Hi all.

Last weekend, I picked up from my favorite electronics junkyard one of these power supplies - an ECI 20500B:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ECI-DIGITAL-REGULATED-POWER-SUPPLY-0-25VDC-20500B-/260590641655?cmd=ViewItem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cac69a1f7

Made by this company:

http://www.eci-info.com/home.html

The picture in the auction above is virtually identical to my supply (except mine is missing the outer casing); I have verified that it seems to work properly; I had to fix a few minor issues (new binding posts, a new power switch, etc) - but it appears to work OK and no magic smoke was let out!

 ;D

I am pretty sure it is an "obsolete" product; I contacted the company about it, looking for manuals (specifically the user and the service manuals), but I have yet to hear anything from them. I am mainly wanting to have this information for any future service needs, as well as to know the proper specs of the device, and to make any adjustments (there are a few trim pots on the PCBs inside, but I don't know what controls what, and I am not going to fiddle with them until I do).

By my best guess, it has a limit of 1.5 amps MAX; at least, that's what the inline slow-blow fuse after the main transformer (there are two; one goes to the switch and the DC convertors, the other is connected to this fuse and hook up to two legs from an AC transformer via a couple of resetable panel breakers).

There's a fixed 5VDC output, plus a variable 0-25VDC output with setable current limits and current monitoring via the digital 7-seg LED display.

While these are the specs I know, I have found that I can't crank the current up all the way to 1.5 amps; it will only go up to about 1.45 amps; plus it will only go up to about 24.6 or so volts on the adjustable supply. The AC output seems larger than what the front panel says its rated for (by a few volts). IIRC, the 5VDC fixed output is fairly spot-on, but I might need to re-check that.

If anyone here has a copy of these manuals, I am willing to pay a reasonable price for them or for copies.

Thank you for taking time to read this...

 

and tend to leave the code in better condition than when they started

Are you saying they fix and modify things that aren't broken? That is not always a good thing, you know. Furthermore, fixing other things that seem broken or wrong in some manner means they would be doing extra work, billed or unbilled - either of which could mean trouble if done often and long enough.

I prefer people who understand "If it ain't broke, don't fix it", as well as those who understand the point of the trouble ticket system (if they see something not related to what they are doing, and it doesn't look right, then a ticket should be written for it for a future date).

Well, the datasheet says that the TO-220 thru-hole version is "PHP3055E" - so I imagine it would be that part?

 

Hmm - re-reading your statement, were you looking for the part number, or something equivalent? If you are looking for something equivalent, have you checked other 3055-type MOSFETs?

Ok, thanks. I don't actually have anything old that's beige but if I get something I will know what to do

Most of the stuff affected by this issue is pre-1990-95ish plastics. It used to be thought that UV exposure (flourescent lighting, sunlight) caused it, and/or tobacco smoke; these both do cause yellowing, but from what I have read about the "history" of Retr0brite - the chemists and such who worked on it actually found that it was a bromine reaction or something with the oxygen in the air (coupled with UV and other things made it worse). This was as a result of a fireproofing of these plastics - old age chemical degradation.

Eventually, after using the Retr0brite solution (years), the plastic will yellow again; I have read that you can apply a UV-filtering clear coat over the top of the plastic to prevent this, if you wanted to.

Do some research on this; it is actually a fascinating story of a bunch of old computer geeks, some with chemical industry experience and such, wanting to preserve their old computers and restore them to "like new" condition; there are tons of old computers out there (many in museums) which have this condition that would look awesome if restored this way. They went on a quest, aided by the internet and a lot of worldwide experimentation - to come up with this solution. Surprisingly (IMHO) - it uses chemicals easily and cheaply found, so that any retro-hobbyist can do it.

As a retro-computing (and computing history) enthusiast, when I first heard about it, I was stunned; this was something that has plagued us for decades. I am glad there is a solution (figuratively and literally!) to the problem.

 

Nice.

 

Awesome! I have a printer (Tandy CGP-220 ink jet from the mid-1980s) that seriously needs this treatment (plus I need to figure out a way to reload the old ink cartridges, which might be an impossibility...

Can't wait to see the final results!

 

No - not how to use the Tone library...but rather, what music do you like to code to?

