ATMEGA 1284p and I2C LCD Woes

Yes, I quite agree that you can not read it in the dark. In the dark, you do not need a very bright backlight.

Just experiment with different series resistors untill you get a reasonable legibility. Then you can replace the SMD on the main LCD board.

It is the blue displays that are pretty unreadable in bright sunlight. And completely unreadable without any backlight.

David.