == 3) { // Red On Green Off
digitalWrite(led1Pin, LOW);
digitalWrite(led2Pin, LOW);
digitalWrite(led3Pin, HIGH);
}
if (lightMode == 4) { // Flame
analogWrite(led1Pin, random(120)+135);
analogWrite(led2Pin, random(120)+135);
analogWrite(led3Pin, random(120)+135);
delay(random(100));
}
}
}
It's simply that Serial is a set of functions that talk to the RX and TX pins via the inbuilt UART on the ATMega. There is no hardware serial support on the ATTiny85 so that function cannot work.
There is a software serial available for the Arduino-Tiny library if I recall correctly so the functionality can be achieved another way if you need it.
Depending on the particular ATTiny85 you're using there's a broad range of voltages which will be suitable.
[quote author=ATTiny85 datasheet http://www.atmel.com/Images/doc2586.pdf]Operating Voltage
– 1.8 - 5.5V for ATtiny25V/45V/85V
– 2.7 - 5.5V for ATtiny25/45/85[/quote]Any wall wart in the 3 to 5 Volt range will be a safe bet (and somewhat cheap, if you don't have one laying about from an old mobile phone or similar to repurpose).
Just remember if you use something lower than 5V you will need to adjust the size of the current limiting resistors you use for your LEDs down or they'll be dimmer (maybe not a bad thing for a night light, but best to test first). LEDcalc.com can help with the maths.
Yes, as I read it PB3 & PB4 are the inverted output of each other, so while they're both PWM they'll be the same as each other, only out of phase. This is a part of the datasheet that I get stuck in so I reserve the right to be wrong
Leg 1 Reset
Leg 2 PIN 3( Analog input 3)
Leg 3 PIN 4( Analog input 2)
Leg 4 GND
Leg 5 PIN 0 (PWM)
Leg 6 PIN 3 (PWM)
Leg 7 PIN 2 (Analog Input 1)
Leg 8 VCC
My pinout cross reference lists Leg 6 as pin1, which has been working in my sketches.
Am I missing something but how can leg2 and leg6 be pin3 in Arduino?
TomJ
Tumbleweed:
My pinout cross reference lists Leg 6 as pin1, which has been working in my sketches.
Am I missing something but how can leg2 and leg6 be pin3 in Arduino?
TomJ
Hi Tom
You're not missing anything, the info he had was a bit incomplete/wrong initially, then he started using this: