[Solved] Help with ATSAM3X8E (Due barebones)

Graynomad:
I can post the schematics it you think that will help, I think I did the same as you but you may spot something.


Rob

Yes, please :p.. didn't find a lot of those online for the Sam uC, nothing barebone atleast..

Edit: I'm designing a board that will attach to the SAM3X8E breakout. I will post a schematic and board files when I'm finished and I would be more than happy if the design experts here give me a lot of criticism =P.

I got the same problem here :(. Using the same "minimal" Circuit.

tsaG:
I got the same problem here :(. Using the same "minimal" Circuit.

Do you have everything connected exactly as the schematic that I posted above? It'll be nice if you share what you did and maybe a schematic..

I think the problem is noise related. Noise == problems with the bootloader (according to the datasheet). And I believe the breadboard environment is a very noisy one. That's why I'm moving this to a PCB instead. I'll still try to keep it at minimum (component-wise).. I'm half-way in the design.. I'll probably have something on friday/saturday...

For all that still want to go the breadboard way, try checking your connections with this check list from atmel. http://www.atmel.com/Images/doc6260.pdf

It's not specifically for the SAM3X8E, but still the same (minimum) passive components for both SAM3X8E and SAM7X**..

Edit: You kind of miss the AVR uC's.. They have worked for me even in the harshest environments!
Edit2: Here is a youtube clip of a guy who I believe etched his own PCB for the SAM7S64. I believe it's an Atmel EK (clone)..and as you see, he isn't cheap on capacitors =P..
ARM SAM BA test - YouTube,

Yeah, I saw that document after I built my circuit :smiley:
Ill try to create my circuit like the "3.3V and 1.8V Dual Power Supply Schematic Example" tomorrow and see how it goes. Im planning to replace the old Atmega Chips with this one but, as you already mentioned, the Chip is very critical and stubborn :smiley:

Here's page 1 of my schematic

http://www.robgray.com/temp/SAM3U-schem.pdf

Probably a lot of stuff you aren't interested in and the pin numbers will be different because its the 3U but the pin names are the same.


Rob

Graynomad:
Here's page 1 of my schematic

http://www.robgray.com/temp/SAM3U-schem.pdf

Probably a lot of stuff you aren't interested in and the pin numbers will be different because its the 3U but the pin names are the same.


Rob

Thanks for sharing.. Ya, it's the 99% equivalent with how I connected eveything.. Oh, well... I'll post my board soon.. And for the trouble of the etching process I hope it works.. I'll update this thread when I'm done...

tsaG:
Yeah, I saw that document after I built my circuit :smiley:
Ill try to create my circuit like the "3.3V and 1.8V Dual Power Supply Schematic Example" tomorrow and see how it goes. Im planning to replace the old Atmega Chips with this one but, as you already mentioned, the Chip is very critical and stubborn :smiley:

I doubt that it'll work on a breadboard, but I hope it does.. Keep us posted!

AND DON"T FORGET the by-passes... much better to have empty places than 'Hangies"... and it took me a lot of "Hangies" before I learned and a lot of 'Magic Blue Smoke" Too. I sincerely wish it didn't smell so bad, though.

Bob

Docedison:
AND DON"T FORGET the by-passes... much better to have empty places than 'Hangies"... and it took me a lot of "Hangies" before I learned and a lot of 'Magic Blue Smoke" Too. I sincerely wish it didn't smell so bad, though.

Bob

Well, I promise to not be cheap on the by-pass caps =P.. What do you mean by empty places and hangies (sorry I'm a chemical engineer, I don't always get the electrical slang language =P).. Well I got the "magical BLACK smoke" one time when I designed a Leonardo clone under one hour =P (Pressing the reset button shorted the circuit, this happened because I misplaced the 10K pull-up resistor)...

I'm the type that hate waiting, so I made a rather fast design just to get the discussion going..

Here are the files:

schematic: https://dl.dropbox.com/u/74389175/BaselM3Proto/schematic.png
Board: https://dl.dropbox.com/u/74389175/BaselM3Proto/board.png
144TQFP Breakout with Sam3x8e (TOP): https://dl.dropbox.com/u/74389175/BaselM3Proto/IMAG0453.jpg
144TQFP Breakout with Sam3x8e (BOTTOM): https://dl.dropbox.com/u/74389175/BaselM3Proto/IMAG0454.jpg
Definitions for pins on breakout and Sam3x8e: https://dl.dropbox.com/u/74389175/BaselM3Proto/SAM3X8E%20pinout.pdf

So something I thought about is the crystals. I know that it's important that the crystals are (physically)near the uC.. But how about the actual electrical connection to the uC???? Because if you look at the 12MHz crystal on the board, it's placed so that the electrical connection is as optimal as possible, but that doesn't mean that it's (physically) near the uC..

The breakout will be mounted on top of this board.. Will this work, or will this introduce another type (frequency) of noise to the board?

An "Empty place" is just that, a part footprint not populated it can be a by-pass, sometimes a jumper but mostly for the capacitors you MIGHT need... Possibly.
Don't be stingy on by-pass caps. They are like "Magic Bullets" for weird problems AND you don't "Have" to use the pads and they are virtually free.
Finally "Hangies" are the parts added, usually "Hanging" in air. I've done my share...
cuts and jumpers... Too
with kynar wire-wrap wire... make the insulation the same color as the solder mask and that way the "Changes" can become 'nearly' invisible.

Bob

Docedison:
An "Empty place" is just that, a part footprint not populated it can be a by-pass, sometimes a jumper but mostly for the capacitors you MIGHT need... Possibly.
Don't be stingy on by-pass caps. They are like "Magic Bullets" for weird problems AND you don't "Have" to use the pads and they are virtually free.
Finally "Hangies" are the parts added, usually "Hanging" in air. I've done my share...
cuts and jumpers... Too
with kynar wire-wrap wire... make the insulation the same color as the solder mask and that way the "Changes" can become 'nearly' invisible.

