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1  Using Arduino / General Electronics / Re: Arduino Micro voltage requirements on: July 29, 2014, 09:51:20 pm
The Jameco ReliaPro UL Listed DC converter (rated at 6VDC, 800 mA) delivered 8.0 V. 
The DC converter rated at 12V delivered 8.5 V under load and the one rated at 9V also delivered 8.5 V under load.
Assuming your 750mA load, nothing here matches up with what is expected.  Except that I would expect a 800mA rated supply to be in regulation, not wildly out of it.

3)  The 7805 voltage regulator is described here:
A TO-220 package can handle SIGNIFICANTLY more current than the tiny sot-23 package used on the Arduino board....

Oh, dear, In the process of measuring the current and voltage, I bypassed the voltage regulator in order to reproduce the erratic behavior that I described previously.  I, um,  fried my Arduino Micro.
Changing connections (including measurements) should not be done while the board is powered.  If you're moving probes around while powered, your attenshion (your eyes) should 110% be focused on where the leads are going.

Yes, I know, the Arduino Micro max current is 50 mA.
I'm not sure where you got that from.  The max current that the 3.3V rail is rated for is (erroneously) 50mA.  (It's actually 150mA).

The 5V rail is rated for whatever you can draw until it shuts down, and that depends on Vin.

 However, let's keep in mind that this current is not going through the Arduino (see schematic). 
I'm confused.  Has this been your setup the entire time, or just after adding your own regulator?
2  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: Arduino Programs on: July 29, 2014, 10:12:51 am
It is a cool effort, nice job.  Reminds me of playing breakout on my Ti-85.

I would suggest a different name... might cause some confusion.  (Don't you even say in your video it isn't based on the Gameduino)

Clevel concept of the "Guess the Numbers" game.  Like that.
3  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: Internal pullups not working? on: July 28, 2014, 10:03:56 pm
finally the internal pull-up sketch and that didn't work
A clear picture of your wiring would be helpful.  Maybe also a schematic (hand drawn okay).

Also, sometimes nice to see the code to make sure you aren't inadvertently turning the resistor off somewhere (see below for test.)

(wiring for that one is pretty simple, so I'm fairly sure that's not the culprit).
You'd be surprised.  New users always want to blame the hardware... smiley-wink

Now, I'm wondering: are there any more troubleshooting options?
Use a simple sketch to turn on the pull-up and measure the pin with a mulitmeter.

void setup() {
   pinMode(2, INPUT_PULLUP);

void loop() {}

Use your multimeter to test the voltage of the pin with the pull-up on.  Disconnect your button or any other hardware.  Although, you might need to add a piece of wire or trace back to the pin on the ATmega328.  I wouldn't trust just "sticking your probe" into the pin header of the Arduino.

If you measure 5V (or whatever you 5V pin is at), the pull-up is working fine.
4  Using Arduino / Programming Questions / Re: #include doesn't seem to register on: July 28, 2014, 09:55:39 pm
I vaguely recall a similar sounding bug.

Do you have anything else before the include?  Like a #define?

Try adding one (or more) blank lines before the #include.
5  Using Arduino / Installation & Troubleshooting / Re: question about UNO board component on: July 28, 2014, 09:52:54 pm
I think most people look at it and say "it looks exactly the same", I look at it and spot the differences:
  • Font silkscreen is wrong
  • Soldermask is wrong shade of blue
  • Power and Pin 13 should be orange/amber, not red.
  • TX / RX should be yellow, not green.
  • The Polyfuse should be more gold and not at all green
  • There shouldn't be silkscreen for a through-hole crystal next to the ATmega328.
  • The ICSP header next to the 8u2 isn't normally populated.
  • "Made in Italy" is missing.

This clone design is based on the original R1.
6  Using Arduino / Installation & Troubleshooting / Re: question about UNO board component on: July 28, 2014, 09:28:18 pm
It's not an official Uno.

The silkscreen is the dead giveaway.  It's a vector font, instead of the clean "proportional" font that the official silkscreens use.  There's a number of other telltales as well.  I use to have an annotated Flickr image, but looks like Flickr disabled that feature.

