Show Posts
Pages: 1 [2] 3 4 ... 9
16  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: Cheap connectors to mount cat 5 cables or similar on: December 31, 2013, 02:56:33 am
Hi

I ended up buying those products I posted about on my original post.

Yes the problem was the panel mounting not the connector.

On Ebay there is very little actual useful panel mounting products. Most are PCB based which is fine if you can create your own board and box.

Chris
17  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Cheap connectors to mount cat 5 cables or similar on: December 30, 2013, 05:14:16 pm
I have a project with a small arduino nano and I want to put it into a small plastic box. It will run from USB port and it will allow 4-8 Dallas ds18B20 one wire temperature sensors each on its own cat 5 cable. At the moment I am only allowing 4 connectors since each connector will go to a seperate IO port. I know I can put multiple on a single cable but cable length can be a factor then.

Now the cables connecting to the Ds18B20 is a cheap CAT 5E ethernet cable.

I would want  to have a simple connector to connect each sensor - 3 wires each as they are running in standard mode (not parasitic power).

This seems to be the problem for me as I can find plugs like 3.5mm audio plugs but panel mounted sockets not so simply. I could use RJ45 or RJ11 but again no cheap panel mounts to mount to the plastic case.

I have really only been looking on EBAY as everything in New Zealand is expensive if I look at local electronic stores.

Any ideas of what is a good way to mount this type of setup?

At the moment I am thinking of buying a few of these and cutting the end off so they hang free of the box - cheap at $1 each

http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-5mm-Audio-Earphone-Headphone-Splitter-Cable-Adapter-Jack-Male-to-2-Female-TE-/121199901571?pt=US_Audio_Cables_Adapters&hash=item1c3813bb83#ht_2565wt_1362

and these connectors  10 for $3

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DIY10pcs-3-5MM-Stereo-Audio-Jack-Male-Plug-Adapter-Connector-Solder-Cord-For-MP3-/181124028867?pt=US_Surveillance_Cables_Adapters_Connectors&hash=item2a2bd559c3#ht_3417wt_1124

Any better ideas?

Cheers

Chris
18  Using Arduino / Microcontrollers / Re: How to support Serial Communications on a bare bones arduino on: September 22, 2013, 07:05:31 pm
Thanks Paul

Just what I needed - I forgot about the twist in the RX/TX as well..

Cheers

Chris
19  Using Arduino / Microcontrollers / How to support Serial Communications on a bare bones arduino on: September 22, 2013, 01:49:47 am
I have coded up a circuit using a bare bones Arduino as shown here.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/electronics-photography/other-electronics/electronic-components/other/auction-639497562.htm

I want to send data via a Serial port to a computer.

I have a USB to Serial adapter - Similar to the following

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Serial-Converter-USB-2-0-To-TTL-UART-6PIN-Module-CP2102-PRGMR-/271263175494?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f288b9346#ht_3857wt_1161

Is this enough to support Serial Communications or do I need to do something else?  Sorry for the lack of detail but I really do not know what is required.

Any help appreciated

Chris


20  Using Arduino / General Electronics / Re: CT Clamp and AC to DC on: September 17, 2013, 02:59:23 am
Hi

Are you sure that the voltage is enough to drive the first diode?

My ac voltage from the CT Clamp is only 0.023v for a 1000w load on the CT clamp at 240v.

I do not think this is enough to drive the Diode to rectify the AC signal?

I am going to do some playing around with a Software Circuit Tester to see if this will work.

Chris
21  Using Arduino / General Electronics / Re: CT Clamp and AC to DC on: September 15, 2013, 08:41:29 pm
A colleague at work suggested that maybe a Toroidal current transformer may be a better thing instead of a current clamp since my current is quite small - generally 1000w would be the maximum.

I am going to look into this and see how I get on.

Chris
22  Using Arduino / General Electronics / Re: CT Clamp and AC to DC on: September 15, 2013, 06:52:29 pm
I guess accuracy as good as a plugin power monitor like you can buy for $20 would be good.

