How to controll A.C. 230V fan speed with arduino..??

Joy:
What if I do this..??

That circuit is for on/off
I found another circuit where they are doing it in this way..

Another similar circuit here

That's for "random fire". OK1 is your zero-cross detector. OK2 is the triac driver, but for your motor (Inductive load!) you need to add a snubber across the power triac and a snubber on the triac driver output, too. See "page 5 of 9" >>>>> http://www.jameco.com/Jameco/Products/ProdDS/277835FSC.pdf

I was wondering whether this project came off the ground.. I have a similar demand, I want to control a house /kitchen fan (with inductive loads) with a triac kind of dimmer setup. I am looking for a heads up whether this would work on such ac electromotors.. If they perform steady etc.

thanks!

Did you find a solution to this?

I have a ceiling fan which is being controlled by arduino and 5V relay.
What changes do i need to do to control the speed of 220V fan.

Joy:
those are ready to use modules..

I know about them..

But I would like to control it with arduino for other reasons..... You can say a kind of home automation..

Hello Joy, in this link you can find information about the hardware and the software to do phase control (in this example this is used to dimm an AC bulb with TRIAC, but may work for a fan too). http://www.instructables.com/id/Arduino-controlled-light-dimmer-The-circuit/?lang=es

Anyway, you should research a little bit about zero crossing detection and ac phase control.

Driving a resistive load (a bulb) is a little bit different from driving an inductive load (a motor). For resistive load the firing angle of the TRIAC may change between 0 and 180°, but for inductive load it changes between 90° and 180°.

hi i want to ask i made the arduino triac control i made same dia and same code on instructable but 1 thing i am facing is my moc3021 receiving pulse to turn it on and also gate pulses are present at triac and also A1 and A2 of triac have 220v ac but my load is not turning on i m unable to do it the series of load and 220v ac is correct my 4n25 is working fine but why my lamp is not turning on i made whole system on bread board please tell me :drooling_face:

how to control single phase ac fan using arduino,
any body have circuit diagram and sample code pls post if u have.

Joy:
I would like to use arduino to control the household fan speed which runs on 230V A.C. ...

How will I control the fan speed from the PWM outputs of the arduino board..??

What components should I use to fire a triac for the regulation..??

Here (NXP® Semiconductors Official Site | NXP Semiconductors),


in my opinion, is best described in the single-phase motor controller. In the description of the controller can change at your own Arduino model. You can control it with adjustable resistance, rotary encoder, or with buttons up / down. You only need to be programmed so that the Arduino generate 16kHz PWM. The controller is running smoothly, the engine does not emit a noise as controlled with a triac. All of the details (without Arduino) cost about $ 30.

how to control single phase ac fan using arduino,
any body have circuit diagram and sample code pls post if u have.

ATmega328 based remote controlled AC FAN circuit

Note-the PCB is only $1. If it were me I would order the PCB , the Triac, and the remote. I have everything else.

That top schematic is wired incorrectly. Note where the optoisolator is connected to the triac versus where it is connected in the other two circuits.

The drawings are different because the pin # location is swapped. Electrically it looks like it's wired the same. Also, of the three drawings, the first uses the MOC3011, the second uses the MOC3031,
and the third uses the MOC3020. Go figure.

BTW,
I found a SNUBBER circuit.

If I draw the arrow on the wrong lead of a BJT but label C, B, and E correctly, the schematic is still incorrect. And misleading.

If I draw the arrow on the wrong lead of a BJT but label C, B, and E correctly, the schematic is still incorrect. And misleading.

I can't argue that. An incorrect schematic is an incorrect schematic. Correct pin numbers do not make up for a mistake in the drawing, they just confuse the issue.

There are schematics in Reply#2, #6, & #7

Just to confirm, the schematic drawn incorrectly is the one with the MOC3011 or the one with the MOC3020 ??

This one:

It is partly correct in that the optoisolator needs to go from G to MT2, but it is drawn as if it were connected to MT1. It is also missing a pull-down resistor from G to MT1.

It could be argued that it was drawn in this annoyingly, different-for-no-reason symbol:

But in that case, it was drawn upside down, further muddling understanding. And one of the very important aspects of a schematic is to make things more clear. Or we'd just use Fritzing pictorials. :stuck_out_tongue:

Or we'd just use Fritzing pictorials

** AMEN !**

http://playground.arduino.cc/Main/ACPhaseControl

Am I to understand that in this schematic a phase wire and return wire are connected?

I am trying to control the speed of a universal motor from a washing machine. I first want to try the circuit out with dimming a light bulb before testing it with a motor and assembling my finished project.

Please correct me if I'm wrong:

The grounds marked GND are to be connected to the negative power supply on Arduino
The Triac pin MT1 is connected to a live ac phase, MT2 leading to a lead of a light bulb for example, the Gate is receiving a signal through pin 4 of the opto-isolator

If I am correct in those interpretations then my only question before soldering my first attempt is where do I connect the other wire(s) of the output device? Maybe I just don't understand the schematic. Do I loop the the wires back into the existing ground and phase? (j1 and j2 in the schematic)


If we are going to be fussy, the diagram on the left is complete nonsense.

