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601  Using Arduino / Installation & Troubleshooting / Re: FTDI basic & serial upload to atmega328P boarduino on: July 25, 2012, 11:47:31 pm
My bad on the Rx confusion.  Yes, if your board is *NOT* ready, it will blink on the FTDI 3x and timeout.  I spent a week learning the *manual* triggering process.  I was just ruling that out.

Okay, sanity check.  Look through this document and let me know what does not look right:
http://dlnmh9ip6v2uc.cloudfront.net/datasheets/Kits/RedBoardBreadboard%20Assembly%20Guide-20120328_readerspreads_web.pdf

Finally, after you burn your bootloader, do you have an LED on the board to execute the "Blink" sketch and does it blink (Built-in to the Bootload Process)?  You should have a blinking LED at the end if your board is bootloaded properly(Okay, I have Breadboard 1284p(s) that HATE Optiboot and will blink, but you can not communicate with FTDI).

If this is OK, then we will need to go back to bootloader.  Optiboot can have issues.  If you bootload with the non-Uno bootloaders, you can eliminate the Optiboot issue.

I will see if I can find some *actual* board layouts for you to review.
602  Using Arduino / Microcontrollers / Re: ATMEGA328 on breadboard programming problem on: July 25, 2012, 11:07:08 pm
Hmmm... quite an array you have there.

Does the reset pin have a resistor and a capacitor on it (can't see).

16MHz Resonator as opposed to 16MHz Crystal with caps or internal 8MHz?
603  Using Arduino / Installation & Troubleshooting / Re: FTDI basic & serial upload to atmega328P boarduino on: July 25, 2012, 10:14:59 pm
... I'm willing to ship you my favorite high gravity lager as a thank you for successfully helping.

any thoughts?

Ummm... high gravity... cold ferment... Yum.

Okay, try this before we go through the list.  Find blink again and upload to the "boarduino" (I assume it is a Breadboard Arduino and not Lady Ada's "Boarduino").  When the IDE goes through the verification process, put your finger on the reset button (don't push it yet) and watch for the "Binary Sketch Size" to pop up in the terminal window, then look at your FTDI leds and push the reset button.  Watch the Rx leds for two pulses andthen release the reset button.  Does the Tx kick in?
604  Using Arduino / Installation & Troubleshooting / Re: Uno not responding on: July 25, 2012, 09:49:22 pm
Installing drivers for the Arduino Uno with Windows7, Vista, or XP:

Plug in your board and wait for Windows to begin it's driver installation process.  After a few moments, the process will fail, despite its best efforts

Click on the Start Menu, and open up the Control Panel.

While in the Control Panel, navigate to System and Security. Next, click on System. Once the System window is up, open the Device Manager.

Look under Ports (COM & LPT).  You should see an open port named "Arduino UNO (COMxx)"

Right click on the "Arduino UNO (COmxx)" port and choose the "Update Driver Software" option.

Next, choose the "Browse my computer for Driver software" option.

Finally, navigate to and select the Uno's driver file, named "ArduinoUNO.inf", located in the "Drivers" folder of the Arduino Software download (not the "FTDI USB Drivers" sub-directory).

Windows will finish up the driver installation from there.

http://arduino.cc/en/Guide/Windows
605  Using Arduino / Microcontrollers / Re: problems programming standalone 328 on: July 25, 2012, 09:30:43 pm
I dunno cyclegadget, my boards and the schematic (Arduino Pro, virtually a breadboard Arduino) show on the FTDI header (JP5) the Tx<->Rx and Rx<->Tx crossover.
http://arduino.cc/en/uploads/Main/Arduino-Pro-schematic.pdf

Reversing them (Tx<->Tx, etc) give me sync errors.

 I am speaking of my CP2102 USB to Uart board connecting to a small Arduino 328. I just now tested my board again to make sure I was telling you the truth.
Also here is a link to a person that connected his/her board the same way except without the capacitor on DTR. http://blog.tarn-vedra.de/2011/09/using-cp2102-on-arduino.html


 By the way, I just wanted to let you know what is working for me and I don't wish to lead you the wrong way.


I apologize for doubting your understanding of this board.  I have a very similar board with the CP2102 as well, and it crosses Rx/Tx.  It is understandable now that "BAITE" silked the board backwards of convention (Receiving from Transmitter and vice versa).

