I tried to hookup a simple project, drive the RGB portion of lcd 16x2. Failed. Thought hey, its 5ma a piece, so hook up to pwm ports. Start to flash... flicker. I add a capacitor... someway along the thing goes belly up.
LED #13 lookin dim. 5V is 2.06, so is 3V3... shit
Think the microwave or a 2lb hammer will fix it best?
Take the time to figure out what the problem is, then the hours won't have been wasted because you learned something.
If you provide more details it's likely someone here can help you understand.
If you smash the project before doing so you may have lost the clue that will help you get it right on the next try.
Re: 7 hours of work down drain! Bout to give up on ardiunos..
If you don't take the trouble to figure out what you did wrong the same problem will arise with any microprocessor. There is nothing technically unusual about an Arduino.
...R
microwave defo da best dude, Destroy micro and arduino same time? Dope.
mattlogue:
I tried to hookup a simple project, drive the RGB portion of lcd 16x2. Failed. Thought hey, its 5ma a piece, so hook up to pwm ports. Start to flash... flicker. I add a capacitor... someway along the thing goes belly up.
LED #13 lookin dim. 5V is 2.06, so is 3V3... shit
Think the microwave or a 2lb hammer will fix it best?
What LCD 16x2 with RGB?
Do the RBG LEDs need current limit resistors?
Can you please post a copy of your circuit, in CAD or a picture of a hand drawn circuit in jpg, png?
Tom.. 
Short attention span?
Yeah.. literally very short. As is temper. I will learn.
Nano #3 for some reason isn't resistant to shorting the Grd and VIN pins... a gator clip end, stranded wire was on a paperboard expansion... still only 5", short enough clearance a few errant strands from the stripped end of clip bridged GRD and VIN.
I was acting funky before... It's not SOP, but I hooked the common anode RGB 16x2 LCD through a 1kOhm resistor to +5V and the PWM pins. It would flicker and act as if it was overloaded. 15ma at most if my math is right... it's more than 1kOhm, as the LCD module has smt resistors too. I got smart, found some NPN transistors, but still it flickered. Could of been due to short though. A capacitor got it glowing smoothly, I was acting like Dr Frankenstein... I pack it up, then POOF. Dead stick. I realized at 5AM it was the ground clip...
Never again:
I'm considering just using the screw terminals.
Hi,
I hooked the common anode RGB 16x2 LCD through a 1kOhm resistor to +5V and the PWM pins.
I hope you connected one end of the 1K to +5V, the other end of the 1K to the ANODES of the RGB LEDS.
The CATHODES of the LEDs to the PWM pins?
Best connect the COMMON ANODE to +5V and to use a 1K for each LED CATHODE to their respective PWM pins, otherwise you will find changing the brightness of one LED will change the brightness of the other, due to current sharing through the resistor.
Can you please post a copy of your circuit, in CAD or a picture of a hand drawn circuit in jpg, png?
Have you got your project working?
Tom...
PS, you need to get some of these.
All, Thanks, first off.
TomGeorge: Thanks! I used one of those and could use another so if I lose first. I admonished mfr of making a common anode. Thats dumb. But. I looked at hookup. They transistorized the drive, so to isolate each, a, and reduce load, it also, be definition, switched polarity. No work on them. Only discussion today. As far as resistor, my ignorance is factor. I felt since each LED had onboard R's I wouldn't get any tug-o-war, current wise. That could even screw up the MCU. I felt I was safe when I considered adding diodes in line, then slapped myself in forehead! I'm waiting on a screw-terminal, even though it's the kind that shoves out wires as you screw in. Actually, broke as I am, I'd love to show you the soldering tip I'm using, the whole setup. Not is it - or > but it has gone to ) and I have little room to sand more off, which isn't recommended anyhow.
I need a good throw-away uWave oven. It's fun making plasma, but it'll burn out the unit quick.
I'm not working, possibly on account of my ADD... how someone learns my diagnosis from one post should perhaps consider psychiatry practice. Anyhow, I hope I can get off post-probation as I average a lot more than 0.2 per minute on forums.
I soldered the headers on and then soldered leads onto headers, 24ga stranded.... ugh... Then I ran the leads, 1-2" each, to a paperboard card with slots in it. I tucked each lead into slots, then glued them in. Poor mans breakout board. I was wondering how one could easily make "cubical walls" to prevent shorts. Oh well. Too late. It shorted - toast.
