basic soldering iron - tips and advice?

Hello,
So I read a bit and looked at some youtube videos. I have a Weller 40W with a fine tip that I just got. I plugged it in, let it get nice and hot, and then tried to tin the tip. But it didn't work, the solder seems to be repelled by the tip.

I cleaned the tip with a wet rag and clean it with a flux pen. Tried again, still the solder kind of repels the tip. I'm using 3% Silver 96%Tin 0.5% Cu Lead-Free .015" solder.

I also had a hard time getting the solder to get sucked onto the pads of a RFM69 module. I am applying flux pen on the pads before soldering. Am I suppose to heat the pads directly or the pin headers? I'm unsure.

Any soldering tips would be appreciated.

Thanks!

You apply heat to both the pad and the pin at the same time. Touch the solder in amongst it amongst it all and allow the joint to heat up just enough to cause the solder to flow into the joint. You want to tread the fine line between starving the joint and creating a huge blob that might even connect to the adjacent pad/pins.

Look at solder joints on a variety of boards and you will have examples of how it should look when you get done.

I'm not sure about the lead-free solder. Haven't used. For the regular stuff, I have used 0000 steel wool to clean a cruddy tip and have always had good tinning of the tip. If you have an extra tip and don't mind possibly ruining one, you could try it.

Weller is a good brand. Mine is a cheap POS, but it works for my limited use. I had a computer repair business. When it closed, the technicians stole all the good equipment. I don't think they were worried about being fired for it.

John

I use only 60/40 lead tin.
Never used lead free.

Hi, if you are using a WELLER iron ,does it have replaceable tips, Weller tips are usually coated, which is what you tin. If the coating has worn away, and it does, then underneath I think they are iron, and that will not take solder to well.
You may need a new tip, clean these tips with damp sponge, never anything abrasive like the metal wool cleaners you can get.

Check the
http://www.weller-tools.com/

To see what you have.

Tom.... :slight_smile:

40W is an awful lot of heat for fine soldering work, just sayin'.

I would get some tip tinner (http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/0051303199/0051303199-ND/1801474 is what I've been using)) which you (as I understand it) just dip the tip into. Lead-free is just hard to work with. I have to do a lot of work with it at my job and there seems to be a sweet spot of about 1-2 hours after you start using a tip for about 5-6 hours where it actually seems to work well before it starts to build up crud.

Does anyone have any suggestions on how to get tips to last longer (Mine seem to be usable for roughly 20-30 hours of use)? My problem seems to be that over time, something starts burning/encrusting on the tip and slowly eats away at the tinnable area. Right now I just try to turn off the soldering iron when its not in use and leave it with a bit of solder on it when it cools, but beyond that I'd like to know any other suggestions. This is with Lead-free solder (I don't have the option to use Leaded solder). Also, what temperature do people tend to use for soldering say large surface mount or standard through-hole parts with Lead-Free solder?

This was a brand new iron and a brand new tip, which is why I was wondering why the solder doesn't tin the tip. It was the first use of the iron. Thought maybe I'm doing something wrong?

Get some 60/40 lead solder and try it. Could work. Just don't EAT a large quantity of it. It might make you sick. :smiley:

John

mirith:
Does anyone have any suggestions on how to get tips to last longer (Mine seem to be usable for roughly 20-30 hours of use)? My problem seems to be that over time, something starts burning/encrusting on the tip and slowly eats away at the tinnable area.

You must have bad/cheap tips or really aggressive flux. Mine last for years.

mirith:
Also, what temperature do people tend to use for soldering say large surface mount or standard through-hole parts with Lead-Free solder?

Most people don't use lead-free for that, it causes too many problems.

fungus:

mirith:
Also, what temperature do people tend to use for soldering say large surface mount or standard through-hole parts with Lead-Free solder?

Most people don't use lead-free for that, it causes too many problems.

Really? I thought Lead Free was industry standard for most manufacturers that wish to sell in Europe or California without severe restrictions and/or having to supply disposal. Our board builds usually involve a outsourced company doing it with paste/pick and place/wave solder, but its not like I have an option when having to do rework or building one by hand.

Its also possible HAKKO's tips are cheap. Its one of their own brand (Not Weller though), though I hadn't considered the flux (I don't add much to the board usually). I know my leaded tips have lasted for years, so I figured it was something to do with lead-free. I've been using a larger Weller soldering iron for some bigger applications and that tip hasn't ever gone bad over 2 years.

