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Topic: FINISHED PROJECT: ATTiny13A DMX Receiver, to WS2813 LED controller in 962 bytes (Read 14031 times) previous topic - next topic

mcnobby

And a general question...

In my logic the 5 DMX cans, hooked together in a serial fashion with XLR (3 pin), should each be addressed with their own first channel... i.e. 1st can (master) is channel 1 - red, can 2 - Channel 16 - red, Can 3 - Channel 24 etc

When using the DMX Shield I can only get action on the first can and first channel. My send strings from "Serial Monitor" have no effect on the subsequent cans....


Any suggestions?
Cheers
Paul
Hi Paul
You are right about the addressing, but im not sure why you are getting that results
Personally I would try the information at the following link, it works perfectly and alot of people use it

http://www.mathertel.de/Arduino/DMXSerial.aspx
http://www.youtube.com/user/Recovered
http://www.smartshow.lighting

Macarena

Will not work. I connected the kernel tiny. But it's new and the project is being compiled with an overabundance of memory

mcnobby

Maybe the Kernel has been changed since I first posted this project
It was very very tight to fit the code into 1K, so perhaps this is the problem

It reality, this project need to be rewritten in assembler, not C

Bob
http://www.youtube.com/user/Recovered
http://www.smartshow.lighting

Macarena

Can someone have left the compiled code for firmware microcontroller?
Thank you


mcnobby

I would like to help, but it not a project I have been working on for quite some time, not sure that I am even set up for it

Bob
http://www.youtube.com/user/Recovered
http://www.smartshow.lighting

smeezekitty

If your code is too big, I suggest trying a newer version of avr-gcc. I found that newer versions generate significantly smaller code. The version included with winavr if you are using that is quite old
Avoid throwing electronics out as you or someone else might need them for parts or use.
Solid state rectifiers are the only REAL rectifiers.
Resistors for LEDS!

Macarena


I do not have any programming experience at all, I found this project very compact and functional for installing something inside the DMX controller for the signal monitor.
 Help me please .

mcnobby

http://www.youtube.com/user/Recovered
http://www.smartshow.lighting

bipsen

Hi Bob,

I thought I would publish this for all those who are interested in DMX and those clever little WS2812 RGB leds

Its written to fit in an ATTiny13A which has 1k of flash space and 64 bytes of Ram

While searching the internet for a simple (and small) implementation of something to control a RGB LED via DMX, I stumbled over this thread.

A suggestion for improvement (in case someone is skilled enough to do the merge of the programming), is to implement the gammacorrection in the code, and maybe change the way to set the DMX address as done in the code on https://www.pcdimmer.de/downloads/Firmware_Treiber/DMX512/pc_dimmer_dmx512_rgbled.zip ?

The chip might have to be changed to a version with more memory - but due to the simplicity of the circuit (and size of components), it can probably be put on a really small PCB...  :-)

Brian

mcnobby

Thank you Brian, I have moved on some way since doing this project and make all types of DMX devices now using Atmel, ST32 and ESP8266. The initial program was not that great at receiving DMX as there was instability due to timing errors. One day I will rewrite it just for fun (I have a greater knowledge of DMX & Pixel data now)

Interesting though about the gamma correction, but generally PC applications that send out pixel data (over DMX) is already gamma corrected by the application (Jinx live-leds.de for example)

Regards Bob
http://www.youtube.com/user/Recovered
http://www.smartshow.lighting

bipsen

Well, my interrest in the ATtiny13 circuit was due to the small requirement for physical space...
An ATTiny13 with a WS2811 - some transistors and a 75176 or similar...

I am trying to figure out, if I somehow can put a DMX RGB circuit inside this 3D printed part (with minor adjustments to the back piece): https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2051738

I know, that I probably will have to use some 1.25mm spaced JST connectors for DMX IN/OUT, but that is the least of my challenges...

There is a physical limit on the PCB, that should hold the circuit - approx 17x11 mm  :o  ... And I would like to try to drive a 3W RGB LED with it (not full power, though - I think total current will have to stay below 200mA in order for the LED not to get too warm) ...
A 20 pin SOIC 2313 takes up too much space - and I am not sure, that I will be able to solder a ATmega328P in a 32 pin TQFP package by hand ...
 

bipsen

Thank you Brian, I have moved on some way since doing this project and make all types of DMX devices now using Atmel, ST32 and ESP8266. The initial program was not that great at receiving DMX as there was instability due to timing errors. One day I will rewrite it just for fun (I have a greater knowledge of DMX & Pixel data now)
ESP8266 - isn't that the one usually being used with 2.4GHz networks? I have a couple of 2.4 GHz DMX transceivers somewhere (from China).. Would a ESP8266 be able to listen for DMX data from those, and maybe control a RGB LED ?

In the meantime I'm searching for an alternative 3-channel PWM dimmer solution with DMX C-sourcecode for a 32 pin TQFP AVR chip instead - ATmega168 or 328 or similar... Have not found anything useful yet, though...

Regards
Brian

mcnobby

Hello Brian

How are you getting on with your ATTiny13/WS2811 project ?
I am in the process of making an ATTIny13a receive the WS2812 data, decode it and turn it into something useful, currently its is driving servos, but I also intend to drive PWM motor off and H-Bridge

I have had to crank up the clock from 9.6MHz to 16MHz using OSCCAL, but works an absolute treat !
Full use of the Timer0 (the only timer) where I shift it between several modes, once it hits its first interrupt mode I then change the interrupt type etc, then let it hit the next interrupt

I hope to publish code for this soon, once all the bugs are ironed out and I have a fully working circuit (actually there are NO components other than a bit of decoupling !)

Bob
http://www.youtube.com/user/Recovered
http://www.smartshow.lighting

smeezekitty

Avoid throwing electronics out as you or someone else might need them for parts or use.
Solid state rectifiers are the only REAL rectifiers.
Resistors for LEDS!

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