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The best way is to use the option to REMOVE HARDWARE in device manager and it should also include an option to remove the driver too.

I usually follow that up with CCLEANER and WISE REGISTRY cleaner to remove any residual remnants and as a general tidy up.

Hardware / Re: Problema con pro micro ATM...
Last post by gpb01 - Today at 03:52 pm
Mmm ... onestamente non vedo cose particolari;  usi anche i pin digitali della seriale Serial1 come pin di ingresso e questo non dovrebbe essere un problema, salvo che ... per non so quale motivo, il pin TX era a 1 e tu, con il commutatore a tre vie, lo hai collegato a GND ... facendo un bel corto e bruciando il pin ::)

Per sicurezza, in questi casi, è sempre bene mettere tra i pin che vengono collegati a GND o Vcc, una resistenza da 220Ω così da limitare, in caso di errore (pin messo come OUTPUT ad un livello e collegato ad un altro), la corrente che scorre.

Deutsch / Re: ATmega328P-UP als Standalo...
Last post by uxomm - Today at 03:52 pm
Ich bin derzeit beim Bau einer Uhr ähnlich dieser:   „"

Das ist ja eine sehr nette Idee.
Mir stellt sich allerdings die Frage: Wie genau kann man die Minuten ablesen bei so einem Display.
Ich würde sagen +/-1 Minute ist recht optimistisch geschätzt.
Eine DS3231 läuft meiner Erfahrung nach pro Jahr nur um ein paar Sekunden falsch. Wozu also der große Aufwand mit der DCF77-Synchronisation?
Auch wird sich wohl wenig Zeit zum Schlafen ausgehen, wenn ständig das analoge Anzeigeinstrument (wahrscheinlich mit PWM) angesteuert werden muss.

Nur so meine Gedanken...  :)
ok, to begin with, *forget* the motion sensor and anything like an arduino completely.

Now, use your fans or other motor, or devices to create the *desired* visual effect.  To get a billowing effect with fans will require - as you pint out low rpm, but also large volume of airflow == big mutha fans!

For example, the motion may look best with two fans workings different speeds in different ways for different durations.  Perhaps adding your 'stick' in some way to enhance the visual effect... (and more)

Once you know *what* the desired outcome is, we can work toward making it happen.  Just throwing parts at the canvas without a preconceived expectation will create a bunch of parts and a piece of canvas.
Sensors / Re: Bourns 3590S-2-103L, 10 kO...
Last post by adwsystems - Today at 03:51 pm
I was wired to an expansion board, where each of the analog pins has their own power pins. The board is like this:
This does not show how you connected. This may be moot is the part was defective in the first place.

That's good to hear.

I am intending to activate the stepper motors using a PIR motion sensor.

It runs on a variable voltage between 3v-6v. It says its source current up to 12 mA @ 3 V, 23 mA @ 5 V. Do you think it will still be ok to supply power to the pir and the 6 pins on both motor drivers? I have attached the datasheet for the sensor.

I have read that when using many stepper motor drivers, one should use a capacitor close to the driver on the motor power supply to help with any spikes. I can't work out if its best to do this when using the TB6600?

One final thing, I'm planning on wiring the arudino board and driver in close proximity, but would like to have the stepper motors around 3metres away from the arduino board and driver. Do you think I might encounter any problems wiring the stepper motors 3metres away from the drivers?

Many thanks
const int LED = 9; // the pin for the LED
const int BUTTON = 7; // input pin of the pushbutton

int val = 0;         // stores the state of the input pin

int old_val = 0; //stores the previous state of 'val'
int state = 0; //0 = LED off while 1 = LED on

int brightness = 128; //Stores the brightness value
unsigned long startTime = 0; // when did we begin pressing?

void setup() {
  pinMode(LED, OUTPUT); //tell Arduino LED is an output
  pinMode(BUTTON, INPUT); //and BUTTON is an input

void loop() {

  val = digitalRead(BUTTON); //read input value and store it

  //check if there was a transition
  if ((val == HIGH) && (old_val == LOW)) {

    state = 1 - state; //change the state from off to on or vice versa

    startTime = millis(); //millis() is the Arduino clock, it returns how many ms have passed since the board has been reset

    // (this line remembers when the button was last pressed)

  //check whether the button is being held down
    if ((val == HIGH) && (old_val == HIGH)) {

    //If the button is held for more than 500ms
      if (state == 1 && (millis() - startTime) > 500) {

      brightness++; //increment brightness by 1
      delay(10);    //delay to avoid brightness going too fast

      if (brightness > 255) { //255 is the max brightness

        brightness = 0; //if we go over 255 let's go back to 0

  old_val = val; //val is now old, let's store it

  if (state == 1) {
    analogWrite(LED, brightness); //turn LED ON at the current brightness level

  } else {
    analogWrite(LED, 0); //turn LED OFF

Hi there, I'm a newbie going through the beginner's handbook following this script, which makes a LED light gradually brighten as you hold down a pushbutton. It works perfectly, but I'm struggling to understand how Arduino knows that 'state' means whether the LED is on or off when it was never associated with the LED in the code? Many thanks!
It works on different PC. this same code with the same baud
And I have checked that serial monitor is working with "hello world"

only after that it stays blank. as posted above.

Are there other drivers which can solve the "USB 2.0 Serial" problem?
Deutsch / Re: Zugriff auf COM - Anschlus...
Last post by temucin - Today at 03:47 pm
Also ein kleines Programm das die Daten von einem ComPort zum anderen überträgt kann ich dir schreiben. Ist eigentlich ganz einfach. Dann kannst du den Arduino direkt an den PC anschliessen und den Scanner ebenfals. Aber mir erschliest sich der sinn nicht.

Gruss Temucin
Displays / Re: Digital and binary clock f...
Last post by RossAnderson - Today at 03:47 pm
I posted a new thread because I didn't see a way to post the code in the reply. Apologies for that.
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