Form my simple test with the clamp as I said in the first email I received:

0.023v from 1000w load
0.046v from 2000w load

All I really want to do is convert the small AC to DC and then after that conversion amplify the signal so it is between 0 and 5v - so something like a 100X Multipler.

The article I referred to in the first post http://www.crmagnetics.com/Products/Assets/ProductPDFs/Precision%20Rectifier%20Circuit%20for%20CT%20Signal%20Conditioning.pdf shows the following diagram:



I am just not sure on the final two components a resister and capacitor I assume to filter the signal, but I do not know how to calculate this.

The pdf has this text

  • The CT secondary current is applied to the resistor R1, which generates a voltage equal to the primary current
    divided by the turns ratio and multiplied by the value of R1. This AC voltage is rectified by the first op amp,
    and then amplified by the second op amp.  
  • The gain of the first stage is always kept at 1 or unity (R2 = R3) to guarantee symmetry of the rectified
    waveform. R2 should be chosen at least 10 times greater than R1 for proper accuracy.  
  • The gain of the second stage is R5/R4 + 1. This gain is chosen to get the desired output DC voltage for the
    designed input voltage.  
  • The main advantage of this circuit is the removal of the diode drop as a variance in the signal. DC can be
    generated directly from R1 by applying the AC voltage to a diode bridge. However, the AC voltage required to
    do this must be greater than 2 diode voltage drops, or over 2 VAC. This limits the designer to use a silicon steel
    core that can generate enough voltage before going into saturation. By using the above circuit, the AC voltage
    input can be very low (10-100 mV) and then amplified to the level desired. This then allows the designer to
    choose smaller core devices and nickel core devices which saturate at low voltages. Accuracy and cost are both
    improved.  
  • Use standard op amp design guidelines when setting up this circuit. Keep resistors at 1 M ohm or less, and
    keep gains to 100 or less.  
  • The output must be filtered for pure DC. The RC output network shown should be designed with a time constant
    at least 10 times greater than the period of the waveform sensed. For 60 Hertz, use a time constant of 1/6.
    For 400 Hz, use a time constant of 1/40, minimum.

So for me I am thinking of using

Z1, Z2 = 1N4735A  - not sure if this Zener is OK, 6.2v 1W but I assume it is.

R1 = 10 Ohm
R2 = 100 Ohm
R3 = 100 Ohm
R4 = 1k Ohm
R5 = 100K Ohm (to give a 100 x multipler)

R6 = ?
C1 = ?

Technically with my 100 times multiplier I believe:

0.023v * 100 = 2.3v
0.046v * 100 = 4.6v

So I should be able to read this on an analog in on the arduino?

Chris
23  Using Arduino / General Electronics / Re: CT Clamp and AC to DC on: September 14, 2013, 11:51:08 pm
I am wanting to monitor it over time using my Arduino....

So these devices you refeered me to are good, but I simply want to monitor it using some simple circuit and log it to a database.

Chris
24  Using Arduino / General Electronics / Re: CT Clamp and AC to DC on: September 14, 2013, 11:35:31 pm
Complete control but no knowledge of how much power is consumed!

Since the filters and the air are on 24x7 and the lights are on at 7:15am and off at 8:45pm they are automated.

The heaters are on an off as required to keep the tank warm, which changes per day and per month.

So at the end of the day I am interested in how much this is costing me to keep running not controlling it!

Cheers

Chris
25  Using Arduino / General Electronics / CT Clamp and AC to DC on: September 14, 2013, 09:46:21 pm
Hi

I am wanting to monitor my aquarium power usage, this will be on a New Zealand 230v, 50 hz system. It all runs from a single power point.

In my setup there is the following:

  • 2 Filters - about 10 watts
  • 2 heaters - potentially 600w if both are on
  • Lights
  • Air

So I am wanting to use the CT Clamp with produces via a burden resister an AC voltage.