Figured this might as well be the next iteration after "beer for hall" and "Coding under influence..."

 

I personally enjoy listening to everything from "2 Live Crew" to "Yanni" when I am coding; I also find Joe Satriani, as well as Weird Al Yankovic works well.

Finally, after finding a copy today, buying it, and ripping it - I forgot how much I liked to code to the soundtrack of "PI"...

That's the ongoing debate!

If its going into an original enclosure then just like any restoration be it a building, car or antique you want the replaced part to fit aestheticlly as well as functionality.

Most of the time, though, unless it would decrease the value of the original, if it isn't visible then you can replace it with a functional equivalent and be "ok".

Do people really open up these pedals and ohh-and-ahh over them with their buddies (I suppose its possible)?

I dunno - I'm not arguing what people do; but I do wonder what you and others will do when this old-school phenolic finally goes completely away (wasn't there a fire hazard issue with it?). Will you go with modern replacements (black would look nice), or do you think someone will come out with PCB that looks the same, but is made with modern materials?

 

If these are going into pedals, why must it match exactly - who's going to see? Are they going into original pedal cases/bodies? What about the other parts - do you source NOS vintage parts (or do the people who buy the boards)?

I guess my question is why must it match (for all I know maybe the pedal doesn't work the same or at all if it doesn't)? I'm just curious (btw - you wouldn't happen to know anyone selling NOS S-100 bus edge connectors, would you?)...

 

But that doesn't explain how or why they would sell it for less than the cost to ship it.

I re-looked at the bid - and you're right, that doesn't make sense; I was also in a funk with my rant - I haven't been feeling well with the world lately (oh, for the past 10 or so years), and sometimes it pops out; my appologies.

Six cents for a cable; I wonder if that is some kind of a record?

 ;D

So I know they work on low margins, but even with high volume how does one stay in business with this kind of transaction?

Seriously - does this have to be explained?

 :-?

Let's just say living conditions, working conditions, social conditions, environmental conditions and (probably most importantly, as they affect the above) political conditions aren't exactly great in that portion (indeed, in most portions) of the world, which translates into greater profit than you realize for savvy entrepreneurs over there, as well as insane profits for multi-national corporations using those areas as manufacturing hubs for their products destined for western consumers.

Most of the people manufacturing those items live and work in conditions that would make Charles Dickens and Upton Sinclair nauseous.

Ultimately, its a case of the western world having their cake and eating it too (plus the adage of "outta sight outta mind"); if you live in a "western democracy"/"first world nation", you are guilty of this mindset, whether you know it or not, and there likely isn't any way to escape it, short of living in a shack hewn from timber of the land out in the middle of nowhere living off barter and your garden. The decision to support this illusion (delusion?) was made a long time ago by interests well beyond any single person's control.

Welcome to the dystopia (also, realize you've been cheated out of fembots and flying cars, to boot!)...

 

How about standard 28 pin sockets (spring, machine, and ZIF) for the DIP 168/328?

Also - how about "bare" prototype shield PCBs with the pins laid out properly (weird spacing for the headers), one pad per hole (or a pattern), nothing else on it? Offer it "bare", or as a simple kit with headers.

You could expand on that by making a "ZIF socket Arduino shield" kit (with all of the above, plus resonator, caps, etc), to allow for easy reprogramming of bootloaded 168/328s...

 

I've had good luck with these guys for some bearings on a larger motor/gearbox combo:

http://www.bocabearings.com/

Maybe they might have what you need, or can suggest something (or another supplier)?

Good luck!

 

The closest I've been able to find to Harbor Freight in the UK has been these two stores:

http://www.axminster.co.uk/
http://www.machinemart.co.uk/

Machine Mart actually has the "feel" of a Harbor Freight, IMO. Apparently, though, Harbor Freight will ship internationally:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/cs.taf

But you have to contact them directly with the order, and they only send by FedEx (and who knows what else is involved). Still, it may work out cheaper than some of the other options.

Here's something closer to 4 inches (58 mm):

http://www.tool-shop.co.uk/cgi-bin/sh000001.pl?REFPAGE=http%3a%2f%2fwww.tool-shop.co.uk%2facatalog%2fRotozip.html&WD=saw%20table&SHOP=%20&PN=Table_Top_Tools.html%23a589#a589