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Topic: DIYino - an Arduino compatible board for prop electronics (Read 51011 times) previous topic - next topic

Void269

chicokiri, Protonerd is on vacation until September 10th so it will be sometime before he will be able to ship them out. Just FYI.

Protonerd

Good news, the first Run of the Stardust arrived and currently undergoing rigorous tests and quality checks.

The Stardust board costs 54 EUR + 6 EUR shipping.
If you order 5+ boards, price is reduced to 49 EUR/board + free shipping.
Payment is via PayPal to kun.andras@yahoo.de
If paying for services, add +3.9% for fees.
Please indicate following items in the comment field along with your payment:
- your name
- shipping address
- Forum nickname, and also Forum name (i.e. Arduino)
- "Stardust B" if you want to build a blaster, to be able to tell these orders apart from lightsaber prop orders ("Stardust LS")

I will handle orders in the order they come in. Boards are shipped out always on Saturdays, I can guarantee shipping in same week if payment arrived by Thursday.





By buying a board you confirm to have read the User Manual and understood the specification (see Stardust User Manual ).

BertkeTech1

This is awesome Protonerd! I've been looking at a way to build my own arduino lightsaber for some years now and I thought I had it all figured out. I had planned on using an arduino nano, a MPU6050, and a Mini DFplayer. Thanks to you, now I can get all of this is one! I do have a couple questions though. To change blade colors in a smooth transition, I had planned on reading the value of a potentiometer with an analog pin. I went through your Stardust User Manual, and I was wondering if this would be possible with the stardust? I did not see any Analog Input pins, but was wondering if I could use the SDA or the SCL pins? If anyone could help me out I would appreciate it. Thanks!

Protonerd

The Stardust has one analog input pin as auxiliary pin, i.e. it's not situated at the board peripherie but with a smaller thru hole in the middle of the board. But you can use it. SDA and SCL on the other hand cannot be used for anything else than I2C, as they are also connected to the MPU. I break them out because for some applications you might want to use a small OLED display which also work with I2C.

As to your idea to change color smoothly with a potentiometer, did you look at my video showing the Gravity Color Mix feature? Would that be sufficient for color mixing or do you have something else in mind?

dejordzta

Hi Protonerd!

Just sent a payment for one of your Startburst LS boards.

Protonerd


There are still Stardust boards available, both for blasters and for lightsabers.

To recognize that most of the guys buying my boards are from the US I decided to update the pricing to reflect this.
Therefore starting from now buyers from US will get the Startdust board for $54 (instead of 54 EUR). Shipping is $6.

All other conditions remain the same.

Soulbp

This may be already answered, but they come with the LOS code already loaded?

Soulbp

I just read the manual, I see that it is not but has all the links etc.. I think if there is stock available I may order two of these in the next week.

Protonerd

Stock is still available.

I even have a promotion until the new movie comes out for US costumers, same price as before but in $ and not in EUR. Make use of it, special price is only for limited time and volume.

As to including code on the boards: in fact I'm contemplating it now. I will probably offer pre-loaded boards (free fonts and FX-SaberOS) in future if I get demand for it. Price tag estimate is +15EUR. Of course pre-loaded boards can still be updated with newer code versions, but users can quick-start with them if under time pressure to make a prop.

Soulbp

I got my boards and did the initial test. Should I use lightsaber-osgravity blend or fxsabers-os? rgb star led, single button is my current intention.

Protonerd

I got my boards and did the initial test. Should I use lightsaber-osgravity blend or fxsabers-os? rgb star led, single button is my current intention.
Go for FX-SaberOS from now on.

jesjhoward

Proto, I'm having a bit of an issue. I have my two boards. By connecting the 5V and Bat+ pins I am able to get one of them flashed with the software, but unable to get to the point where I can transfer files to it. I've tried all of the options in the manual to no avail. The other board, I cannot even get to the flashing point. The red led comes on and stays on, and will not get assigned a COM port. Any help? Thanks!

Protonerd

Proto, I'm having a bit of an issue. I have my two boards. By connecting the 5V and Bat+ pins I am able to get one of them flashed with the software, but unable to get to the point where I can transfer files to it. I've tried all of the options in the manual to no avail. The other board, I cannot even get to the flashing point. The red led comes on and stays on, and will not get assigned a COM port. Any help? Thanks!
I do extensive testing of the boards before they got delivered to customers. At the time of the delivery I can vouch for them. But as with all electronic boards, they are delicate items to be handled with care.

I started to give people advice to only try one of their boards at a time if they ordered multiple ones, and get in touch with me if it does not work before experimenting with the others. Reason is simple: I had multiple cases of users bricking all their boards in a matter of a few minutes, making the same mistake on all of them before getting in contact with me.

Please send me pictures of your boards as PN.
I can just hope that your boards are still not bricked. The one which you could flash, what do you mean you cannot transfer files? Did you wire up the USB breakout board or did you short the USb signals on-board?
As for the 2nd board, did you try to connect the USB via the on-board USB port or via the breakout? As I mention in the User Manual, micro-USB ports are not as mechanically robust as mini-USB ports, therefore you have to plug in the USB cable carefully. Ramming in the port can easily dislocate the port, rendering it useless or even shorting signals. Just some ideas to start with.

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