It appears on this page, and somewhat similarly on this one. The latter amusingly states:

As there is considerable scope for confusion, the device polarity is normally described with reference to MT1.

Am I to understand that in this schematic a phase wire and return wire are connected?

Let's keep it simple. Think of the triac as a switch and the gate as the control. A switch has two contacts.
If you connect your washing machine with a switch, the switch is going to be IN SERIES with ONE of the AC
line wire. Washing machines generally run on single phase 220 to 230 vac. Unlike a 120 vac where one of the wires is called LINE and the other NEUTRAL (in the USA), single phase 220 is two (of three phases).
(as opposed to PHASE and Neutral), so the two wires would appropriately be called L1 & L2. The AC comes out of the outlet and ONLY ONE of the wires is used to switch the load. That means the at no time would you be modifying the second wire. It would remain connected to the load. The switched wire would be CUT
(WITH THE POWER OFF ) and the switch inserted in series. In your case, the "switch" is the triac. It would
still be wired like a two terminal switch except the opto MOC3031 is connected to the Triac as shown in
the previous post. Polymorph and Paul can explain that part. The wire you refer to as "a return wire" is
the one on the SECONDARY of the Triac (MT?) and the other Triac terminal is the one connected to the load. (MT?). (according to the previous post, the terminal connected to the load is MT2 and the one "returning" to the outlet is MT1. (don't quote me on that) . Ask the other guys.

Thanks for your reply raschemmel that certainly helped clear a few things up.

Reffering back to the schematic then I just want to make sure I am correct in that neutral wire is connected to the earth wire leading into the zero cross detector.

I'm not comfortable with your terminology. As I said, there is no neutral for single phase 230vac Both wires
on the outlet are legs of a 3-phase transformer somewhere so they could be called phase-A & phase-B, or
L1 & L2, but one of them is a return, and no matter what you call it , it comes from the MT1 terminal of the
Triac and the other is the switched HOT lead connects the triac MT2 terminal with the load. The other side of the load goes to the other outlet lead. I would feel more comfortable if you draw a schematic and post a photo of it and ask questions based on that. I don't want to post it because it has already been done and if you are still asking questions after seeing the schematic Polymorph posted then , well, I would say we're not done yet. (because you don't understand it). Make sense ?

Look at this post.

Note the variable resistor . That is a dimmer pot. It controls the phase relationship and how much of the AC sinewave is applied to the load (more or less = brighter or dimmer) . In other examples you see this
replaced by a fixed value, because they don't want to vary it, they want it limited to some % of the full
wave. If you are controlling a washing machine you don't want it limited. You want the full wave so there
shouldn't be a resistor or a pot. (similar to the schematic Polymorph posted)

Look at the schematic symbol for the triac. You see how the terminal at the top of the symbol is MT2 and the one on the bottom
is MT1 (on the same side the gate comes out) ? So if you are indeed using an MOC3031 it should be wired
as shown in the mislabeled schematic Polymorph posted. The top terminal should be labeled MT2 and the bottom , MT1, as shown in the above link I just posted. Look at the DATASHEET example (which uses the AC wire labels Hot & Neutral (because they would be correct for 120vac US circuits) . Just substitute L1 for HOT and L2 for Neutral. Notice the difference between the datasheet example and the one posted by Polymorph ?

Look at the bottom triac in this example. See the motor ?

That's how the wiring you want to use (minus the 300 ohm resistor which was apparently a current limiting resistor for that motor). See where it says "230vac" ?

Typical circuit (Fig 12, 13) for use when hot line switching is required. In this circuit the “hot” side of the line is switched and the load
connected to the cold or neutral side. The load may be connected to either the neutral or hot line.
Rin is calculated so that IF is equal to the rated IFT of the part, 5 mA for the MOC3033M and MOC3043M, 10 mA for the MOC3032M
and MOC3042M, or 15 mA for the MOC3031M and MOC3041M. The 39 ohm resistor and 0.01 µF capacitor are for snubbing of the
triac and may or may not be necessary depending upon the particular triac and load used.

See the example on the left for the MOC3031 ? (BELOW)

HERE: (Fig.-12, page-6) (NOTE that is a HOT-LINE SWITCHING EXAMPLE: LOAD CONNECTED TO "COLD or Neutral side". (I can't comment on HOT-LINE SWITCHING VS. COLD LINE SWITCHING because I don't know which application requires which or if it even makes a difference. You'll have to consult someone else about that.
DATASHEET EXAMPLE-2

I understood the connection of the triac after your first response, I'm looking at the schematic

I believe the example is 120vac, so I am to understand the earth wire and netural wire are connected here (j1 and j2)