Permanent proto shield installation

Another option is to get a different prototype shield. I've bought the following:

  • http://www.robotshop.com/productinfo.aspx?pc=RB-Dfr-98&lang=en-US -- I just got this shield, I like it because it has screw terminals to connect the wires. In my other proto shield, I had the wires coming out of the headers when the shield was moved around. However, the pads on the board aren't as well laid out like a breadboard.
  • http://arduino-direct.com/sunshop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=93 -- this is the shield, I've used for some time. It doesn't have a second row of pins, so you have to attach the wires to stackable headers, which if you move the shield around, they can come out. It has two leds and an extra button on the shield that you can attach to any pin.

Two others that I've thought of include (note, these aren't assembled, you would have to solder the headers to the boards):

It looks to me that the second board is virtually identical to what I have. It has the same issue with male and female headers taking up all the solder pads for I/O pins. It looks like the last like may be the same header setup. I like the wing board, but it's a bit large for the enclosure I was planning.

It sounds like the answer is if the shield doesn't work, try again. If that's the case, I might as well desolder the headers since I'd have to replace it either way.

bkenobi:
It has the same issue with male and female headers taking up all the solder pads for I/O pins.

It sounds like the answer is if the shield doesn't work, try again. If that's the case, I might as well desolder the headers since I'd have to replace it either way.

Are you sure this is the case? It looks to me like you simply put stackable headers in the outer rows of holes thereby freeing up all the inner holes to solder whatever you like, just like the boards I have, and it is your choice whether you use stackable headers or not. I don't know why the picture shows male and female headers being used to fill up all the holes, but the explanation could be very simple - the board is actually designed to receive plug-in cables, hence all the gnd and 5v points grouped together. I don't think this stops you from using the board the way you want.

Nick_Pyner:
Are you sure this is the case? It looks to me like you simply put stackable headers in the outer rows of holes thereby freeing up all the inner holes to solder whatever you like, just like the boards I have, and it is your choice whether you us stackable headers or not. I don't know why the picture shows male and female headers being used to fill up all the holes, but the explanation could be very simple - the board is actually designed to receive plug-in cables, hence all the gnd and 5v points grouped together. I don't think this stops you from using the board the way you want.

On my prototype shield (2nd link in my post), there is only one row of holes (which have the stackable headers). Most of the other prototype shields seem to have two rows of holes, so that you could attach wires from the shield to one row, and the stackable headers to the other row.

If the board i have wasn't already assembled, a set of stackable headers would be a solution. As it stands, there is a set of male headers in one set of holes and female in the other. I'm going to try removing at least the female headers that are in the way. My next proto shield will certainly not be assembled so I can put things together how I need

bkenobi:
If the board i have wasn't already assembled, a set of stackable headers would be a solution. As it stands, there is a set of male headers in one set of holes and female in the other.

Pretty dumb, huh? I can't see why they didn't put stackable headers on it in the first place.

My next proto shield will certainly not be assembled so I can put things together how I need

Good idea. That board would be quite good if it was bought bare.

Dumb and obnoxious. It probably took 30 seconds to solder on all the components on the board. It took me over 30 minutes to remove the 2 digital I/O headers and clear the solder from the through holes. Granted a big part of that was my cheapo Radio Shack desoldering iron being a pain, but it could have been avoided if the right headers wer installed or none at all.

Nick_Pyner:

bkenobi:
If the board i have wasn't already assembled, a set of stackable headers would be a solution. As it stands, there is a set of male headers in one set of holes and female in the other.

Pretty dumb, huh? I can't see why they didn't put stackable headers on it in the first place.

Actually, I MUCH prefer the offset male/female headers. That method provides a way better fit than do the stackable headers which almost never fit right. They won't even allow the shield to clear the USB connector on the Uno/Duemilanove (etc..) Too bad about that prototype shield you got. Definitely annoying. How did they expect you to connect to your circuit? I guess it was designed to be used with a mini-breadboard.

A nice design of prototype shield would not only allow for the offset headers for stacking, but would also provide at least one row of connected holes along the headers to allow for connecting to the rest of the circuit.

This is an Ethernet shield with stackable headers on a Duemilanove. Horrible!