Is there a weller tip that is usable with the HAKKO 888 or something similar that is better?

mirith:
Most people don't use lead-free for that, it causes too many problems.

Really? I thought Lead Free was industry standard for most manufacturers that wish to sell in Europe or California without severe restrictions and/or having to supply disposal.
[/quote]

At an industrial level, sure, where boards are soldered in ovens, etc.

Hand soldering with an iron? It's really horrible to use.

fungus:
At an industrial level, sure, where boards are soldered in ovens, etc.

Hand soldering with an iron? It's really horrible to use.

You mean solder containing lead is really horrible to use when hand soldering? In terms of health concerns? Or do you get poor soldering joints/results?

Lead molecule is large for absorption, avoid cuts cover with bandaid, wash hands, use ventilation if concerned.

You mean solder containing lead is really horrible to use when hand soldering?

No, he means that solder without lead is really horrible to use when hand soldering.

That is why people doing hand soldering, still prefer to used leaded solder.

michinyon:

You mean solder containing lead is really horrible to use when hand soldering?

No, he means that solder without lead is really horrible to use when hand soldering.

Correct.

fungus:

michinyon:

You mean solder containing lead is really horrible to use when hand soldering?

No, he means that solder without lead is really horrible to use when hand soldering.

Correct.

I definitely agree that lead soldering is 10x easier than lead-free. Just don't eat it, don't smear molten solder into cuts, and wash your hands after you are done before eating anything. I use lead solder at home, also because it is cheaper.

My questions were on what people did if they did have to do lead-free hand soldering.

Most are reduced to tears, quit their job, and move to a hermitage. :stuck_out_tongue_closed_eyes:

John

To tin a tip for the first time, do NOT wait for it to heat up.

Cold, wrap solder around the tip. Put a little flux on it.

Plug the iron in and turn it on. It will start smoking as the flux burns. As the solder starts melting, it should stick to the tip. Don't be shy about adding solder to the tip.

If you wait until it is hot, a layer of metal oxidizes and repels the solder.

The tip is iron plated copper. Solder coats the iron.

As others have suggested, I strongly recommend using leaded solder. It is MUCH easier to use.

After you are done soldering, always clean the tip and add a little fresh solder to it before putting it back in the holder. Every time.

And if it sits for more than a minute or two, before soldering another joint, always clean and add a little solder to the tip again. This is to remove the layer of oxidized solder from the tip.

Never, NEVER file or sandpaper an iron plated tip. As soon as the iron has a hole in it, the solder will start eating away at the copper beneath. It will become difficult to solder, then suddenly the now hollow tip will collapse. Use iron wool (called Steel Wool in USA for some reason) or brass wool. I use a damp sponge (it MUST be cellulose or it will burn and stink and compromise the tip) and brass wool. Following what I said above about cleaning and adding solder to the tip, it is extremely rare that I ever have to get out iron/steel wool to scrub the tip.

If you EVER feel the urge to file your tip because you think it's "dirty" or just not working as good as it used to and you have tried the "normal" methods to prep it for work... D O N ' T! Go out and by a block of Sal Amoniac.

It's practically magical and lasts for AGES!

I have used a Hakko iron for nearly 30 years and in that time I've replaced 6 to 8 tips, 3 heating elements and 2 cords... On 3 different irons.
I don't buy heating elements or iron parts any more as I can buy a good working and new Hakko branded iron for 8 to 10 dollars from Ebay. I always keep a spare iron.. it saves me a trip to the store that is 15 Mi away to spend $4.95 to $5.95 for a tip, 12.00 for a heater and $27.00 for a new Iron.
This with 907, 926 and 936 irons.. Oddly enough I use used pieces of solder wick to clean the tips.. I noticed one day that my iron tip looked better after using it to remove a large patch of solder from a PCB I use for dead bug prototyping.
The sponge is a requirement and so is distilled water to wet the sponge.. In Southern California our water is so hard that it will leave a ring on the glass if left out for a day or so. The hard water ends up calcifying the sponge in a month or two's use. I also use the Hakko brass wool cleaner but only to deal with extra, old solder on the tip... In lieu of flicking it into the trash bin or on the floor... Since I am no linger employed full or any time for that matter I don't leave my iron on unless I am soldering and that makes my tips last even longer.
Assorted Hakko tips, likely knock-off's are available from Bosity for about $1.00 Ea typically I get 10 for 8 to 9 dollars. Just search for Bosity
on the web or Hakko soldering tips on Ebay.

Doc