StripDuino

Forum 2005-2010 (read only) General Exhibition
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Thought i would submit this ultra low cost, stripped down strip-board Arduino Iv been playing about with tonight.

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Here are the Part list and plans:

7805 Voltage regulator

2x LEDs

2x 220 Ohm resistors

1 10k Ohm resistor

2x 10 uF capacitors

16 MHz clock crystal

2x 22 pF capacitors

2x .1 mfd capacitors

small momentary button

small amount of wire for jumpers

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And a Video of it running "Blink"

This was only started tonight, so would love to hear how other's would go about improving it, Im just working out a few options for ICSP and cutting up some strips of pins to make it a little more practical then having to solder your I/Os to the board.

If you want to make this make sure you refer to the Arduino Pin Map when hooking up your connections:

2

Nice job and great pictures.

There is one mistake on that schematic you worked from and an omission. The AREF pin should be left unconnected.

The omissions are lack of .1 mfd bypass capacitors to ground on the AVCC and VCC pins, that gives better noise filtering for the chip.

Lefty

3

Thanks Lefty, will disconnect the AREF pin, and add a couple of .1 mfd capacitors to ground on AVCC and VCC (and update all the photos and schematics) :slight_smile:

**.1 mfd capacitors added to above schismatics, and AREF pin disconnect **

4

Woot, I like the male pin idea! I've got a setup on a breadboard right now, pretty much the same setup!

I'm curious though, Retrolefty, what's the difference between connecting Aref and, well, not? (I'm fairly new, so sorry if this seems ignorant:D)
I followed the tutorial Tom Igoe made and in the breadboard setup he used, he connected the Aref to power.
http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/Tutorials/ArduinoBreadboard

But regardless! Looking good Noob (haha:D) Your solder job looks pretty good, I need to practice more! Good job!:smiley:

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I'm curious though, Retrolefty, what's the difference between connecting Aref and, well, not?

It's somewhat technical and one really needs to read the AVR data sheet as the whole analog reference section is a little complex but has a lot of flexibility. Basically the way the Arduino core software sets up analog reference voltage could result in damage if you have +5vdc wire to the AREF pin and execute the wrong internal command changing the reference set-up. Bottom line, leave AREF disconnected unless you have researched it's proper use.

Lefty

6

This is really nice, I will definitely be following this approach. Thanks for sharing!

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more detailed instructions on http://www.instructables.com/id/Stripboard-Arduino/

8

Nice job, I also run similar format stripboad layouts so as to keep my Duemilanove ready for quick prototyping or to use when trying some electronically 'dubious' setups. :-?

I'll mention that to add programming capability to the stripboard is dead easy (and cheap) as per http://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/StandaloneAssembly using a hex inverter and db9 connector. :wink:

9

I would be very careful with that interface (actually I would never use it!). It's a very old posting and has errors (that are mentioned in it) and omissons (like no power wiring shown for the hex invertor chip) and requires a RS-232 comm port which many modern PCs don't provide anymore.

A serial interface based on a MAX232 type RS-232 to TTL convertor is much more commonly used these days, if you indeed have a RS-232 comm port on your PC. There are also plently of USB to TTL convertor cables or modules that make it very simple to add programming capablility to your standalone set-up, like this example:

http://store.fundamentallogic.com/ecom/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=6&products_id=31

Lefty

10

I like this idea a lot and am very impressed with the amount of detail you've shown :sunglasses:

11

For the decoupling .1mfd capacitors, should one use electrolytic or ceramic?

12

For the decoupling .1mfd capacitors, should one use electrolytic or ceramic?

I use a couple of little ceramic :slight_smile:

13

thx man.

14

Thats looks fantastic!

whats the cost? do you sell these as a kit? so i can have a play.

thanks jason

15

many thanks n00b

i will be in touch soon once i have had a play

jason

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n00b - I've taken the liberty of dumping your list on the playground page I started back in Feb for UK suppliers of parts for a standalone Arduino : Arduino Playground - UKStandaloneParts

Maybe someone (maybe me) will come along and tidy it up.

Andrew

17

Thanks Andrew, would be really good if someone could clean it up as im sure it could be shrunk down a lot more :slight_smile:

(also added a ICSP on the http://www.instructables.com/id/Stripboard-Arduino/ page)

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18

Shouldn't the DIL socket be 28 Pin rather than the 24 pin mentioned and the 40 pin illustrated ? :wink:

19

Well spotted pluggy, (thought for a second id used the wrong dil on the plans!!!)

Here is a brake down of how much the components would cost from there (but you could salvage most of them from old electronics)

1x Atmel ATMega168 = £2.65
1x Stipboard = 72p
1x 7805 Voltage regulator = 26p
2x LEDs = 16p
2x 220 Ohm resistors = 8p
1x 10k Ohm resistor = 4p
2x 10 uF capacitors = 12p
1x 16 MHz clock crystal = 45p
2x 22 pF capacitors = 10p
2x .1 mfd capacitors = 10p
1x small momentary button = 18p
Total = £5.94

Optional extras
Header Strip = 26p (for 36)

Single Row Sockets = 56p (for 25)

28-pin DIL sockets = 16p

PP3 Battery Clip = 15p

20

Very very nice for cheapo versions

I just wanted to note something.
On your component image, you are marking the capacitors with a circle. Since these are electrolytic, you should mark them with a strike through line to indicate their polarity. I had to check your actual board to be able to check the polarity fast.

And just an idea.
How about some "shields" on strip board as well? :smiley:
You already have the male headers.
You just need to design some removable daughterboards with female headers on their down side.
f.e. for the serial to usb programmer.