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1  Using Arduino / Displays / Re: Weird Large CCFL 256x128 display (PB - PG256128 - D) on: April 05, 2011, 03:46:55 pm
I just found out that this display can be used with a SED133F chip!

Now its time to hook all of that up!
2  Using Arduino / Displays / Weird Large CCFL 256x128 display (PB - PG256128 - D) on: April 05, 2011, 10:51:23 am
Hi, I picked up a couple of these at work in the parts-trash bin as they had small scratches on the casing and it is a display used in some of my companies products. (I love this aspect of my job, all the parts I can pull from scrap!)

I guess like most of the stuff they use, this one is a bit off. However, it is the largest GLCD (12.8cm x 6.8cm viewable) with a bight backlight (CCFL) I have seen and the quality is amazingly high. I would like to use it in my Home Theater setup because of these properties. I already have a flyback converter that can drive the CCFL, might also show a 555 timer circuit capable of the same...anyway....

Here is the datasheet: http://www.sendspace.com/file/2sk51b

It is a 4-bit parallel display that uses
 - IT7001m for latching http://www.tcclcd.com/newsimg%5C58.pdf
 - LA6324 for driving http://www.onsemi.com/pub_link/Collateral/LA6324NM-D.PDF
 - SDN8080 for segment control http://www.tianma-usa.com/web/uploads/controller/20080323003315_SDN8080G_V6_Sep_28_2005.pdf
 

Anyone seen another display like this? If so can you point me in the right direction? Which code library would be closest for me to mod to my specifications?

I haven't seen any other 4-wire parallel graphic displays before, and I am willing that a lot of other people have not either.
3  Community / Exhibition / Gallery / quick beginners project - Quiz Game Lock-out controllers on: April 04, 2011, 02:33:18 pm
This project was literally done in less time than it took to put this post together. Program, circuit, reverse engineering and building took about 2 hours while watching comedy shows so it should take less than that!
No Dremel or real electrical knowledge required. LCD is there because I have it pretty much attached to the board. For more projects like this, my personal blog is DoesitPew.blogspot.com

I made this for a class that my boyfriend was teaching at Northwestern for mostly kids in the Chicago Public School system about GAME SHOWS! We wanted to have the kids play plenty of them so that they can win cash (we had about $500 we were ready to give away) or Fabulous funny Prizes from the Dollar Store for just participating like the item below or books like "Fails to Meet Expectations" all in good fun. If you would like digital copies of the games we played (all programmed by Stev-o of Stev-o.us) which can be made with any questions or prizes listed on the screen just like the originals (Assasin, Survey Says, Lucky Roller, Joker's Crazy Slots, etc. *names changed due to licencing*) please contact Stev-o at Stev-o.us and they must be used for non-profit or family fun!

Back to the controller...

Parts:
 - BreadBoard
 - Precut Wire package
 - 4 long pieces of 2 Channel Wire ( I used old cut up headphone cables)
 - 4 resistors of anywhere from 10k-100k value will work
 - 4 resistors of 3k-10k depending on brightness desired
 - 4 LEDs you have laying around
 - One Arduino Board or MSP430 using EasyMSP
 - 4 EasyButtons from Staples (can also use push lamps from the dollar store)
- Computer with USB (program also spits back out which player clicked in first).

Cost ranges from $20 - 50 depending on what you have on hand. I had all of this at home and most other parts can be bought at RadioShack or even Ace Hardware or all pieces from Adafruit or Sparkfun.

Circuits


Inside of the EasyButton


Wire Hookups

*Now just screw it back together and be careful about the capacitor discharge, so be sure to plug it in with the capacitor line not being connected to the + voltage.*

Pictures of the Working Item!


Download the software:
http://www.sendspace.com/file/4mpr2y

You can Add a buzzer using the tone command and one of the free PWM pins, but I didn't just because of the noise level in the room would have made it not loud enough. Use an old headphone speaker or good one out of a broken pair. Reseting the system is just using the RESET pin on the Arduino Board. Please do not mind the quick and dirty code format.....it didn't have to be perfect, just work!
Code:
/*
  EasyButton Game Controller

  This code is used to make your own buzzer control for your own at home games

  Microcontroller used is an Arduino core on an ATMega (can be used with EASYMSP code as well with minor translation)
 
  Program does give preferance to player by number, but if two people manage to press at the same time within less
  than a microsecond, I say give it to them!
  This is completly Open Source Code and Open Source Hardware
  Property of StacyD at doesitpew.blogspot.com 2011

  Schematic also available at Doesitpew.Blogspot.com
 */


//Define the Buttons

//button input pins (digital)
int b1 = 9;
int b2 = 8;
int b3 = 7;
int b4 = 6;

//button status
int bu1 = 0;
int bu2 = 0;
int bu3 = 0;
int bu4 = 0;

//led outout pins(digital)
int l1 = 5;
int l2 = 4;
int l3 = 3;
int l4 = 2;

//Status of whether or not a button has been pressed
int hold = 0;


void setup() {               
  //allows you to see on a computer who buzzed in first
  Serial.begin(9600);
 
 //Lockout Status LED pin with is statndard on the Arduino Board(s)
  pinMode(13, OUTPUT);
 
  //Button inputs defined
  pinMode(b1, INPUT);
  pinMode(b2, INPUT);
  pinMode(b3, INPUT);
  pinMode(b4, INPUT);
 
  //LED outout Pins defined
  pinMode(l1, OUTPUT);
  pinMode(l2, OUTPUT);
  pinMode(l3, OUTPUT);
  pinMode(l4, OUTPUT);
 
