Tricks of the trade - Connecting projects to the Arduino boards 'reusably'

Hello hello,

I was wondering what sort of insider "tricks of the trade" some of you might have.

Particularly right now, I'm working on two (my first two ;)) projects, and would rather not buy a second Uno, but was curious as to what methods you might be using to quickly connect and disconnect a semi-permanent breadboard mess of experimental components to an Arduino.

I was thinking of just having multiple small (or large) breadboards that bring all their pin and power leads to a single pin-header, then I can simply connect and disconnect a board without too much stress.

What sort of connectors? I'm not thinking Mega here with dozens of pins, there will probably only be in the order of 8-16 pins to deal with.

What are the black connectors called like used on the Arduino board, and the bottom of Shields? I think they might be cool if I can fix the wires into them.

What are the black connectors called like used on the Arduino board,

0.1" single row header pins.
I just use them, there are some photos of this on this project:-
http://www.thebox.myzen.co.uk/Hardware/Crazy_People.html

Cool - I'll pick up some of those and have a go.

Cylindric:
I was thinking of just having multiple small (or large) breadboards that bring all their pin and power leads to a single pin-header, then I can simply connect and disconnect a board without too much stress.

Would this work? Phi-connect | LiuDr Electronic Solutions LLC Official Blog

The easy way is to use a Bare Bones Board, Really Bare Bones Board, or Boarduino type clone, they plug into the breadboard directly.
The Bare Bones Board is my favorite, moderndevice.com sells 'em.

My vote also goes to the boarduino from Adafruit. You can also build your own so you can tailor it to all your needs. About a year ago I did something like this(attached) with all the pins coming off on one side in a single line. Easy to use and consumes very little breadboard space. I have since modified its power supply and a smaller board.

What's connected at the circled area near A1? Is that for a resonator?

CrossRoads:
What's connected at the circled area near A1? Is that for a resonator?

Yes, I have since replaced it with an SMD part as it sticks out a little bit.

Did you make it easy to connect something like an FTDI Basic for easy downloading? Or does one just connect to the appropriate pins once plugged in the breadboard using flying leads off the USB/RS232 adapter?

CrossRoads:
Did you make it easy to connect something like an FTDI Basic for easy downloading? Or does one just connect to the appropriate pins once plugged in the breadboard using flying leads off the USB/RS232 adapter?

I have always used the ICSP for my projects but I guess if needed a 6 pin header can be placed on the board(or as you suggested using the breadboard). I actually gave it a name when I designed it. SAduino, short for Side Action Arduino. :slight_smile:

I'll look for the redesigned board files for those whore are interested, but the design is basic and straight forward.

I had a little fun mimicking a Side-uino design using Duemilanove kind of parts, and watch Eagle go thru its paces laying it out.
Maybe will help it out a little tomorrow and neaten it up some.

Nice!

Maybe we could spin this off as a community designed yet another arduino clone. I know the form factor works well because of its thin breadboard foot print

I want to take a shot at putting the DIP part in there, give folks a chance to recover when they damage the 328.
Think I just need to move the big cap down under the regulator to make room.

Long live the DIP package. Oh and leave room for socket mounting the 328 8)

That's what I was thinking.

DIP sounds good since this will probably see burned chips here and there.

We could use a ceramic chip for the caps 22uf/25v(1210) x2 , I have a ton of those and they are pretty cheap. Lets give it a shot and compare notes.

Ok, I've got a DIP version all layed out with just a single via, ICSP, and FTDI connector. Run from Vin thru unfused 5v regulator, or bypass regulator with +5v directly.
Any thoughts?
Needs some board labeling work still.

"ceramic chip for the caps 22uf/25v(1210) x2 "
Send the eagle reference for that, should be easy to add in.
100uF on regulator output does seem a little overkill here.

Well I was just expecting "lol - use wires", but this'll do too :smiley:

Not to rain on anybodies parade, but that's what the BBB is:


It has a FTDI connector too, and a pair of pins that go down into the power rail so you don't have to jumper power into it.