This is an shield with offset headers for stacking on the same Duemilanove. Much, much nicer.

stackable.jpg

offset.jpg

Looks to me like that's a shim issue. The stackable header does't have the plastic block by the board like the offset headers do. The total clearance is about the same from what I see. Couldn't a plastic block from a male header on a couple stackable pins accomplish the same thing? I'm not sure, I could be wrong.

Certainly, but I am not aware of anyone that is doing that in production. Probably too labor intensive. As for me, I'll always just go for the offset board if there is one available for what I need.

BillO:
A nice design of prototype shield would not only allow for the offset headers for stacking, but would also provide at least one row of connected holes along the headers to allow for connecting to the rest of the circuit.

The DFRobot proto-screw shield has both screw mounts for external connections, and a second row of headers so can solder directly to the shield but still use it as a stacking shield (and it comes pre-assembled): Proto Screw Shield-Assembled (Arduino Compatible) - DFRobot

The Omega ProtoPro-B shield has a second row of connected holes to allow connecting wires directly. That second row of pins is adjusted so that it is all at 0.1" spacing to allow for connection of multiple pin headers. Note, this does not come assembled, and you would need to solder in the headers (and you could use extra long pins for the connectors, but you may have to buy the pins separately). http://www.aztecmcu.com/catalog/i125.html

The seeed protoshield kit (that Radio Shack sells) has 3 rows of connected pins. It does not come assembled: http://www.seeedstudio.com/depot/protoshield-kit-for-arduino-p-318.html?cPath=132_134

This spanish prototype shield that is unassembled also has two rows of pins. From the ebay listing, it looks like the pins are high enough to clear the USB connector on the Uno: http://www.ebay.com/itm/150979294406?ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1436.l2649

BillO:
Certainly, but I am not aware of anyone that is doing that in production. Probably too labor intensive. As for me, I'll always just go for the offset board if there is one available for what I need.

But how do you stack a shield that has offset headers? If you put the board on the top of your stack, it doesn't matter I suppose. That may not always be an option though.

bkenobi:
But how do you stack a shield that has offset headers?

Same way as any other shield, surely?

Yes, see the picture below. The middle two shields are of the offset type. It works out even better in multiple stacks if the offsets alternate sides, but I don't have any free right for demonstration, so I just threw these together.

stack.jpg

@MichaelMeissner

Those are some pretty nice proto shields. Have you used them? How do they work out?

BillO:
@MichaelMeissner

Those are some pretty nice proto shields. Have you used them? How do they work out?

I bought the proto-screw shield but I haven't used it yet.

After buying it, I saw the announcement for the Omega ProtoPro-B, and I bought it, but I haven't received it yet. The announcement thread was here, and there were some comments about it: http://arduino.cc/forum/index.php/topic,140914.0.html

I just noticed the Spanish shield when it listed as a product other people were looking at when I was looking at one of my purchases. I have not bought it yet.

I like the concept of proto-screw shield because I'm still a solder novice, and it is easier to have shields that don't need assembly. However, the layout of the connected pins is unusual. I can imagine some things would work, and others would not without making either solder bridges or having to cut traces.

In terms of the layout, I like the Omega ProtoPro-B better, because it mimics a small breadboard, so it is easier to move stuff from the tiny breadboard to the shield.

Note, the Omega ProtoPro-B shields arrived on February 15th, after I initially posted this note.

Really? If the headers are shifted in/out, they won't line up with standard shields.

I am not sure what you mean. Those 3 shields in my previous post all stack together. They all connect properly to the host Arduino. I've done this dozens of times and have several in operation. Are you saying that picture is not real? I can assure you it is. :~

bkenobi:
Really? If the headers are shifted in/out, they won't line up with standard shields.

If they're offset, it just means the upper and lower headers on each side are offset sideways from each other. As long as both sides are offset in the same direction, the distance between them is the same and they'll match the standard Arduino pin layout. You're thinking they'd both be offset inwards or both outwards? I agree that wouldn't work, but that's not how it's done.

I missed half dozen posts somehow, weird. In any case, the way your shields were assembled you could certainly stack them The ones I bought were already assembled and were not offset like yours. If you don't mind the stack listing, that's a pretty good solution.