240VAC, splitting up

The arduino is unlikely to draw anything close to 1.8 amps, but that's what mouser electronics has that looks to fit the bill. Perhaps arduino and 1 pump on h1, actuators and other pump on h2? How much wiggle room do I have in balancing the load?

Not critical, just make sure large 120vac current devices like pumps are balanced between the two H1&2 buses. The arduino's power supply is too insignificant to the task of load balancing.

I'm assuming I can use the same ground for the 240VAC and the 120VAC, is that correct?

Yes there is only one ground system that originates at the centertap of the electric pole transformer's secondary winding center tap and the wired to a ground rod near your service entry and wired to a ground bus in your service distribution panel, and inside the panel the neutral bus is there wired to the ground bus. Every circuit cable leaving your service panel to elsewhere in your home has three wires in the cable, either a Hot, neutral, and ground wire for 120vac circuit loads or H1,H2 and ground for 240vac loads. So just be clear that a nuetral wire is at ground potential but is designed to carry current in normal operation. A ground wire to a outlet is a safety wire and is designed to carry current only during fault conditions.

Also, neutral wires should be able to use the same distributor block, regardless if they feed to a 120VAC or 240VAC receptacle, right?

??? There is no neutral wire in a 240vac circuit 3 wire cable from the panel to a outlet, H1,H2, and a ground wire.

I suspect your trying to be able to power both 240vac loads and 120vac loads from a single multi-wire cable going from your service panel to wire to both 120vac and 240vac loads? Not sure that is up to code. It is usually more common that 120vac loads and 240vac loads are feed from separate cables going from the panel to the outlets.

Lefty

I was going with a 4 prong plug and receptacle, so the wires are h1, h2, neutral, and ground. That is the input to the control box. From here, I was going to wire to separate h1, h2, neutral, and ground distribution terminals (I believe you termed them a bus).
Since the receptacle is rated for 50 amps, and the max current I would pull if everything is on at once is 43.4 amps, I think I'm within the limits of what is acceptable, right?

From these distribution terminals:
h1, neutral, and ground > pump one (relay on h1 to 15 amp, 3 prong, standard 120v receptacle)
h2, neutral and ground > pump two (relay on h2 to 15 amp, 3 prong, standard 120v receptacle)
h1, h2, ground > heating element 1 (relay on h1, relay on h2 to 30 amp, 3 prong dryer receptacle)
h1, h2, ground > heating element 2 (relay h1, relay on h2 to 30 amp, 3 prong dryer receptacle)
h1, neutral, and ground > arduino power supply
h2, neutral and ground > actuator power supply

Does that look right? I would rather feed the box once, but will defer to experience if what I'm looking to do isn't going to work the way I anticipated. I want to go with two relays for each heating element so that when power is cut off, it is really cut off. If the arduino is programmed to send a signal to shut off both relays to a heating element, I assume this has to be done on separate pins.

He needs a 1Ph 4 wire recepticle and plug since he wants 120/240 service. It will need SO4 wire, red/black are L1/L2, white neutral and green is chassis ground.

If your power supplies support 208/240, wire them as such. the pumps will tolerate modest line imbalances.

These are the power supplies:

It looks like they do support 208/240, in which case I should wire each with h1/h2/ground instead of h1/neutral/ground and h2/neutral/ground?

As of yet, I do not have the distribution terminals. I am very open to suggestions. I've been looking at mouser and grainger for something that will work, but haven't found anything that jumps out at me as being an obvious choice.

You probably need to go to a home improvement store and get a good wiring book, or hire a commercial electrician to wire your panels and drops (especially if there is any "commercial" aspect of your operation).

Its all a matter of knowing what to ask for.

I've already got the receptacles. I need distribution blocks.

I hope you have space for the breakers. Specially the heaters. For safety, I recommend a seperated breaker for : pump 1, pump 2, heater 1 and heater 1. The PSU for the Ardiuno and the actuanator are not critical regarding the current use.

Let me explain this way...

  1. Coffee Maker
  2. Microwave Oven
  3. Toaster
  4. Blender

Add them ( all turn on ) = Pouf !!! Breaker goes !!! <--- That why.

100 amp outdoor panel 16 breaker capacity.

Yea, I was going to hook the unit up to a 60 amp breaker.

Any suggestions on distribution blocks? Still looking for those...

Distribution connections are done at the bussbars, breakers, and contactors.. If further interconnects required use DIN mounted pheonix blocks.

Think this will work to split power from the input receptacle to the various loads? http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/39910-0106/?qs=QQJxVsr8EGadqRk8HMoGrw%3D%3D

It would if you are making a PCB, but for point to point wiring use a DIN Mount terminal block or 600V rated cinch blocks, such as:

available in various styles. If you use the open back ones(non 600VAC rated) you must place an insulator behind the barrier strip.

Hmmm. It seems with those, each terminal is isolated. i.e. I couldn't attach a wire from the power in receptacle to the block, and then wire out to each load from there. I was figuring that I would need a total of 4 distribution blocks (h1, h2, neutral, ground) to keep from an unruly mess of wires.

They sell cinch block jumpers....

If i follow what you are wanting to do, I would recommend a 2-pole 60A breaker in your main panel. Appropriately sized wire to the desired location, terminated in a load center. Similar to this, but you'll need a total of 6 spaces http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/SQUARE-D-Homeline-174-Load-Center-1D512
Install properly sized breakers to feed each load. This will properly protect your equipment. The problem with just a distribution block is if one piece of equipment were to short or draw excess current, it would need to draw enough to trip the 60A breaker protecting all of it, each component could now be protected with an individual breaker. Do not install the neutral bonding screw in the load center. From the load center you could then use a 15A breaker with 14awg THHN to your power supply, and so on. Everything stays protected, you stay within code.

a_m, that makes great sense. I think i would smell it if one of the pumps was drawing 60 amps, but this looks to be a much better solution to distributing power, while preventing massive current draws. Thank you.