10 RGB leds - all doing the same

what should i get a common cathode or anode?

Since it is easier to use NPN transistors between Cathode and Ground you want Common Anode. That way you can separate the Red, Green, and Blue Cathodes and use one transistor per color.

Can you explain me why do i need transistors?

Arduino pins can supply AT MOST 40 mA. Each of your color channels will draw about 200 mA. The transistor allows a small current from the Arduino (< 40 mA) to switch a large current from the power supply (~200 mA).

I only want 10 leds.
Yes. 10 RGB LEDs. Inside those are 10 Red, 10 Green, and 10 Blue. That makes 30. Just because they are in a single package doesn't mean they don't each require about 20 mA. If you want to think of them as single units then each one will draw about 60 mA. 60 * 10 = 600 mA. Same answer either way.

ok, i read you reply like 10 times - im starting to get the idea you meant.

  1. is that mean that i need 30 NPN transistors...? :astonished:
  2. i didnt understand how to connect the NPN to the arduino pin AND to an external battery so after a bit of searching i found this sketch- (led strip), and i do understand it - BUT it's not with an external power
    thnx :slight_smile:

It is with external power. The grey wire connecting to the "9V" pin (which should be labeled "Vin") is directly connected to the power jack and "unregulated" (not regulated by the Arduino which only regulates the 5V and 3.3V pins).

Transistor tutorial; it's worth 10 minutes of your time: Transistor Circuits

  1. is that mean that i need 30 NPN transistors...? :astonished:

No, you need one transistor per GROUP of cathodes. Since you have three groups of cathodes (reds, greens, and blues) you need three transistors, like in the LED strip example you found. Each cathode will need a current limiting resistor. That is EACH cathode so you will need 30 resistors.

Like this.
With an appropriate power supply
http://www.dipmicro.com/store/DCA-07510

Make yourself a splitter cable for the power
http://www.alltronics.com/cgi-bin/item/98J009/search/2.1mm-X-6mm-Coax-Power-Connector
http://www.alltronics.com/cgi-bin/item/23J013/search/5.5mm-x-2.1mm-Coax-Power-Connector

Thank you all,

It is with external power. The grey wire connecting to the "9V" pin

1.so for external power, is it gonna be ok to take this: http://www.dipmicro.com/img/1/DCA-FULLVIEW.jpg
cut his adapter-then i'll have two wires-so i'll connect one to "GND" pin and the other wire to "Vin" pin?
(im planing to do it with an old charger like nokia phone charger - but with the right properties)

  1. The NPN, what do i need to know about it in the datasheet?
    which one will fit the best:
    http://www.taydaelectronics.com/2n3904-npn-general-propose-transistor.html
    2SC945 C945 BIPOLAR TRANSISTORS NPN 50V 0.15A
    http://www.taydaelectronics.com/2n2222a-2n2222-npn-transistor-0-8a-40v-to-18.html
    and whats are the purpose of each one, i mean whats the differences?

  2. just out of curiosity, insted of putting a resistor in every led, can't i put "high" resistor at the emmiter of each NPN? i mean between GND and Collector&Base "junction".

again thnak u all i apriciate your help :slight_smile:
CrossRoads special thank for the sketch pic

Justniv:
3. just out of curiosity, insted of putting a resistor in every led, can't i put "high" resistor at the emmiter of each NPN? i mean between GND and Collector&Base "junction".

No, you can't. Ten LEDs draw ten times the current of one LED but if you put 10 LEDs in parallel and feed them ten times the current there is no way to make them share the current equally. Some devices will hog the current, overheat, and die.

#1 - yes, basically make a Y cable with Power/Gnd at the end of the Y legs:

P------|------------------P
G____|___________G
| |----------------- P
|______________G

#2 - each transistor needs to have
Continuous Collector Current:
of 10 * LED current (10 X 0.02A = 0.2A, 200mA)
The 2n2222 can do that. The other2 can't.
Good to give yourself some margin there too - don't run parts right at the limit of what they can do.

  1. i'm sorry crossroad but i dont understand what did u mean with this sketch-

P------|------------------P
G____|___________G
| |----------------- P
|______________G

i meant to do exactly like this:


but, whats the max that i can put ? what should be max current/voltage of the adapter?
and do i need to feed the arduino as well? or it "know" how to use the power from the "VIN" pin?

  1. about the Continuous Collector Current, is it 20mA after the resistor?
    what resistor should i use? i think the blue and green should be 220ohm, and the red 300ohm. (but what do i know :slight_smile: )
    thnx

The resistor will depend on the LED.
Red, generally are 2V.
Green, Blue, generally 3.3V.
The Transistor will have voltage drop from collector to emitter, ~0.7V
So do some math:
( (Vsource) - (Vce-transistor) - (Vf-led) ) / (current desired) = Resistance needed
(5V - 0.7 - 2)/0.02 = 115 ohm
(5V - 0.7 - 3.3)/0.02 = 50 ohm
Check the parts you want to use and put int the right values.