In my testing with a 1000w/2000w fan heater which would draw close to 5 Amp at 1000w

Now running the heater at 1000w I see an AC voltage of 0.023, if I switch the heat to 2000w it jumps to 0.46 volts AC

I have been looking around and playing with some circuits to try to convert this to DC. At the moment I am running this on a multimeter but I want to use an Arduino to save this data.

Since the voltages are so low what are induced from the CT Clamp I am thinking of a precision rectifier circuit to convert to DC. I would like to make 10amp = 5v.

So 5 amp (heat running at 1000w) = approx 2.5 volts.

Looking at https://www.sparkfun.com/products/11005 there was a comment that pointed to a PDF at http://www.crmagnetics.com/Products/Assets/ProductPDFs/Precision%20Rectifier%20Circuit%20for%20CT%20Signal%20Conditioning.pdf

I have tried to follow along but I am confused.

The diagram mostly makes sense and the description.

But there is a Capacitor and a Resister on the right edge of the diagram that I do not know what to use.

Also the diagram has two inputs from the CT Clamp - but only 1 output - and this confuses me as well.

If I run the LM324 (or LM528 in my case) from 5v so I use the ground from the power supply source?

Chris


26  Using Arduino / Sensors / Re: Trying to control Mitsubishi Heat Pump Air Conditioning Unit on: September 05, 2013, 11:03:37 am
Thanks for the web site - I may look into that.

Cheers

Chris
27  Community / Exhibition / Gallery / Re: Solar power for your arduino on: September 03, 2013, 12:37:21 pm
Great, keep them coming....

Chris
28  Using Arduino / Sensors / Re: Trying to control Mitsubishi Heat Pump Air Conditioning Unit on: August 20, 2013, 12:49:52 am
Hi Guys

I can not longer help with any details on this project as my Mitsubishi died - $2000 NZD to fix - so it is not getting fixed.

All that for a fan and a fuse!

What is the point of a fuse if it blows you have to replace the whole circuit board- sounds like a con to me!

Chris
29  Community / Exhibition / Gallery / Re: Solar power for your arduino on: August 04, 2013, 03:56:37 am
Can't wait fr some more articles - good

Chris
30  Using Arduino / Sensors / Arduino PH Meter for Aquarium - What is the best/cheapest option on: July 20, 2013, 10:39:40 pm
Hi

I am wanting to implement an Arduino PH Meter and I know there are a lot of these out there that people have made and some details published online.

Is there a good cheap product(s) that can be recommended?

From what I can see I need an Arduino + a PH Meter board + a Ph sensor normally BNC connector. Is there a specific type/quality I should look for?

Can all ph sensors be permanently placed in an Aquarium? What happens if they are not suppose to be permanently submerged and they are?

I do not have a reef aquarium but a simple Community Tank - about 300 litres.

I have done some searching and there are a number of products that people mention but is there a known good set of products that people can recommend?

Do you need to buy calibration liquid? Or do some support not needing this? or is this bad?

Circuits for Arduino

http://www.ebay.com/itm/pH-Circuit-Sensor-for-Arduino-/200779624796#ht_1673wt_1161 - About $28 + Shipping (stupid shipping price on Ebay)
http://www.phidgets.com/products.php?product_id=1130_0 - $30 + Shipping (not yet checked price to NZ)
http://www.robotshop.com/bnc-ph-sensor-shield-arduino-3.html - $38.55 shipping  (not yet checked price to NZ)

PH Sensors (BNC)

http://www.phidgets.com/products.php?product_id=3550_0 = $25 + shipping (not yet checked price to NZ)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/K1BO-PH-Electrode-Probe-BNC-Connector-for-Aquarium-PH-Controller-Meter-Sensor-/251269399186?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a80d2c292 - $9 incl shipping - Quality?

I know there are lots of different products but is there any recommended products from people who have already done this?

Chris
Pages: 1 [2] 3 4 ... 9