That would be great if you could do that,
strykeroz:
In around an hour if you like I'll be able to load this up on an ATTiny85 if you don't find what's breaking it first.Cheers! Geoff
That would be great if you could do that,
strykeroz:
In around an hour if you like I'll be able to load this up on an ATTiny85 if you don't find what's breaking it first.Cheers! Geoff
Not sure how to do this. To tell you the truth I am not even sure what it means
strykeroz:
Suggest using the internal pull-up on your switch pin to simplify,Cheers! Geoff
No need to do that to fix anything, but a suggestion. Simply setMode to output as you would, but then digitalWrite that pin to high. Wire the pin to yor switch then ground. When not pressed the pin will digitalread high, and when pressed it will be low. But it means your switch circuit will be much simplified.
Regardless it is working the way you have it so I think just move LED3 to a pin that supports PWM, and lose the initiation of Serial...and i think it should run as it did for you on the arduino.
Geoff
There are only 2 PWM pins PIN 0 (5)
and PIN 1 (6)
I removed this line, and reprogrammed the 85 and it working some what.
But if your still willing to take a shot at I would deeply appreciate it.
strykeroz:
You need to lose this too...Serial.begin(9600); // Set up serial communication at 9600bps
Cheers! Geoff
kculm:
There are only 2 PWM pins PIN 0 (5)
and PIN 1 (6)
This is a common misconception. ATTiny85 has 4 pins capable of PWM, with two sharing the same clock source. I routinely use this little uC to run RGB LEDs.
Sorry still stuck on this iPad or would post an example.
Also, it is possible to drive any of the pins by software PWM if the application is lighting or anything else where accuracy or high frequencies aren't a requirement.
Cheers! Geoff
I am sorry if I am being a pain, but can you list the 4 PWM pins.
I am still learning and you are helping me a lot. I have a long way to tho...
Thanks
Not a problem at all. Sorry I type better on my PC too
Checkout the pins on this diagram http://www.akafugu.jp/images/microcontroller-reference-sheet.png
It is only those two PWM pins on ATTiny13.
Cheers! Geoff
That is much diffident then the one I have been going by;
Take a look
I put the switch on pin 2 and the last LED on 3, but no go.
I am not liking this new hobby. When does it start to get fun.
I am using this project as part of a Night lite I am make, I planed on staring the carving tomorrow.
strykeroz:
kculm:
There are only 2 PWM pins PIN 0 (5)
and PIN 1 (6)This is a common misconception. ATTiny85 has 4 pins capable of PWM, with two sharing the same clock source. I routinely use this little uC to run RGB LEDs.
Sorry still stuck on this iPad or would post an example.
Also, it is possible to drive any of the pins by software PWM if the application is lighting or anything else where accuracy or high frequencies aren't a requirement.
Cheers! Geoff
Really! if i had of known this 2 weeks ago, you'd have saved me about 30 bucks!
Which pins use PWM on the attiny85, i'll update my schematic - Thanks
Geoff,
I moved the last LED off of pin 2 (7) and onto pin pin 4 (3). Works
Now I got to figure out the delay on the last set of instruction ( Flame look).
Let me know how it looks on yours.
Thanks.
PS.
I have been stuck on this all Day. thanks for the heads up on the PWM pins.
That's excellent news.
Confirming the changes my side were removing the Serial.begin() and these pin assignments
int switchPin = 3; // IC leg 2 (PB3)
int led1Pin = 0; // IC leg 5 (PB0)
int led2Pin = 1; // IC leg 6 (PB1)
int led3Pin = 4; // IC leg 3 (PB4)
Also, here's how it would look modified to use the internal pull-up resistor on the switch (as mentioned earlier). For this circuit you'd not have any additional resistors on the switch circuit, just wire to the switch and from there to ground.