For the splitter cable - hard to draw graphically. I can't open your attachments.
The arduino will draw what it needs, like 40-50mA.
The 30 LEDs will draw whatever you decide to let them draw via resistor selection.
30 LEDs, 20mA, so 600mA.
So use that to size your supply requirements.
The barrel jack connector output goes to a reverse polarity protection diode which then connects to the Vin header pin, and then feeds the 5V regulator and shows up at the 5V header pin.
If you want to use 7.5V to supply the barrel jack, or the Vin pin, and the LEDs in parallel (adjusting your resistor values accordingly) that would be ideal.

  • how do you know the red is 2V and the green&blue are 3.3v? you own experience or am i missing somthing?

(5V - 0.7 - 3.3)/0.02 = 50 ohm

and if for example im gonna use 100ohm - nothing bad will happen it's just gonna be a bit dimmer, and it's gonna have a longer life?

  • about the supply: for the leds : 600mA, Arduino: 50mA - that's mean i need a supplier of EXACTLY 5V/650mA ?
  • about the connections - im not sure i understand you

The barrel jack connector output goes to a reverse polarity protection diode which then connects to the Vin header pin, and then feeds the 5V regulator and shows up at the 5V header pin

im sorry but what 5V regulator? im realy a newbie :\

i draw another one with the diode u said i hope u can see this one:
http://sphotos-g.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/s720x720/550573_4395099432812_145428076_n.jpg

Red/Green/Blue - approximate values from experience. Read your device's datasheet.
Higher will only make the LEDs dimmer and not damage anything.

Total current - your supply may be capable of 5V, and a gazillion mA- the circuit will only draw what is needed, limited by internal resistances, or LED current limit resistors.

Look at the top right - X1 is barrel connector, D1 is reverse polarity protection diode, U1 is the onboard regulator.
The voltage before the diode should be ~7.5V, the voltage after the diode ~6.5V, and the regulator will output 5V.

Connect your RGB LED anodes to Vin.
Make sure your walwart is >=7.5V (up to abiout 12V). You don't need the external diode, but it does offer extra protection.

your supply may be capable of 5V, and a gazillion mA

over current wo'nt burn the circuit??
for example this adapter (photo) will be allright to use, BUT we should use a regulator for the voltage (because it's 9-12V) ??

Look at the top right - X1 is barrel connector, D1 is reverse polarity protection diode, U1 is the onboard regulator.
The voltage before the diode should be ~7.5V, the voltage after the diode ~6.5V, and the regulator will output 5V.

i did understood the sketch, well sort of,iv'e couple of questions for that aswell but not now. What's more important is that i still cant understand how should i connect everything, cause u said: "U1 is the onboard regulator" so - i shouldnt add a regulator? and if i should does it matter which 5V regulator (can i use this 7805 Voltage regulator?) ?
does the diode is just optional?

Set your adapter for 7.5V, center positive, and stick it in barrel jack connector.
Measure the voltage at Vin.
Connect your LED anodes to Vin adjust your current limit resistors to match.

That's it.

stick it in barrel jack connector

Do you mean the arduino jack connector ? the one that's near the usb?
or do i need to use an external one?

and i still cant understand how should i connect everything, cause u said: "U1 is the onboard regulator" so - i shouldnt add a regulator? and if i should does it matter which 5V regulator (can i use this 7805 Voltage regulator?) ?

thanx for the patience :slight_smile:

Yes, the black round connector near the cornef of the board.
No additional regulator needed with the adapter you showed. Set it to 7.5V, center positive, and plug it into the board.
Measure Vin.
Connect Vin to your LED anodes, and use suitable resistors between the cathodes and the collector of the transistor.
(~7V - Vf - Vce)/.02 = resistor

ex. (7V - 2v - 0.7V)/.02 = resistor

  • oh, so if it's (barrel jack connector) count as an external supplier, can i use a USB as well? (not that im goingto its just for understanding)
  • and how much voltage can the barrel jack connector "take"\handle to the VIN pin?

1.Yes. USB only supplies 500mA. DO NOT connect you LED Anodes to power them.

  1. Up to about 12V. More than that and the U1 regulator may get pretty (quite) warm. That's why I suggested 7.5V.

ok lasts questions :slight_smile:

  • im not sure what did u mean with this-

DO NOT connect you LED Anodes to power them

  • again about the NPN, i found some cheaper one's and i want to be sure they gonna be suitable:

http://www.taydaelectronics.com/ktc3202-transistor-npn-30v-0-5a-to-92-ktc3202y-at.html

-Just to make sure, (and to expirience the software ) this is how i am gonna connect everything:
the 9V battery is insted of the ac/dc adapter-couldn't find it in the software

http://sphotos-g.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/418525_4403553004146_1268536174_n.jpg

by the way if anyone interested this is the software: http://fritzing.org/ its realy easy and u can do sketch/prefboard as well :slight_smile:
than?ss :))

I meant do not connect your common Anode to 5V on the arduino to power. You will need up to 600mA if all LEDs are on, and USB can only supply 500mA.

I don't care for fritzing. Cannot tell what is hooked up - for instance, which the Base-Emitter-Collector pins on the transistors?
Which is the anode on the LED? Is the middle resistor connected on its right side?
I'll take a real schematic anyday.