Dagu Rover 5 chassis robot demo

Nick
I heard of one guy using the guts of an optical mouse, in a sumobot.
He simply detected if he was moving backwards while he was driving the wheels forward and acted on it.

This might help overcome the slippery surface issues.

Mark

hello everyone...i am doing a project which has three sensors, which when detects anything moves in other direction. For these work i am planning to going with rover 5 and also going with encoder compatible board(nick as suggested) but i guess i need some help with stuff....new for these kind of stuff...

hi nick...i am really sorry for the way of the message...i guess its hurt u alot...really sorry for that...i was trying get some information from you and i was in a little hurry...that's it....actually i am trying to develop a robot which should have three sensor's..as it detects something..the vehicle should move...its my final project....

krishna84:
... i guess its hurt u alot...really sorry for that...

This is referring to a couple of personal messages I received in the last few days which shouted at me in all caps.


krishna84:
... i guess i need some help with stuff....

@krishna84 - I'm sorry but I don't see a question here. No wonder no-one else has answered.

krishna84:
actually i am trying to develop a robot which should have three sensor's..as it detects something..the vehicle should move.

What sensors? We can't read your mind you know. Motion detectors? Sound? Light? Colour? Distance? "as it detects something" ... what? A cat? A wall? A hand? A line? A hole?

Read this:

I'm not going to sit here and design a cat-avoidance system so you can pass your final project in your exam. At least try something yourself. Choose some sensors. Post a link to them. Show how you wired them into your project (photo or schematic). If you don't know how to do that Google it and find out. If you can't make it work then, at least show how far you got, including links to the web sites you found with Google. If you write some code, post it. If it doesn't work, describe in what way.

In your first post you said that the rover is sloppily wired. I got my share of that today, and needed to perform some surgery on my rover. I was trying out a sketch and suddenly one motor stopped running. I was fearing the worst thinking that one of the FETs on the motor controller had given up. Turned out to be a loose wire... one of the wires going from the coil to the connector had come loose. There was almost no solder to be seen on that connection so it's no surprise it came loose.
I've been working on an autonomous sketch using an ultrasonic sensor to detect obstacles. The code works but it keeps bumping into stuff. Think I need some more sensors and fancier code :slight_smile:

This incredibly-sloppily wired-up robot is my first attempt to make something useful, eg. that will one day deliver a can of beer to my hands

Something like this?

robtillaart:
Something like this?

Exactly like that. :slight_smile:

Nick,

I have the same setup as you to in this tutorial, but i cannot get the bot to move for more than .5 seconds per direction. I havent changed any code at all and double checked the wiring.

Also in the code, to a novice, it appears you are using pins 8 and 9 as pin A & B respectively, but in the diagram they are not hooked up.. Could you please explain that to me.

Thanks!

Pins 8 and 9 were for the rotary encoders which I didn't use in the end, although the article talked about them.

It stops after about a second if it doesn't get another message from the remote, so it sounds like the connection might be flaky.

You could change this:

const unsigned long TIME_BEFORE_WE_GIVE_UP = 1000;  // ms

Where 1000 mS is 1 second. But you probably need to work out the underlying problem. Do you have an aerial at all? I stuck a short bit of wire in to help with that.

Also for the interrupt 0 assignment, that doesnt seem to be hooked up either,. Sorry I am rather new at this.

To clarify, my rover is going thru the fwd, left, backwards, right sequence but it is only moving for like .25 to .5 a sec before changing to the next direction in the list.

Oh I thought you were referring to this:

The forum is incredibly slow right now, it's taking 5 minutes for a page to load, so please bear with me.

Here, in the code on page 1 of this thread:

  delay (500);
  
}  // end of loop

So it changes direction every 1/2 a second. Change that to a bigger figure if you want.

The forum is incredibly slow right now, it's taking 5 minutes for a page to load, so please bear with me.....

Your not alone, the site is sooo slow lately. Whats goin on? ... Wait don't answer that. I will start my own thread to hijack.

Might I ask what the delay is in there for? It was my understanding the objective of the code was for it to fw/backward for 10 sec and turn for 1.2 sec.

Thank you for your patience with answering my questions.

EDIT** I am assuming that is the delay between direction changes?

By the way, I changed that value to 2 seconds, and it pulses in a direction for about .5 seconds then waits 2 seconds before changing directions to pulse again. I will try to get a vid.

thanks.

Er, maybe I was wrong. My mind is still seething over the lengthy delays trying to ban spammers on the forum. :wink:

This code here:

  // check current drain
  while (millis () - start < time_to_go)
    {
    if (analogRead (0) > 325)  // > 1.46 amps
      break;    
    }

That makes it stop if the current drain exceeds 1.46 amps. You might want to tweak that a bit. Perhaps your motors are drawing more than mine did. So if you make it higher, it will draw more current before stopping.

I am assuming that is the delay between direction changes?

Yes.

So far, I have to crank up that current drain value beyond 600, and even still, it will cut out when going in half the directions.. :~

Is there something potentially very wrong with my setup to cause that?

Hard to say. Try commenting out the check, and testing. Be ready to hit the power switch if things start smoking. :slight_smile:

hi, dagu photo.png, could you please tell me why you need power from arduino board icsp?

and why don't you use the jumpers of motors on the chassis?

thanks

tigerdorr:
hi, dagu photo.png, could you please tell me why you need power from arduino board icsp?

Those two wires (red and black) are just +5V and Gnd, which were available on the ICSP pins. Since they are pins on both ends it was easy to wire-wrap them.

tigerdorr:
and why don't you use the jumpers of motors on the chassis?

What jumpers are you referring to?

hi, thanks your reply.

abt q1, can i get V5 from other pin of arduino board?
it's hard to find f/f jumper wire, where did you get it?

q2, i saw about 5-6 female pin jumper out of the chassis motor, where there should be connected to?

tigerdorr:
abt q1, can i get V5 from other pin of arduino board?

Yes, wherever you want to.

it's hard to find f/f jumper wire, where did you get it?

q2, i saw about 5-6 female pin jumper out of the chassis motor, where there should be connected to?

4 wires are the encoder on the motor, the other 2 drive the motor. See close-up photo:

Of course there is another set for the other wheel.