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Topic: Share tips you have come across (Read 84936 times) previous topic - next topic

GreyArea

Mentioned this in the 'Bar Sport forum'

https://www.banggood.com/MECHANIC-2-in-1-Double-deck-Multi-function-Silicone-Mat-Pad-Maintenance-Platform-BGA-Work-Station-p-1159929.html?rmmds=search

This makes a great addition to your work bench.
There are several versions available on eBay.
This version is made up of 2 silicone mats.

This is the first time I've read a 29 page thread from start to finish.

Because I'm using it at the moment, I just thought I'd mention...you can buy your own silicone casting resin. This tray looks so simple that you could cut whatever shapes you need from suitable gauge ldpe to make your mould, flood it with the resin and hey presto, you've made your own bespoke work tray.

Hint...make sure the base is a generous 3mm at thinnest point. Some of the silicones don't cure reliably if much thinner.

GreyArea

#436
Jan 03, 2018, 08:53 am Last Edit: Jan 03, 2018, 09:31 am by Coding Badly
The most ugly thing about most RGB LED strips is the discreteness of the individual LEDs. From a close enough distance, your eyes can clearly perceive the spacial difference between light spots. has anyone found a good tactic for diffusing individual SMD LEDs? I'm thinking of trying a very small blob of hot glue and seeing if that takes the edge off it. It's slightly translucent.
Distance.

That's what I've found makes most difference. A piece of 3mm opaque acrylic placed directly on a strip of LEDs leaves them as defined point sources.

Raise the same sheet about 2cm from them and you get perfect soft diffusion.

What you sacrifice is illumination; if you just want to "see" the LEDs themselves, it's fine. If you're using the LEDs to see something else, not so much.

Materials I've found that work well;

Opaque acrylic (normally specifies light transmission which not many materials do - 30% seems commonly available in the UK)
80 gsm fibre glass weave - not tried embedded in resin yet, but even 8 layers "dry" allows good transmission
40mm white plumbing pipe...like the waste pipe on your bathroom sink...glows surprisingly well!

Might post some pics later.


GreyArea

#437
Jan 03, 2018, 09:19 pm Last Edit: Jan 04, 2018, 02:21 pm by GreyArea
Pics (videos, actually) of different LED diffusion materials as promised;

5mm opaque acrylic;

@ zero clearance from LEDs;
https://youtu.be/ZxgqMy8Mu58

@ ~10mm;
https://youtu.be/tfc87paQai0

@ ~25mm;
https://youtu.be/6LqwBQm80P0

40mm diameter white plumbing pipe;
https://youtu.be/4TMwGAQ2pXE

80gsm fibre glass (8layers, 0mm clearance);
https://youtu.be/n-4TGhghPQo

@ ~25mm clearance;
https://youtu.be/y-AvcSwlwQo

Edit: latest materials only arrived today...fibre glass tubes...narrow gauge one is about a 2 mm wall, 30 mm diameter tube, wider one is maybe 1mm wall, 35mm diameter. Even where they overlap there is still light transmission.

https://youtu.be/qnQy1M1Z--o

Only very short videos but I think really show how much a bit of clearance helps soften the effect.


Boardburner2




[/quote]
I have been fighting with intermittent charging on our iPads.

I have problems with an ipad 3 .
The connector seems to be the problem not the lead..
It does not seem to fully fit in the socket as it used to.
Some leads work better than others, not sure why.

terryking228

#439
Jan 04, 2018, 01:08 am Last Edit: Jan 05, 2018, 01:11 am by terryking228 Reason: Clairify
Quote
The connector seems to be the problem not the lead..
It does not seem to fully fit in the socket as it used to
My Iphone stopped charging; I was about to junk it.

Using my magnifier glasses  I looked at my 'dead' Iphone. I found a funny piece of debris inside the Iphone charger cable socket on the bottom of the Iphone.  Removed with a needle. It WORKS!

So look very closely at the cable and the Ixxx socket.
Regards, Terry King terry@yourduino.com  - Check great prices, devices and Arduino-related boards at http://YourDuino.com
HOW-TO: http://ArduinoInfo.Info

MAS3

#440
Jan 05, 2018, 01:06 am Last Edit: Jan 05, 2018, 01:06 am by MAS3
Wow terryking228, don't forget the disclaimer and warning to first unplug the charger from the socket, and to wait a while so the capacitors get some time to discharge a bit. :P
Have a look at "blink without delay".
Did you connect the grounds ?
Je kunt hier ook in het Nederlands terecht: http://arduino.cc/forum/index.php/board,77.0.html

terryking228

Hi,
Quote
first unplug the charger from the socket
I updated the above post to try to make it clear I was looking at the 'dead' Iphone, not the charger..
Regards, Terry King terry@yourduino.com  - Check great prices, devices and Arduino-related boards at http://YourDuino.com
HOW-TO: http://ArduinoInfo.Info

westfw

Apparently the charger port of an iPhone is on a separate PCB, and can be replaced "relatively easily" (depending on model, I guess.  I was looking at a 5s.)  (about the same difficulty as replacing the battery.)
https://www.imore.com/how-fix-broken-charge-port-iphone-5


Boardburner2

Using my magnifier glasses  I looked at my 'dead' Iphone. I found a funny piece of debris inside the Iphone charger cable socket on the bottom of the Iphone.  Removed with a needle. It WORKS!

I had exacly the same previously.

I wonder if poking it with a needle caused damage.

Henry_Best

Some breadboard stuff.

When making connectors like this, I always include a key pin so that it's impossible to connect them the wrong way round. For this one, I would use seven pins, snip off pin 2 and force it into the connector at position 2, which has no wire connected to it. I recently released the smoke in a 2.5" IDE hard drive by connecting it the wrong way round!

Henry_Best

#445
Jan 17, 2018, 03:23 am Last Edit: Jan 17, 2018, 03:26 am by Henry_Best

Easier and cheaper, to protect the teeth are these.
Binding strips
Easily cut to length by the saw itself and no clips needed.
Your local stationers probably sell them individually.

larryd

No technical PMs.
The last thing you did is where you should start looking.

Watcher

#447
Jan 17, 2018, 09:23 pm Last Edit: Jan 17, 2018, 09:24 pm by Watcher
When making connectors like this, I always include a key pin so that it's impossible to connect them the wrong way round. For this one, I would use seven pins, snip off pin 2 and force it into the connector at position 2, which has no wire connected to it. I recently released the smoke in a 2.5" IDE hard drive by connecting it the wrong way round!
How is that printed label on the connector housing  made ? (Post #444)

larryd

#448
Jan 17, 2018, 09:34 pm Last Edit: Jan 17, 2018, 09:36 pm by larryd
I printed it on a full page label using an ink jet printer.

I laminated it with clear packing tape then cut it to size.

See the ZIP file (WORD) and PDF attachments below.

MD5 for ZIP file is   8DFBED52BD713026C776B4490838C00C

No technical PMs.
The last thing you did is where you should start looking.

JedidiahStolzfus

Arduino Pro Mini interface board.  Plugs directly into the bus lines of the breadboard, and has both male and female headers along the side.



ESP-01 Programming board with integrated 3.3v regulator and easy access to the GPIO pins as well as a header for connecting an FTDI board.  Not my best work, but it's functional, and it was about 20F in the workshop when I put it together.


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