Bob

Thank you for the explanation =)...

Well I didn't get any feedback on the previous design so I went ahead and made the thing.. Just finished etching.. I'll have it soldered and tested by tomorrow I hope (don't have any time today).. Here is some pictures for the interested ..

Front: https://dl.dropbox.com/u/74389175/IMAG0456.jpg
Back: https://dl.dropbox.com/u/74389175/IMAG0455.jpg

Sorry, I meant to look at those files but forgot.

The schematic is too hard to check properly without spending ages matching pin numbers so I'll give that a miss.

Your general board layout looks good, tracks are at strange angles though but that's mostly an aesthetic thing.

I'm not that experienced with laying out high-speed traces but the USB lines are supposed to be of equal length and IIRC impedance matched to 50R. I may be wrong and I have in fact had boards work without much care taken with the D+ and D- signals using an FTDI chip. But I think that chip is just low speed USB, the SAM does high-speed as well doesn't it?

Your lengths look reasonable, but you have sharp corners and vias, all of which are bad for high speed signals.

If you look at the Due traces they are matched,all on the top layer and no vias. Like I said though I don't now how important it is.

So I'll be interested to see if the USB works, especially through all the connectors.

Also I can't find R7 and R8 on the PCB. Can you post the Eagle design file?


Rob

Graynomad:
Sorry, I meant to look at those files but forgot.

The schematic is too hard to check properly without spending ages matching pin numbers so I'll give that a miss.

Your general board layout looks good, tracks are at strange angles though but that's mostly an aesthetic thing.

I'm not that experienced with laying out high-speed traces but the USB lines are supposed to be of equal length and IIRC impedance matched to 50R. I may be wrong and I have in fact had boards work without much care taken with the D+ and D- signals using an FTDI chip. But I think that chip is just low speed USB, the SAM does high-speed as well doesn't it?

Your lengths look reasonable, but you have sharp corners and vias, all of which are bad for high speed signals.

If you look at the Due traces they are matched,all on the top layer and no vias. Like I said though I don't now how important it is.

So I'll be interested to see if the USB works, especially through all the connectors.

Also I can't find R7 and R8 on the PCB. Can you post the Eagle design file?


Rob

Your feedback is great! Didn't think about the "equal length" thingy for the USB part. I myself don't have nor use high speed USB yet. I know that it's supported by the SAM, but I believe that it will work if nothing is wrong with the full USB lines. My home brewed leonardo dosen't have equal USB length signals and it works pretty good (it's not high speed, and nothing is wrong with the USB lines). I only have three vias. Two for the high speed USB part and one for a ground connection. R7 and R8 are near the breakout-board connectors.

I made this pretty quick and it's not a final design. Just a way to move this from a breadboard to a PCB for testing. So the routing is pretty "sh*tty" i know, but look at it from the bright side, there is only a few 90 degree angled connections =P!

Here's the schematic and board file:

Schematic: https://dl.dropbox.com/u/74389175/BaselM3Proto/BaselsM3ProtoV1.0.sch
Board: https://dl.dropbox.com/u/74389175/BaselM3Proto/BaselsM3ProtoV1.0.brd

Edit: Yes, your pretty much right about the high speed USB. I found a document from Atmel stating pretty much what you told me. Here is a link to the pdf, http://www.atmel.com/Images/doc32122.pdf. Well all I have now is hope that it works.

So, does it work? :slight_smile:

I am wondering if your chip has not gone through the erase sequence, which is required to get into the bootloader. The ERASE pin needs to be high during reset and held high for 220ms.

I found with SAM7S my chip could get into a "bricked" state, and doing the erase procedure would recover it, sometimes took more than one go to do it.

To all of you, yes it works now :D:D:D:D.. It was probably noise from the breadboard. After two hours of trying to fit the break out (made wrong measurements) board to my newly soldered board it's finally working.

Here is some pictures as proof =P:

Board soldered (Front): https://dl.dropbox.com/u/74389175/BaselM3Proto/IMAG0457.jpg
Board soldered (Back): https://dl.dropbox.com/u/74389175/BaselM3Proto/IMAG0458.jpg

Breakout board attached to the board (Front): https://dl.dropbox.com/u/74389175/BaselM3Proto/IMAG0461.jpg

When you attach the USB the first time, you need the drivers delivered with SAM-BA. After installing the drivers you should get the following: https://dl.dropbox.com/u/74389175/BaselM3Proto/sam_ba_com.png

Then open Arduino IDE and upload the blink sketch. The board will restart as Arduino Due (you'll need to install the arduino due drivers that comes with the arduino IDE). After install you should get the following: https://dl.dropbox.com/u/74389175/BaselM3Proto/arduino_blink.png.

If you've got any questions hit me! =P

And by the way I've changed a small thing in the schematic so here is the updated version:

Schematic: https://dl.dropbox.com/u/74389175/BaselM3Proto/BaselsM3ProtoV1.0.sch
Board: https://dl.dropbox.com/u/74389175/BaselM3Proto/BaselsM3ProtoV1.0.brd

1 Like

Good job sticking with the project until you got it working!

cyclegadget:
Good job sticking with the project until you got it working!

Thanks =D.. Well I've learned a lot from this. Mainly that the SAM chip needs a lot of passive components in order to work.. It's not as simple as the 328p where you only need a crystal, power, a couple of caps/resistors and your up and running...

Still it would be interesting to strip components (one by one) from the board until it stops working, and by this coming down to a "true" bare minimum =P.

Yes well done and thanks for persevering with this.

It will be interesting to see what the absolute bare minimum is so let us know if you do that.


Rob