I was a little worried reading such "crazy talk" from you though smiley-razz  Order is restored.
606  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: Arduino prank ideas - please post your ideas! on: July 25, 2012, 06:47:19 pm
Not too much fun as a project, but a cricket sound that plays every 5 minutes from a desk drawer could be fun.
607  Using Arduino / Installation & Troubleshooting / Re: Breadboarduino on: July 25, 2012, 05:53:12 pm
A little more information would be helpful.

Either your bootloader did not take (No blink from D13/PB5 when powered) or communication issues with the USB/TTL device (reset cap not installed).  Both of those will produce your error and vastly different solutions.
608  Using Arduino / Microcontrollers / Re: problems programming standalone 328 on: July 25, 2012, 11:44:20 am
I dunno cyclegadget, my boards and the schematic (Arduino Pro, virtually a breadboard Arduino) show on the FTDI header (JP5) the Tx<->Rx and Rx<->Tx crossover.
http://arduino.cc/en/uploads/Main/Arduino-Pro-schematic.pdf

Reversing them (Tx<->Tx, etc) give me sync errors.
609  Using Arduino / Microcontrollers / Re: problems programming standalone 328 on: July 25, 2012, 11:11:21 am

However, I still have a big puzzle here: 'Cyclegadget' recommends Rx to RX and Tx to Tx,
but the schematic for the 'Minimal Arduino' shows Rx to Tx and vice-versa. Who do I believe?

bruce

My Breadboard Arduino is FTDI Tx to Atmega PD0(Pin 2/RXD) and FTDI Rx to Atmega PD1 (Pin 3/TXD).
610  Using Arduino / General Electronics / Re: Passive Vs Active decoupling on: July 25, 2012, 10:57:57 am
I have a diode where my power enters the board, why do you think a diode will help ?

Duane B

rcarduino.blogspot.com

I am just trying to figure out how that 7805 is attenuating the noise from your 555.  My thought was putting a diode on the 555 pin 8 after any junctions.

I assume your 555 circuit is similar to this:



The only thing I could observe on the 7805 (unpowered) is ~1 volt difference on Vout switching directions and 5.7kohm (no difference in direction).  Pretty much throws a wrench into my theory.  You have quite an enigma wrapped in bacon smiley-wink

611  Using Arduino / General Electronics / Re: Passive Vs Active decoupling on: July 25, 2012, 09:31:01 am

I have a solution, its the 7805, but if I had a scope I would still be working on a passive approach.


rcarduino.blogspot.com

Have you tried a 1N4001 diode in place of the 7805?
612  Using Arduino / Microcontrollers / Re: problems programming standalone 328 on: July 25, 2012, 09:13:35 am
Also, since you are not getting Rx/Tx blinks, here is the link to the CP210x vcp drivers:

http://www.silabs.com/products/mcu/pages/usbtouartbridgevcpdrivers.aspx
613  Using Arduino / General Electronics / Re: Counter EMF Protection on: July 25, 2012, 12:29:27 am
Okay, I understand now.  This Toshiba chip is oddly robust for how ridiculously small it is.  Just as Doc has suggested, your mileage may vary.

Since this chip has no thermal protection other than the package and 175C overtemp circuit, the "paste" or "tape" is irrelevant.  All you want to do is protect the MCU from the "EMF" or current backlash (AC) from the motor(s).  Doc may have some suggestions better than my 1N4001 diode on your PWM output, but I do believe you are on your own on such a small device (298s or 293s have much more built into the device).  Maybe somebody can suggest where to put the diode to get your reverse back smiley-wink
614  Using Arduino / General Electronics / Re: Counter EMF Protection on: July 24, 2012, 11:04:29 pm
Does it act as the "glue" as well?


No, you will need a nut a bolt.  It very, very slowly dries out (good thing).  You would still need a nut and bolt to make the tape work.  The important thing is to make good thermal contact with the most surface.

Radioshack has this online which I repaired an overheating Mac with:

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=11300878

Same stuff that gets an extra amp or two out of my full bridge drivers.
615  Using Arduino / General Electronics / Re: Counter EMF Protection on: July 24, 2012, 10:27:51 pm
I would recommend a thermal "paste" (for notebook heat sinks and high power graphic card heat sinks).  The tape will not make the best contact between the two planes (heatsink and device flange).  If sparkfun does not have it, your local computershop will.  Just look for the stuff with "silver" in it.
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