TiboJ:
If I use Nootropic Design Video Experimenter shield on my Arduino, will I be able to add GPS function to the Arduino?
I only suggested the Nootropic VE as what to look for; because it utilizes the TVOut library, it actually uses up a -ton- of RAM on the Arduino (and it won't work with a Mega); there are other devices out there that would probably be a better fit for your application, that would be more "standalone", in that they use their own on-board microcontroller or whatnot to work (look up "microcontroller", "video overlay", "OSD", "on-screen display", "arduino" to find other such devices).
Alternatively, use the Nootropic VE with it's own Arduino, and communicate with that Arduino via serial or SPI (at this point, you should use SPI, with the WT board as the master, and your other Arduinos as slaves with their own addresses).
Other than the memory usage, your only worry would then be what pins it needs, etc; if those interfere with anything else you plan to use and you can't use substitutes, then it probably won't work well.
Seems that wifi can have excellent range! I will research this, because this will maybe be better then 2.4Ghz.
edit:
I also found the xbee module, and it can reach a range of 1500m outdoor, and uses 2.4Ghz.
Will the xbee module with 2.4Ghz have the same problems with obstacles as the 2.4Ghz transmitter has?
Or does the xbee use the special wifi technology, that eliminates the problem? http://www.digiwireless-solutions.com/Bizit/store/product.php?id_product=186
The transmitter is a Futaba T6EX 2.4ghz and the receiver is also from futaba and 2.4ghz.
What could be the reason that I can't let the wild thumper go to the left?
If I change the Dual Rate on the transmitter to 0%, then the wild thumper can't even turn to the right...
I just tested the range of the UGV in a densely forested area, and it all did it right. The range that I just tested was about 100m.
After that, I tested the range at the other side of my house, and still everything did it good.
I'll do some larger obstacle range tests soon, and see what the results are.
When I drive over the grass in my garden, and I turn left or right, then the Wild Thumper stops working;
the control over it has gone, and I need to disconnect and reconnect the battery to make it work again.
The Wild Thumper Motor Controller and my receiver doesn't go off, I just lose controls.
Is this because my 8.4V 4600mAh NiMh battery is to weak? Should a LiPo battery fix this problem?
The turning is by turning the wheels in opposite direction. So this problem only happens when I spin, but not when making a smooth turn.
And, the spinning works on flat surfaces. It only has problems on grass and other not-flat surfaces.
Can someone help me, please?
EDIT: I just saw that when the controls stop working, the battery led went off(led 5) on the WP motor controller. So it has probably something to do with the battery. I've tried about 5 different NiMh battery's, and all no luck.
Yes, at this time the controller shuts down the wild thumper if the voltage is around 6.3V.
Probably its the voltage drop of the wires and tamiya connectors that causes the controller to think the battery is at 6.3V.
I'll put some deans connectors and a lipo battery on it, instead of the tamiya connectors with a nimh battery.
Hi,
Another thing to look into is 'thermal shutdown', its 47 degrees in Dubai today and my ESCs are shutting down. This is a safety mechanism built into them which is designed to shut them down if the motors are stalled and too much heat builds up as a result.
In your case grass and particularly counter rotating on grass will put a lot of strain on whatever is driving the motors, if there is a thermal shutdown circuit it might be getting triggered.
In your case grass and particularly counter rotating on grass will put a lot of strain on whatever is driving the motors, if there is a thermal shutdown circuit it might be getting triggered.
The controller has 2 fuses, but they don't burned out. I think there isn't any thermal circuit.
Add a fan
It already has a heatsink. And the heat is not the problem I think, because the wild thumper controller and wires aren't hot when it shuts down
Cut your grass !
It's already cut and very short, so that isn't the problem.
It is an all-terrain vehicle But probably other tires will help alot.
Okay I did a few more tests today, and it is not only on the grass, but just always when the wild thumper get's 'resistance'.
With resistance I mean things like hills, turning on a carpet, going fast forward and backward,... so it's not just by turning.
I'll replace the tamiya's with deans when I receive my lipo battery, and lower the safety voltage at the controller.
I just tested a 9,6V 1600mAh battery, and that worked like a charm. All my 8.4V batteries does not work with the Wild Thumper, although, it works, but it can't spin on carpet, etc..., like I said in my previous post.
It was also very remarkable that the Wild Thumper drove much more powerfull and faster.
I'll lower my safety voltage and see what that does.
That bodyshell looks nice, and I'll do something 'military style' in the future.
First I'm going to tweak the fpv performance, and then I'll start with the extra things.
Very cool TiboJ. I have just started working on a wild thumper project too except I am using the 4 wheel version with 75:1 motors. I am also using the WT Robot Controller. I have a Spectrum DXi6 radio.
This is also very new to me. I noticed you were going to add a pan and tilt unit at some time. Have you done that? I purchased the Lynxmotion unit. (http://www.lynxmotion.com/p-707-micro-pan-and-tilt-kit-black.aspx). I am struggling on how to control (code) the PT.
I like the switch method that Chargrin noted:
Chagrin:
Yes, it would be possible to utilize a switch to tell your Rover that the joysticks (speed and turn signals) control the camera. This would require additional programming on your part; you should look at the example code for the Wild Thumper Controller and make sure you understand it. in the RCMode() function you'll see it reading the speed/turn channels and here is where you'd have it read an additional channel to determine if those readings are for the camera or the wheel motors.
I'd suggest you also set the Rover's speed to zero whenever it detects you've flipped your switch to camera control.
How did you connect yours and can you share your code? Thanks!