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31  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: Help with 10Watts color organ on: March 21, 2013, 09:10:42 pm
Thanks for answering, mjkzz.

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1. I think general approach is sound, ie, control pin -> cc driver --> led
Ok, in that case I think the schematic is fine.

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3. No unless you constantly shifting outputs, you can't feed PWM signal to shift reg and expect PWM signal out.
You can use this library: http://www.elcojacobs.com/using-shiftpwm-to-control-rgb-leds-with-arduino/
I tryed it and it works!

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4. I think it would slow down your process if you want to maintain flicker free light output. There are some discussions over LED board and you can off load PWM job to a specialized chip, don't remember what it was :-)
Yes, maybe two shift registers to get 12 PWM outputs is too much and will slow it down too much.

I was thinking to use only 6 PWM outputs, in order to get only 2 colors, one color for a pair of leds and the other for the rest two. But now the question is:
How can I do some kind of ENABLE so even if I'm sending color voltage to the three pins on a led, it doesn't turns on if I'm not enabling it???

Thanks again.
32  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Help with 10Watts color organ on: March 21, 2013, 03:46:36 pm
I already implemented a color organ with 4 leds. You plug a music input and it turns on the leds as the music goes (one led for bass, other for mid-low, other mid-high and other for highs) and it works fine. It uses Fourier Transform to get the spectrum of the sound.

What I really want to do is use four 10watts RGB led lights instead of 4 simple leds so I can light up a room. I know this RGB leds have 3 pins (one for each color) and can be driven by PWM, if the input of the 3 pins is zero, then the light is off.
And I also know I need a driver to turn a one color led on, like this one: http://www.tbideas.com/blog/build-an-arduino-shield-to-drive-high-power-rgb-led/
I think I need three drivers per led as these are RGB, and also as there are only 6 PWM outputs on Arduino, I need a shift register, like this one: http://www.elcojacobs.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/shiftpwm_74hc595_RGB.png

Questions:
1- Are the general connections of the schematic ok?
2- If the led is RGB I need three drivers per led, right?
3- Will the shift register work ok?
4- Do you think that PWM shift register will slow down considerably the speed of Arduino? Because Fourier Transform is sensible to the speed.
Thanks a lot for your time!
33  Using Arduino / General Electronics / Re: Simple (I think) problem with very basic drum machine trigger on: March 07, 2013, 06:53:22 pm
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Could we talk you into replacing the whole circuit with an Arduino ?  smiley-evil
hehehe... I'm trying to simplify things to make it small. I was planning to do it more complicated later after I finish this one.

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Forget the diodes and put another buffer between the base trigger and the input circuit.
I am very amateur at this... Do you mean to double negate the output of the bass trigger? I should point out that at this point it does work as intended when the rhythm switch is connected into one of the counter outputs, but maybe it can be damaged if left for a long time?

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If you need that manual trigger then turn that buffer into a logic gate. The type will depend on the normal state of the output of the 74LS93. If it is normally low then an OR gate should do. You should connect the input of the OR gate through a potential divider to get a safe input level to the gate. You should not feed over the supply voltage into a gate.
I really don't know what is the normal state of the 74LS93 counter is, the 555 timer is always running. I am sorry but got lost here, what OR gate? I know what it is, but there is none here... I think.

Thank you again for answering, it's not the first time you help me, Grumpy_Mike.
34  Using Arduino / General Electronics / Simple (I think) problem with very basic drum machine trigger on: March 07, 2013, 03:31:40 pm
Okey, I originally posted this on http://www.edaboard.com because it has nothing to do with Arduino, but as I couldn't solve it there and I think that Arduino forum has a lot more activity than the other one, and also there is a lot of people here that knows this stuff very well and helped me in the past. So I tried posting it here.

Thank you very much for taking the time to read this and help me!

I designed this circuit which I think is a pulse generator, made with a 555 IC, counter and an inverter to generate a ryhtm for the drum machine
Out of the picture (down) is a hi-hat circuit.

(those two things drew on the right by hand are buttons)
First of all this part is working fine, it generates a desired pulse and is having no problems by itself, also the hi-hat works fine in rhythm.

I also made two PCBs for this circuit:
which generate the snare and bass sounds and connected each one (bass and snare triggers) to the designed pins on the right of the first image. That also works fine by itself with the rhythm.

As I also want the drum and snare to be triggered by a button when the snare and bass rhyhtm is disabled (by disconnecting the switch on the right of the first image, next to the snare and bass rhythm output pins, labeled "X2_RITMO(OPC)") so I also connected a button to +9v and the other pin of the button to each trigger and THATS WHERE THE PROBLEM IS.