Are your LEDs Red?  smiley-wink
7  Using Arduino / Installation & Troubleshooting / Re: programmer is not responding arduino uno Mac OS X on: July 28, 2014, 08:55:25 pm
Did you remember to hit "Send"?
8  Using Arduino / General Electronics / Re: Arduino Micro voltage requirements on: July 28, 2014, 05:51:56 pm
(rated: 9 VDC 500 mA, actual: 8.8 VDC by multimeter),
(rated: 12 VDC, 1000 mA, actual: 12.3 VDC)
 (rated at 6VDC, 800 mA, actual: 10.5 VDC by multimeter
When you measured these, were they connected to the Arduino?  Measuring a switching supply like (or any supply actually) without a load, doesn't give a proper view of the voltage.  In the case of a switching regulator, there is generally a minimum load required before the supply goes into regulation.  (In the case of something like batteries, the voltage will drop do to its internal resistance.)

the LEDs follow the sketch for about 5 seconds and then it freaks out: the LEDs flash very rapidly and randomly and eventually stop altogether.  
It would probably be a good idea to figure out how much current your project is drawing.  Its very likely that there is enough current that the on-board regulator is heating up and going into shut down, causing the strange behaviors.

OK, the solution was to solder in a 5 V voltage regulator (L7805CV) onto the project circuit board
This also supports the over current idea.  What package size is the regulator you added?
9  Using Arduino / General Electronics / Re: Serial Issue on: July 28, 2014, 05:45:15 pm
Not sure what you are trying to show in the pictures.  It doesn't look like the Arduino(s?) is connected to anything.

The problem is that i'm sending info with Mega and i know that Mega send the info ok

.But when i connect RX HM10 with TX MEGA the serial port stop working.
How do you know?

I think is something like a full buffer or something like this.
The Serial/UART based transmissions don't acknowledge the transmission.  So the Arduino sends everything regardless of what is connected.

when i connect TX0 to HM10 module the TX led of the Arduino turn off.
The TX and RX LEDs on the Arduino are driven by the USB to Serial chip, not the ATmega2560 (or ATmega328) chip.  So if you're communicating over Serial with another device, the TX and RX lights won't matter, since the USB to Serial Chip won't be active.

Why not use one of the Mega's other Serial ports so your communication isn't messed up by the on-board usb to serial chip?
10  Using Arduino / General Electronics / Re: Power leaking from fan supply to arduino? on: July 28, 2014, 10:33:56 am
Fritzing isn't the best tool for this, a photo of a hand sketch is often much better smiley
Fritzing "diagrams" would be far more useful if people posted the Fritzing file, instead of a picture.   However, no one that uses Fritzing does.
11  Using Arduino / General Electronics / Re: Ground loops / High-Low frequencies on: July 28, 2014, 10:31:33 am
Well what I meant is, how do i know if the arduino can handle all this current, at one point daisy chaining wouldn't work..
I read online that people have issues that start some where along the linesof the 6th daisy chained TLC..
That's why I asked... smiley-wink  On  a small PCB like yours, you won't see an issue with the TLCs.  I think what happens in larger projects is that poor wiring is used, dropping VCC down to an unusable amount for the TLCs "down the chain." 

my source voltage is supposed to be 5v after it was regulated by a switching regulator (7805), is there any effect to a current if need to be "constant" and my voltage regulator is "switching"?
Don't get linear vs switching confused with "constant voltage/current." 

In theory, you could use an unregulated voltage source with the LED's connected to the TLC's output channels.  The channels will vary their resistance so that the LED gets its forward voltage, while the rest is dropped across its driver.  (That's how it creates the "constant current".  They are like variable resistors.)
12  Topics / Science and Measurement / Re: Calculating Power Factor Using ARDUINO UNO on: July 28, 2014, 10:26:39 am
That's a pretty common calculation.  Why are you looking for something specific to Arduino?
13  Using Arduino / Installation & Troubleshooting / Re: Duemilanove Bootloader on Uno Board on: July 28, 2014, 10:17:00 am
The "board" menu in the IDE can be misleading sometimes.  Really, it is referring to what bootloader will avrdude be talking to.  So if you put a Duemilanove bootloaded chip on an Uno board, you just turned the Uno into a "Duemilanove" board.  (And vice versa.)
14  Using Arduino / Installation & Troubleshooting / Re: Unable to load Program to arduino uno (Board at COM1 is not available) win 8.1 on: July 28, 2014, 10:14:57 am
I bought an arduino uno.
From where?

In the device manager, it shows "Prolific USB to serial COM port (COM4)" (snapshot attached)
Either you bought a knock-off Arduino Uno, or this device isn't the Arduino.

No Arduino uses a Prolific chipset.  If your board has the CP2102 (guessing its that one), you'll need to get the drivers from Prolific.

I also connect my
Your what?
15  Using Arduino / Installation & Troubleshooting / Re: programmer is not responding arduino uno Mac OS X on: July 28, 2014, 10:09:59 am
which ground do i connect reset to?

Doesn't matter.  Ground is ground.
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