  //The delay allows time for the voltage to stabilize (exp. because the electronics are not removed from the buttons!)
  delay(1000);
}

void loop() {
 
  //Read to see if a button is pushed
  if(hold == 0){
    bu1 = digitalRead(b1);
    bu2 = digitalRead(b2);
    bu3 = digitalRead(b3);
    bu4 = digitalRead(b4);
 
  //If the status of any of the Buttons has changed to being pulled low
  //lockout the other users and light up the appropriate button
   
    //player 1
    if(bu1 == 0){
      digitalWrite(l1, HIGH);
      hold = 1; //lockout the other users
      Serial.println("Player 1");
    }
    //player 2
    if(bu2 == 0){
      digitalWrite(l2, HIGH);
      hold = 1; //lockout the other users
      Serial.println("Player 2");
    }
    //player 3
    if(bu3 == 0){
      digitalWrite(l3, HIGH);
      hold = 1; //lockout the other users
      Serial.println("Player 3");
    }
    //player 4
    if(bu4 == 0){
      digitalWrite(l4, HIGH);
      hold = 1; //lockout the other users
      Serial.println("Player 4");
    }
  }
  else{
    digitalWrite(13, HIGH);   // set the LED on to indicate that the other users are locked out
  }
}
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4  Forum 2005-2010 (read only) / Exhibition / Re: arduino audio controller in *stereophile* magazine on: January 20, 2011, 01:05:51 pm
Nicely done Brian!

Yeah, AMB's workmanship are top notch! I know he likes FrontPanelExpress  and it looks like he used one of the Chinese enclosures for the base instead of a Pars. Very Clean! Been really meaning to ask where he gets his boards done because they seem to be reasonably priced and fantastic quality. I have been using the SeeedStudio or BatchPCB service ad while nice are no comparison to the beauty of those AMB boards.

You might want to seriously look into using one of the I/O expander ports and connecting in to the TPA Buffalo or Opus to enable the digital filters. The code is simple enough, but an easy connection module would likely do a lot to make it easy on the non-coders.

If you want to do an android app that controls over Wifi, let me know. I can certainly get a good start on that since I have been wanting to do it for AMPs?DAC's to converge everything.

Another possibility of a cool module is a set of digital potentiometers that could snap in for the trim pots in the AMB designs. Use an A/D tied in with voltage tolerance so that you could have a dynamically adjusting amplifier. This would be VERY cool for the Beta22 for those of use using it as a low-imp, high-imp, and speaker amp - plus it could account for drift. This board could have helped when my left amp board blew and caught fire (same spot as a few other people). It would be insurance that also ensured the best possible SQ.

All the Best man! You certainly do keep up the good work!

The Spec issue.... yes I understand. Most of the time, audio is not limited by the hardware, but by the software. You need to remember that every bit of mastering takes something out, especially in the digital game.  God forbid though to many audiophiles that you use software to your advantage to fix something. I mean, do you think that PSA or Meridian is NOT using software to make it sound better? C'mon.

There really is no need to use the 0.1% or 0.5% resistors in many cases and a LOT of the audio game is all about overkill. I can see how someone may really want an R-2R ladder if you want to make a custom set of impedances, but why not just go with one of the REALLY nice digital pots from TI or Maxim? Most are SPI and the ones that use digital serial are pretty easy to make your own interacting protocol (done it). If your amp draws 2A, why always make PSU's with 50 filters and running up to 15A? There are a Million headphone amps doing this right now and someone put it in their heads that because a headphone amp that only needs to drive at most 100mA/channel should be using an 1amp or more of power. Some have also forgotten that simple is sometimes the best and that a clean, accurate simple circuit will beat an overly complicated design any day (tube and hybrid designs show this all the time).  

Headphones do show the details, much better than speakers do. I have the Stax, CD3K, and the AKG's (had the HD580's - just were not my favorites). in those cases, headphones are extremely sensitive to noise floors and ground loops (however small) because of the sensitivity and well, just how intimate your head is with the transducers. Only really use them at work now though...

Still, keep working at it!

5  Forum 2005-2010 (read only) / Exhibition / Re: audiophile preamp + i/o selector (LCD, IR, relays) on: November 08, 2010, 02:46:09 pm
Way to go LinuxWorks! I have been a follower of your arduino projects for about 2 years now after that first head-fi post.

I have been out of the audio game for a while (at least for posting). It is great that you guys are offering up a Stepper, since the TPA Joshua Tree has been the only thing out for a while and yours seems to have more to interface to? Gotta love the Sigma22 PSU, it is such a beast!

BTW guys, the AMB boards are TOP NOTCH! I have built a few of his designs including the venerable Beta22.  

In the furture it might be nice to offer up a GLCD LCDuino. I ended up not going with an LCDuino because I wanted it to make analog meters on the display as well as system information. The Topway LM12864LDW works pretty darn well and isn't too expensive, but it does use a lot of I/O (which is why the Mega might be a better choice).

Also, it would be pretty sweet to make a ATTINY based SMD Potentiometer w/ 64 steps. This would be a cheap volume controller for small portable amplifiers or MilletMax. You could probably fit it in the space of a normal Alps Blue spot and just put some Voltage and ISP headers on there for re-programming. Then give people the choice of using the mono cheapo potentiometer of their choice for control (including the little slider ones... want for my stamp-amp *smd op-amp based about the size of a stamp 3.3v*).

All the best and GREAT WORK!



6  Forum 2005-2010 (read only) / Bar Sport / Re: What was your first OS? on: May 05, 2010, 10:45:51 am
Windows 3.1

DOS DOS baby!

Yeah - im really not that old (20's) - we just we the early adopter type of family, plus my dad was in the tech industry....

Aww man - I really do miss Sam and Max. Mad eme angry when Win95 came out and I couldn't get it to run correctly.
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