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1066  Using Arduino / Displays / Re: LCD not working with arduino powered on: September 10, 2013, 01:56:37 am
Were you give any kind of wiring layout, what wire goes where, or are you looking at other LCD wiring diagrams?

How about this, if you just connect the voltage lines, and screen contrast line, do you see the 16x2 boxes?

Added:
Do a search for the LCD part number, and take a look at the PDF file.
1067  Using Arduino / Displays / Re: LCD not working with arduino powered on: September 10, 2013, 12:48:50 am
That looks like either bad or loose wiring, check all your connects again. Make sure they are nice and solid.

However, that is just a guess. If you have a data sheet on the LCD, please provided it.
1068  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: Self-leveling table on: September 09, 2013, 02:04:22 pm
Gyroscope + accelerometer.
1069  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: Shooting range controller on: September 09, 2013, 12:54:06 pm
You don't need to test all of it, just a few on a breadboard.
1070  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: Shooting range controller on: September 09, 2013, 11:49:30 am
Well if its leaking current then I agree with Tom, those Electrolytic capacitors are known to leak, so by adding a 0.1uf or a 0.47uf parallel to them, it might help with leak.

Another thing that it could be, is maybe something is back feeding. What you could try is have a diode in parallel with those 10k resistors. One other thing, try adding a 4k7 pull up resistor to relay terminals 1 & 3.

Try that and let us know what you find.
1071  Using Arduino / Programming Questions / Re: Programming - Where do I start? on: September 08, 2013, 07:19:27 pm
If you have a RadioShack nearby, see if it sells Arduino kits. They come with a lot of great components and they are perfect to start with. The Arduino IDE has plenty of example scripts(codes) you can play with and get to learn the language.

Understanding and writing code, is actually quite easy. I always tell people to think aloud about what you want to do, then see what you have at your disposal.

Example:
I want my LED to turn ON for 5 seconds then OFF for 2 seconds, then repeat.

(I put it in quote tags to use the bold and color options)
Quote
byte LED = 13; //Declare what pin your LED is set to, in this case were going to use the onboard LED on pin 13

void setup() //You must have the setup function in your code. **What ever is in this function will only happen once when Arduino has power
{
  pinMode(LED, OUTPUT); //You want to control this LED with the Arduino, so you want the pin to be set as an OUTPUT
} //End of Setup function

void loop() //Again, this is a must have, even if you don't use it. This function will constantly loop when the Arduino has power
{
 digitalWrite(LED, HIGH); //tell pin 13 to be set HIGH
 
 delay(5000); //This function is in milliseconds, so 5000 milliseconds = 5 seconds.
 
 digitalWrite(LED, LOW); //After the 5 second delay is done, this will turn the LED OFF

 delay(2000); //a 2000 milliseconds = 2 second delay

 //Once the 2 second delay is done, the loop will start over.
} //End of Loop function
 
1072  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: Shooting range controller on: September 08, 2013, 04:08:50 pm
Code:
if (digitalRead(switch)) {
//do something funny-er
}
1073  Topics / Robotics / Re: 2 motors controlled by one joystick on: September 07, 2013, 05:06:16 pm
I'm new to this but I want to achieve something similar but a little less complicated, well in my mind it is . I'm usig a single joystick and 2 motors for an underwater ROV project. Along the y axis its pretty straight foward. stick up both motors full speed fwd, stick down both motors full speed rev and everything in between. Lets call the motors M1 and M2. when i'm refering to the speed of the motors I will just say that full fwd speed is +127, 0 is off and full rev is -127.  If that should be different let me know, but for now thats burned into my mind. Ok fwd and rev are cake, turning isn't that hard either. if the joystick is all the way left then m1 is -127 and m2 is +127. if the joystick is half left then m1 is -63 and m2 is +63.

Programming this alone doesn't seem that difficult  but when i want to turn while moving forward... joystick all the way to the left and up M1 is 0 and m2 is +127

I have no Idea where to start with this but If it cant happen i can just use two sticks.


It is possible to do with one stick and this post has a few solutions on it already. But if your still having trouble, post what you have already and we will see what we can do.
1074  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: Need Some Advice On Simple Robotics Project on: September 06, 2013, 11:41:46 am
Ok, now we need to think about this a little more.

That course does have tight turns, so that type of chassis will be needed. (4 wheels = more stability, but 2 wheels = better turning).

