I had a quick question about the home-brew combination of Nano/DFPlayer Mini/MPU-6050 configuration.Is the wiring diagram on the FX-SaberOS wiki correct? The diagrams for the non-DIYino setup have the common cathode wiring connected to the RST pin instead of the GND pin on the Nano.Is that the right way to wire it?(And yes, I'm well aware the DIYino is a much superior alternative to cobbling together a homebrew system - I own half a dozen or so now, but this was mostly out of curiosity so I could experiment with the cheaper homebrew components when doing stuff that'll require more trail and error than I'd want to subject a DIYino.
Well I make an update to my project.Sounds work pretty well, MPU is still very sensitive on the movement detectioon, but thats ok. I finished now the second of four different lightsabers. Each with a different color and sound font.Reachged this point I want to thank you all, but especially JakeSoft, for your help during the lastb view months. Without your helpful input, this would not have been acomplished!
Well then, here we go! I am realy sorry for the bad quality of the images....And now the internals:...I am still not happy with my wiring...I think I am going to use some shrinktubing and put them all together.But that is number one out of four.... I´ll post more stuff as I am going on with the project.
Thanks for sharing! It's hard to see what's going on under that electrical tape. Maybe on Saber #2 give is a peek at what's under the hood. Your wiring looks pretty clean, though; I don't see any cause for stress. Think you'll be able to get it to fit inside with he battery? Looks like it will be tight.
Honestly its a bit tight.... but thats ok, nothing shakin inside or bumping around while using the saber. makes it pretty nice in the hand. The sound is incredible. I´ll make a list of what I have used for now:- MPU6050- 10Ohm 3W Resistor- BUK453- Arduino Nano- DFPPlayer Mini- MT3608 DCDC Converter- ICR18650-30B 3.7V 3000mAh Lithium Battery- One Pushbutton with LED Ring arround the button (same color as blade - obviously)- some wires and heat shirinks- soldering ironWith the next sabers I am going to ake some fotos of the hardware, since this one was already hidden underneath that fat shrinking tube. I am not shure, but I am thinking of writing a tutorial for my saber, since the hardware has become realy small...This smallnes is pretty useful for the empty ultrasabers....This means: You could buy a cheap empty hilt, get a blade from ebay and then insert the small hardware perfectly into the hilt. My saber is worth aproximatly 120€. For a saber with light and sound, that is pretty amazing - comparing to sabers at sourceforge or ultrasabers with the same features.And all this thanks to you JakeSoft! Again: Thank you very much!Regarding your OS for the Saber....How about using an RTOS as a base? FreeRTOS? I have been playin around with it, while building my waeatherstation. Is this something worth taking a closer look?
Hello to all the contributors of your extensive thread!As I am in Australia, lightsabers are pretty dang expensive to acquire or build here due to shipping costs, but I have always wanted to build one. A few months ago built an analogue RGB saber with a cheap toy soundboard out of what ever I could find: latching power switch for "on" and three 2-state toggle switches to change the colours. It works and I have had fun with it but I really want to go further with it so at this point I have waited the 6 weeks for all the various combinations of Usaber and LSOS parts to arrive so I could finally start modernising this JunkSaber(v2).Skillset: Electronicsweakness: Coding (I rely on pseudo code to track my variables)At this point walking through all the code examples to understand Class calls and using libraries with increasing success - slowly In the last few weeks I have spent many evenings examining all the examples and advice here, as well as for LSOS but have not yet got anything fully functional. Originally I hoped recreate the Homebrew method of LSOS but I cant get it Play sounds or detect motion, although my library tests have all worked with these units individually. So think the best thing right now is to roll up the sleeves and start fresh, with a simple plan and a new sketch.