I got one good working mini-project out of my first three. A capacitive panel that works through glass. Ugly prototype made out of "tin foil" spray-glued to paper with printed templates with a signal lead meticulously soldered onto back, running through acetate, along with a grounded lead spun around it. On the back side of acetate is a ground grid that borders the buttons. I duct taped it (black duck tape, thanks) to a small 4-5mm thick sheet of plain glass. I tried to add a active rejection region but the 1188 wouldn't calibrate it. I wanted to use it as a thermostat control, but with my wife having MS difficulties, a 5-way switch is clear way to go. Much wrist movement over a 5" region of buttons, even if they are 0 pressure.
My next projects would be to:
A) verify a magnet lock plate is fully alligned and tight (occluded). I got help here on that.
b) read status of 15 or so reed switches
c) relay a disarm or change profile signal from first floor to 2nd floor in blueIris. It's just the transmission from floors... locally it's easy with com port... darn phone wires unused but not working..
If I'm batting, this is good numbers? Right?
Hi,
Okay mate, the fact that the display has the built in resistors will help.
ADD.. fine, keep asking questions, let us know you successes as well as your attempts.
Just be aware that you have available minds that "specialise" in various aspects of Arduino and we are all over the planet, so instant response may not always be instant
Most of all ENJOY what you are doing.. we learn as we go, mistakes or successes.
Tom...
(Got to go shopping (Hunter-Gathering) ... )
(26th Jan 2018, here. Australia Day.)
PS.
I need a good throw-away uWave oven. It's fun making plasma, but it'll burn out the unit quick.
Check out the charity shops, here some of them sell tested donated units for ridiculously low prices.
My workplace purchased one from the local Op-Shop for $30 to use as a load for switchmode industrial microwave power supplies.
For some reason it won't take my photo...
Hi,
Check that it is jpg or png, and keep its size down to 1M.
Paint, Win7, to load and resize any images to about 1000 pixels either wide or high.
Tom..
I feel like crap... my addmedicine worn off...
Good news is while I killed #3, I found that #1 has came back to life. I set out getting color matrices and calibrating it. Took it downstairs to lower resistance on the red channel and then got some dumb idea to use 5mm terminals on every other pin, then flip. What makes it hard, I suppose is my patience and the pin density. The things are tiny, and my anxiety is sky high I'll fry it while I see flux spatter all over. I mounted two blocks and gave up.
Terminals looked like these:
Job looked like a emoticon not provided... ^ is the closest thing. or maybe &.
I'm expecting in mail a breakout... next time maybe I get a bigger board.
I should of just popped in the darn headers again and shot it into my protoboard. Does it match up?
Secondly, is there a putty or something for fastening stuff? I'm shooting through masking tape. I seen Evan Kale use something, I thought it was pla-dough, I found out hard way that doesn't work.
I got interview tomorrow to be a night watchman. I know security.
Image is the dead #3. No #2 is still alive.
Goodnight and all.
mattlogue:
Secondly, is there a putty or something for fastening stuff? I'm shooting through masking tape. I seen Evan Kale use something, I thought it was pla-dough, I found out hard way that doesn't work.
I've seen people use Blu Tack. That's a brand name of the stuff people use for putting posters up on their walls when they don't want to leave holes from thumb tacks.
Hi,
You need one of these;
Tom...
Good luck on your interview! Getting the job should lower the anxiety level considerably.
Then you can spend your paycheck on more Arduino stuff!
mattlogue:
Nano #3 for some reason isn't resistant to shorting the Grd and VIN pins...
Okay, so this is a joke.
If you shorted the vin and ground pins would that actually damage the device? Current wouldn’t be flowing through the device at that point.....
Qdeathstar:
If you shorted the vin and ground pins would that actually damage the device? Current wouldn’t be flowing through the device at that point.....
Hi, if there are no series components, then no, there would be no damage.
BUT
If you are supplying power through the DC socket.
There is a series component, the PCB tracks, depending on the power source you could blowout any thin tracks.
Especially if you are using a rechargeable power source and no current limit.
Tom..
There's a fuse on the USB connect. It might be thermal reset.