/*
* Night Lite, final version
*/
int switchPin = 3; // IC leg 2 (PB3)
int led1Pin = 0; // IC leg 5 (PB0)
int led2Pin = 1; // IC leg 6 (PB1)
int led3Pin = 4; // IC leg 3 (PB4)
int val; // variable for reading the pin status
int val2; // variable for reading the delayed status
int buttonState; // variable to hold the button state
int lightMode = 0; // What mode is the light in?
void setup() {
pinMode(switchPin, INPUT); // Set the switch pin as input
digitalWrite(switchPin, HIGH); // set internal pull-up resistor
pinMode(led1Pin, OUTPUT);
pinMode(led2Pin, OUTPUT);
pinMode(led3Pin, OUTPUT);
buttonState = digitalRead(switchPin); // read the initial state
}
void loop(){
val = digitalRead(switchPin); // read input value and store it in val
delay(10); // 10 milliseconds is a good amount of time
val2 = digitalRead(switchPin); // read the input again to check for bounces
if (val == val2) { // make sure we got 2 consistant readings!
if (val != buttonState) { // the button state has changed!
if (val == LOW) { // check if the button is pressed
if (lightMode == 0) { // if its off
lightMode = 1; // turn lights on!
}
else {
if (lightMode == 1) { // if its all-on
lightMode = 2; // make it blink!
}
else {
if (lightMode == 2) { // if its blinking
lightMode = 3; // make it wave!
}
else {
if (lightMode == 3) { // if its waving,
lightMode = 4;
}
else{
if (lightMode == 4){
lightMode =0;
} // turn light off!
}
}
}
}
}
buttonState = val; // save the new state in our variable
}
// Now do whatever the lightMode indicates
if (lightMode == 0) { // all-off
digitalWrite(led1Pin, LOW);
digitalWrite(led2Pin, LOW);
digitalWrite(led3Pin, LOW);
}
if (lightMode == 1) { // Blue On
digitalWrite(led1Pin, HIGH);
digitalWrite(led2Pin, LOW);
digitalWrite(led3Pin, LOW);
}
if (lightMode == 2) { // Blue off, Green On
digitalWrite(led1Pin, LOW);
digitalWrite(led2Pin, HIGH);
digitalWrite(led1Pin, LOW);
}
if (lightMode == 3) { // Red On Green Off
digitalWrite(led1Pin, LOW);
digitalWrite(led2Pin, LOW);
digitalWrite(led3Pin, HIGH);
}
if (lightMode == 4) { // Flame
analogWrite(led1Pin, random(120)+135);
analogWrite(led2Pin, random(120)+135);
analogWrite(led3Pin, random(120)+135);
delay(random(100));
}
}
}
Cheers ! Geoff
When I removed the Serial.begin() that's when thing started to work. Can you explain why.
Again sorry, but this is how I learn.
Thanks.
No need for any apology.
It's simply that Serial is a set of functions that talk to the RX and TX pins via the inbuilt UART on the ATMega. There is no hardware serial support on the ATTiny85 so that function cannot work.
There is a software serial available for the Arduino-Tiny library if I recall correctly so the functionality can be achieved another way if you need it.
Cheers ! Geoff
Thanks to all your help, I got it working and leaned a lot in the process.
Now one more thing I would like to ask.
Because this is going to be a Night Lite I don't want to use batters. I don't know how log they would last.
That being said what would be the right size power supply.
Thanks
Hi
Glad to hear it's all working now your side.
Depending on the particular ATTiny85 you're using there's a broad range of voltages which will be suitable.
[quote author=ATTiny85 datasheet http://www.atmel.com/Images/doc2586.pdf]Operating Voltage
– 1.8 - 5.5V for ATtiny25V/45V/85V
– 2.7 - 5.5V for ATtiny25/45/85[/quote]Any wall wart in the 3 to 5 Volt range will be a safe bet (and somewhat cheap, if you don't have one laying about from an old mobile phone or similar to repurpose).
Just remember if you use something lower than 5V you will need to adjust the size of the current limiting resistors you use for your LEDs down or they'll be dimmer (maybe not a bad thing for a night light, but best to test first). LEDcalc.com can help with the maths.
All the best,
Geoff
(PCINT5/RESET/ADC0/dW) PB5
(PCINT3/XTAL1/CLKI/OC1B/ADC3) PB3
(PCINT4/XTAL2/CLKO/OC1B/ADC2) PB4
GND
VCC
PB2 (SCK/USCK/SCL/ADC1/T0/INT0/PCINT2)
PB1 (MISO/DO/AIN1/OC0B/OC1A/PCINT1)
PB0 (MOSI/DI/SDA/AIN0/OC0A/OC1A/AREF/PCINT0)
pins 2,3,5,6 have PWM then!
Well wow! - 2 are high speed and the other 2 are not...
And two share the same pwm pin
So there are three different pwm pins:
PB4
PB0
PB1