Now the sensor that will be needed if this is going to be automatous:
  2 sensors to detect the walls on the left and right side of the robot. (better if you have two sensor on both sides, it will ensure it is straight without jerking as it centers itself.)
  1 sensor to detect the edge of the gap.
  1 sensor(s) to detect that the robot does not slip/turn off the bridge(if the bridge does not have guides).
  **(you may be able to use the line following technique, just use black tape to make a line on the bridge, and have the robot follow it)
  optional 1 sensor to detect if the bridge has been dropped, or you can just have it time based.

So that's at least 5 sensor, needed to make this work on its own. However if you do a line follower, then you don't need the wall sensors.
Now I don't know how many pins that motor shield takes up, the page doesn't say. But you do have the analog pins you can use, if the motor shield is not using them. Also I just want to address that, that motor shield doesn't have any break out pins, meaning once that shield is on, you can't attach anything on top of it. So I hope you bought a proto shield that will allow you to get to those other pins.

I'm sure there is more to think about, but I can't think of anything else for right now.
1075  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: Need Some Advice On Simple Robotics Project on: September 06, 2013, 11:04:47 am
Its called differential steering, my bad.
1076  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: Need Some Advice On Simple Robotics Project on: September 06, 2013, 10:49:51 am
It has subtraction steering, like a tank.
1077  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: Need Some Advice On Simple Robotics Project on: September 05, 2013, 09:46:56 pm
Well aside from what ever sensor you will need for the bridge, you will two sensors. One in the front to detect the edge, a ultrasonic distance or IR sensor will work. And if you know the length of the bridge, you can use an encoder to track how far the robot goes compared to the bridge length.
1078  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: Keypad and Stepper on: September 05, 2013, 03:57:27 pm
First things first, you need an encoder. It will keep track of the stepper's position and allow you to step accordingly with new keypad values. Second does one keypad value equal one step? Say you press 3 on the keypad, does that mean the stepper moves 3 steps, or does it move to a certain degree (30 degrees)?

Also, keep everything to one post, no need to make another just for the code.

Edit/Add:
If exact position is not needed, then neither is an encoder. Now using my keypad sketch and the stepper sketch, "MotorKnob" I was able to get the stepper to step depending on the key pressed. For example, when I pressed "1", the stepper moved 1 step every time, "2" = 2 steps, "3" and so on to "9". Now I only made it so that the keypad would get single digits, but I made a sketch in the past that can get up to 9 digits long (a bit excessive for this project). So it should be easy to get say a 3 digit number like "100" and have the stepper move 100 steps.

Here is the sketch I made.
** Please note, the keypad characters were recycled from another sketch, and I am using an I2C LCD, but you can send the data to the serial monitor too.
Code:
/*
 || @version 1.0
 || @author Andrew Mascolo
 ||
 || @description
 || Simple use of keypad, stepper and LCD
 */
#include <Keypad.h>
#include <Wire.h>
#include <LiquidCrystal_I2C.h>
#include <Stepper.h>
Stepper stepper(100, 10, 11, 12, 13);
LiquidCrystal_I2C lcd(0x20,20,4);

char customKey;
const byte ROWS = 4;
const byte COLS = 4;

char keys[ROWS][COLS] = {
  {
    '1','2','3','+'}
  ,
  {
    '4','5','6','-'}
  ,
  {
    '7','8','9','*'}
  ,
  {
    'C','0','=','/'}
};
byte rowPins[ROWS] = {
  2,3,4,5}; //connect to the row pinouts of the keypad
byte colPins[COLS] = {
  9,8,7,6}; //connect to the column pinouts of the keypad

//initialize an instance of class NewKeypad
Keypad customKeypad = Keypad( makeKeymap(keys), rowPins, colPins, ROWS, COLS);

void setup(){
  lcd.init();                      // initialize the lcd
  lcd.backlight();
  stepper.setSpeed(10);
}

void loop(){
  lcd.setCursor(0,0);
  customKey = customKeypad.getKey();
  
  if(customKey) {
    lcd.print(customKey);
    stepper.step(customKey - '0');// this converts the char from the keypad, to an int for the stepper
  }
}
1079  Using Arduino / Programming Questions / Re: Unusual readings trying to use multiple buttons on one analog pin. on: September 04, 2013, 02:53:06 pm
Change that red wire going to the buttons, a resistor. This way you will have a voltage divider and not just a current divider.
1080  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: Need Some Advice On Simple Robotics Project on: September 04, 2013, 12:11:55 am
Well, wide Popsicle sticks are great to build with, especially for small model bridges. Do you need to pick the bridge back up, once you cross it? Anyways, servos and either grippers or electromagnets will do nicely to drop and release the bridge.
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