Hi, sometimes it can mean that they are only available in volume ready mounted on storage strips for auto-placement machines, or SMT strips. The different temp ratings cover milspec and tolerances for various solder processes.
Hi, your final attempt is correct, the diagram has pos and neg transposed but your protoboard layout is correct.
Note use colours other than red black for AC, make it a general rule Red is positive and Black is Negative or gnd, when you get more and more components involved and more and more wiring, a rule of thumb for colours will help.
The pos and neg signs on the diode diagram show anode and cathode connections to the diode, not the output polarity of the rectifier.
Your proto layout has the connection of the two cathodes as the positive output, the connections of the anode junctions as the negative output, this is correct.
Hi, okay but servos can draw more than that 500mA on peak loads. I'd put a 1000uF cap across the supply wires at the servo to see if it makes any difference, a servo in motion and a servo keeping position are two different dynamics. Also try 10uF from the pot wiper to gnd.
Hi, if this is a 12V fan in a computer and it has been running in this computer then you already have a 12V supply. You don't need batteries or step up boards. Use the FET to turn on the Fan, and have the Fan draw its supply from the existing computer supply, remember to connect arduino gnd to computer gnd.
Hi, if all you want to do is control lights/LEDs independent of the track control then the arduino will do the trick, rectify the AC and filter it to produce DC then choose what lights you want to control. You can switch them with relays, transistors, FETs, depending on the load even dim or fade and flash.
If you want to go AC powering the lights, okay if they are lamps, but you would have to rectify and filter the AC for each LED or LED array you use. You will have to provide DC for the arduino too.
Hi, if it was a uni project, probably trying to remove all evidence of help. And from what I can make out good help given with great tolerance. I don't know what they teach in uni these days but it doesn't look like the necessary information to complete a project.
You were encouraged to ask questions while doing your project and detail how you got your answers, it showed how much you had learn't.
I kinda think this may be a case of I want to be big in electronics but god I don't need to do all this hard work, but when I do I'll pick someone else's brain and call it my own, smart me. I find I am coming across more and more tertiary students who have no clue of what is needed for them to acquire the piece of paper they hanker for. I had a final year Electronics Engineer in my workshop for "Work Experience". It seems now here in Australia an undergraduate has to do "work experience" to complete their course. (not sure how much but 6weeks worth sound right) He was in last year of 3 year course, in the fortnight he was with us, he said he had done more soldering in that fortnight than he had ever done before. When I was at uni, we had guys screaming for extra lab time, when the lab was vacant, to do personal projects. In most cases, depending on project this was actively encouraged, and all of us new which end of a soldering iron was hot.
I'l get of my soapbox now....lol arduinodlb were you thanked?
Hi, are you multiplexing the display. If not can you measure the volts across the 100R resistor when it relevant LEDs are ON. That voltage divided by 100 will give you the actual current running through the LED. Also a circuit diagram of how you are switching the LEDs ON if you are using a transistor, BJT or FET.
Hi, please use code tags to post your code. First problem is you need to declare what pins are input. Then you need to digital.Read, not Write. I'm not sure if you know how an encoder works, it outputs a series of pulses that are dependent on speed and direction of rotation of the encoder shaft. If you use the Search Arduino box in the top of this page and search for reading encoders you will find lots off posts that have found the solution you are looking for. Can you post a copy of your circuit diagram, either CAD or picture of hand drawn will be okay, by the way to you have a digital mutlimeter to help you trouble shoot your project.
Hi, I am the sort of DVD viewer who wants to get the most out of his DVD purchases, so if there are extras on the DVD/BluRay I will usually watch them. Like for example the later Italian Job, the minis used in the sewer chase were electric powered. Anyhow, I have just watched a movie called OBLIVION with Tommy Cruise, the storyline was good, and the extras had docos of various aspects of the creation of the movie. One prop was what they called a Bubble Ship, a hybrid air and space craft, looks like a cross between a Huey out of MASH and a dragonfly, really nice creation. They made a fullsize unit and started showing some of the features. One included opening rear doors to get Tommy's electric trail bike out through, as they demonstrated it the operator had the control unit in his hand, a quick pause button press and voila, he is holding a Adruino Uno with two what look like perf board shields. Has anybody else seen arduino popping up in ares like this? Someone has made a model kit of it, the Bubble Ship.
Hi, does that switch really switch 250Vac? If so then that switch is not suitable. If you purchased it like that I'd be complaining to the seller for using a switch that is not rated for what its used for.
Hi, that wiring would be right for a switch that is illuminated, that is, has a lamp to indicate when the switch is on. So the switch turns the board ON, and the other wire provides the current return for the inbuilt light. So on your diagram you could draw a lamp symbol between the centre and left terminals. However I would be worried about the switch, only rated at 12Vdc and only has a 12V lamp. So If you do not measure any resistance where the lamp should be then its blown, also 250Vac should not be used on this switch. What does the board do, or supposed to do?