Test cable runs first and be wary of running 12 near 240 (they should NOT share the same conduit) crossing at 90deg is preferable.
Everything here is 230 Volts. I don't want that anymore.
If i make it 12 Volt i save energy and can power it one day with photo voltaic.
If you come to sell your house, will this effect the price? Will you want the availability of mains in the future.
If you have a ring main for the lighting, can you use the existing switch wires and place your 12V controllers above the lights, so effectively re-using the cables and not worrying about sending 12 over long distances? This would allow you to revert to 240V at any stage.
Edit:
My first test LED lamp is here.
There is something i forgot. They work with AC and DC and it doesn't matter
where you connect positive and negative. So there must be some kind of electronic inside the lamp.
Somebody know how they work? How does this effect the dimming circuit i need to build?
If i switch from "PWM 1" to "0" it really needs long until my multimeter goes down to 4,5V.
Sounds like you may have a capacitor in there.
As to "brightness" your eye's sensitivity may not see much difference between 50 & 100% Have you used a lux meter (digital camera exposure meter? 8) )
I meant the Highly Efficient 0-100% LED Dimmer; it's an interesting project, but is it necessary? You must be the judge of that. It is very easy to get carried away with specifications. I would imagine that one of your main criteria is long life and relative cheapness. It's akin to buying a hybrid car, I've driven a few, they are okay around town, they don't save the environment, they cost a lot to run and to purchase. The product needs to fit the requirements.
MrGlasspoole:
Selling the house my parents build stone by stone with there own hands - never ever
Lucky you, I'm envious
MrGlasspoole:
I have no lux meter.
But what about the 4.5Volt i always have?
Why does the Mosfet not totally turn off?
If your fet is partially on, then you may be seeing a small voltage, they require very little leakage before they start to conduct. Try disconnecting the gate from the port and tying the gate with a resistor and see if you get the same result.
My suggestion was to use a digital (SLR) in place of a LUX meter as a crude replacement. Illuminate a scene with your LED and check that the exposure changes as you continue to increase the PWM. Maybe your source voltage is too high?
You may need to play with the position of the illumination and objects in the scene to get a full range effect. - just an idea.
To see how "unreliable" (fabulous) your eye is in this situation, take an exposure reading indoors in a bright room and then try the same outdoors.
As to flicker, I would think that the 490K of the Arduino ought to be okay, I can't report that it has ever bothered me when playing with LEDs, But I have not illuminated a room. I have to say that VW tail-lights annoy me, I don't know what frequency they cycle at, but I find the light trails as I move my head distracting.... Maybe they are just flashbacks?
The Highly Efficient thing was just a idea in the beginning when i was reading around and looking for infos.
Now i just want to get the dimming working.
Hm, a resistor at the gate? I have the 4.5Volt at the LED even with the gate not connected to the Arduino.
Source voltage? You mean the 12Volt that go to the LED? The IRLU8726PBF is made for up to 30Volt.
I can find allot 220Volt MOSFET circuits but nothing on logic level MOSFET.
From my understanding there is no need for a driver if you use a logic level MOSFET and
you can connect it directly to the micro controller.
I have just an 15 year old 2MP digital camera. No need for a new one until i have the luck to visit Disney World
Hm, a resistor at the gate? I have the 4.5Volt at the LED even with the gate not connected to the Arduino.
To test. disconnect from the Arduino and tie the gate to ground using your pull-down resistor. You can short it to ground if you like. Check if you still have 4.5V
Source voltage? You mean the 12Volt that go to the LED? The IRLU8726PBF is made for up to 30Volt.
Sorry, that is fine, what I meant was do you have the correct limiting resistor for your LED for the voltage being supplied?
Are your grounds okay? Short, connected to a single point. Is your CAT6 shielded? and if so, is the grounding at a single point - it's not unusual for Radio2 to take control of your circuit If you have wires spanning the house, you will have quite a nice antennae going. Look out for the WOW! signal
Grounding the gate changes nothing.
There is no limiting resistor cause its a 12V LED. Its one of those you can swap with
the 12V halogen lamps in halogen systems: http://www.amazon.de/ersetzt-35Watt-Halogen-warmes-Kelvin/dp/B0076J5AHG/
They are really bright like 35Watt normal lamps and make a nice light.
The first LED i saw that really make sense when it comes to price<->power saving (amortization).
There is no CAT6 at the moment. Everything is short and on the breadboard
But when you talk about shielding. Would you always connect the shield to ground?