When I press the bass button it first triggers a bass drum sound, but when I realease it it makes a snare drum sound, also it seems that the snare button doesn't trigger the snare at all.


On the other forum a user kindly suggested I should put a diode in the bass wire, so that none of its switch action gets back to node 3.

So I made this modification:
but now it behaves in a weird fashion, when I press the bass button it makes the snare sound like a machine gun firing it very rapidly.

Any ideas what I could try? Thanks a lot!!!
35  Using Arduino / LEDs and Multiplexing / Re: CD4051 Multiplexor input test sketch on: October 31, 2012, 05:58:44 pm
Yes, I know it's not efficient but it's just for testing a connection to a MUX, works for me.
Code:
2. You may spuriously select two wrong channels before settling on  your target channel.
Sorry but I don't understand, what do you mean with this?
36  Using Arduino / General Electronics / Re: Soldering leads to arduino to finish up? on: October 31, 2012, 05:57:14 pm
today I removed the female plastic for the pins and after getting something as the Diavolino as fungus is showing us then I soldered the cables directly to it
I think that is better than gluing them
37  Using Arduino / General Electronics / Re: Audio out and speaker on: October 29, 2012, 12:24:02 pm
Hey, thank you very much to all for the great help and the time!
I think I got it now, the jack will act as a jumper when a plug is connected, that goes in series to the speaker.

I'll buy some from ebay!
38  Using Arduino / General Electronics / Re: Audio out and speaker on: October 28, 2012, 07:21:57 pm
ok, yes, but where do I connect the switch output of the jack?
39  Using Arduino / General Electronics / Re: Audio out and speaker on: October 28, 2012, 01:12:44 pm
ok, and where the switch of the audio jack goes connected on that schematic? If it were a normal switch I would think that the switch goes from R7 to speaker, but I have no idea how to do it with a built in switch as it has only one connector.

also, I dont see R7 value and what value should be correct for the R9 potentiometer?
40  Using Arduino / General Electronics / Re: Audio out and speaker on: October 28, 2012, 12:11:47 pm
Oh... so when I connect the line out the speaker gets automatically disconnected? That is awesome.
And R9 is the volume, right?

Thanks!!
41  Using Arduino / General Electronics / Audio out and speaker on: October 27, 2012, 03:38:49 pm
I am working on some sort of synth and want to add a speaker output but also a line out, and if I am using line out the speaker should be deactivated.
I was thinking that I can use this amplifier: http://makezine.com/images/09/CrackerboxAmp_Schem.pdf and have a switch on the OUT after the Master volume so it can switch between speaker and line out
Will that work ok? with no noise or problem at all?
Thanks!
42  Using Arduino / General Electronics / Re: Weird led behavior? on: October 22, 2012, 04:28:53 pm
Thanks for answering!
yes I did it like the picture, now I see what you mean, as the leds were not polarized (I mean they turned on on whatever orientation) once one shift register output becomes high it will get trough the led and as the other outputs of the SR are on low it will make the other leds turn on (on inversed polarity)... so that is what happened.

Now that I changed the leds to polarized ones it works perfect!
43  Using Arduino / General Electronics / Weird led behavior? on: October 21, 2012, 10:00:59 am
I have made a PCB for the circuit I have attached. Those 12 leds on the left are sharing one resistor because only one of them will turn on at a given time, on those leds I put some I had stored, they don't seem to have a cathode and annode, the orientation work the same and the 2 legs are equally length. What they did is some of the voltage seems that was going trough the leds into GND.
I really don't know a lot of ellectronics so really can't explain it very well, but when connecting the PIN13 of arduino to the GND terminal of the leds, if one of them was turned on, I could get a "1", and so some of the other leds got turned on as well. After replacing those leds with normal ones it did work as intended.

Could someone explain why I got a "1" on the GND terminal after the leds? Of course if I connected PIN13 after that shared resistance I got a "0".
Thanks!
44  Using Arduino / General Electronics / Re: Help with drum machine schematic on: October 16, 2012, 08:24:26 pm
oh, so can I take the 5V from the arduino board and maybe put a resistor somewhere in there in order to get the voltage down to 4,5V... or something like that?  smiley-razz
Sorry, I am a begginer about circuits.
45  Using Arduino / General Electronics / Re: Soldering leads to arduino to finish up? on: October 16, 2012, 12:29:24 pm
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I get strips of male pin headers.  You can get long strips and snap off sets of the desired size.  I then plug the male pins into the female sockets on the Arduino board and solder to the part of the pin that would normally be soldered into a circuit board

Sorry, I don't understand you mean a pin header like this, right?
How do you solder that to the inside of the Arduino female pin? it has plastic all around!
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