Both ends ore just one?
I use just shielded cable:
Stranded CAT.5E SF/UTP for switches and flow sensors.
Stranded CAT.6 S/STP for network.
Solid CAT.6 S/FTP AWG23 for 12V power to the LEDs and Arduinos.
Lappkabel UNITRONIC LiYCY 2x0,25mm2 where i have to spread the 12V: Catalogue
And i want to make a extra cable from the breaker box to my home stereo.
I want to use Lappkabel ÖLFLEX 120 CH 3x2,5mm2: Catalogue
But i'm not sure what to to with the shield on this 220Volt cable.
I'm no expert, but since MR16 lamps are designed to be compatible with halogen lamps their internal circuitry, by design, has to work in concert with transformers and dimmers made for halogen lamps. This compatibility requirement has led to proprietary solutions which may have important side-effects.
God damn. After removing the LED i still had 12Volt.
From 10 Mosfets i picket a broken one :0
So i did some testing now and the electronic in the LED makes problems.
Here are some measurement:
Monitor PWM: 1, Pin 6 Volts: 0.03
D6 = 0.02 Volt
LED = 0.00 Volt (lights up)
LED turned = 0.21 Volt (lights up)
no LED = 11.3 Volt
Monitor PWM: 36, Pin 6 Volts: 0.72
D6 = 0.71 Volt
LED = 2.85 Volt (lights up)
LED turned = 2.85 Volt (lights up)
no LED = 11.5 Volt
If i connect the LED directly to the 12 Volt power supply i have 12 Volt at the LED.
In the PWM circuit i have the funniest volts.
But i think its there cause there are to many factors with transformers and dimmers.
I have a 12 volt halogen electronic transformer that is dim able with "reverse phase control dimmer" and
"phase control dimmer". But here the dimmer is in front of the transformer and its AC.
I was thinking DC and PWM the whole time - maybe there is another way.
I mean if i feed less volt to the LED its darker.
Maybe AC instead of DC...
After thinking i cant open the LED without breaking it i have it open now.
The 3 LEDs are series-connected.
The electronic was sealed in some silicon.
Looks close to this ones: http://detail.china.alibaba.com/pic/914205741.html
Ok, i did some measuring as you can see in the attachment.
I cant figure out the driver circuit cause its to small.
But there is a R25 and 3R00 on the PCB.
If i look at the M7201 data sheet that would mean they drive the LEDs with 0.1 / 0,25? = 400mA
That is close to my measurement.
If the 0.25? and 3? resistors are parallel its right: 0.1 / 0.23? = 430mA
If i look at the CRI and Color temperature and everything i bet they are Cree XLamp XP-E High-Efficiency White LEDs. http://www.rapidonline.com/pdf/55-2568.pdf
But if the forward voltage is 3V, why do i measure 9V?
Shouldn't it be: 12V - 3 x 3V = 3V
So from all the reading around it looks like the driver needs to be near the LEDs.
So i need a third wire for PWM?
But how about the PWM cable length?
yea you need to connect pwm output to the adj pin as suggested on page 8-9 of the datasheet.
i dont think cable length does matter, as long its not something like half a meter. well you can calculate loss of voltage depending on cable length.
0.5 Meter?
It's a house. There are 5-10 meters...
I found this driver: http://www.leds.de/out/media/KSQ.pdf
And they write to make the cable from the supply not longer then 1,5 meters.
Or is it that they assume that power cables are always unshielded?
@lax123, i thank you that you want to help me. But that is basic stuff i know.
And this calculator shows what i don't understand. Why so big and short cables for LED's?
I read stuff like 0.75mm2 - 1.5mm2 on most sides.
But if you look at eldoLED POWERdrive they write 3 meters to the LEDs.
And they write 0.2mm2 per 1 ampere.
They also wrote somewhere that 6 meters is no problem with CAT cable and also wrote that
they have customers who made up to 50 meters.
What i can't find is a answerer to PWM over longer distance.
If i have a LED driver with PWM in - how long can i make the PWM line from the Arfuino
to the driver.
There is also the option to dim analog. This would change the color temperature a little.
But i can't see in the Cree datasheets what color temperature at which ampere.
They write color temperatures from 2600 to 4300 for the XP-E High-Efficiency White LEDs.
Damn is this LED stuff complicated when it comes to dimming.
I wish i had a oscilloscope