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1  Using Arduino / Networking, Protocols, and Devices / Combine hex for xbee on: December 28, 2013, 11:40:01 pm
Is there a way to combine several Serial.write's into one?

For example, in this DH and DL xbee snippet (I've left off the other parts of the frame)

// this would be the checksum
long sum =  0x00 + 0x13 + 0xA2 + 0x00 + 0x40 + 0xB0 + 0x9D + 0x78 + 0xFF + 0xFE;

I've tried building the DH and DL part of the frame like this. But this doesn't work. (I'm just showing the DH and DL part of the frame)

and then the checksum
long sum = 0x17 + 0x0013A200 + 0x40B09D78 + 0xFF + 0xFE;

My goal is to combine the high and low byte of the destination xbee into one line.

Can someone help
2  Using Arduino / Networking, Protocols, and Devices / Read the state of a remote pin on: September 10, 2013, 11:36:28 am
I’m using 2 uno’s and 2 xBee Series 1 for wireless communication. The wireless communication between the two uno’s via the xBee works just fine. I would like to read the state of a pin on the end device (whether its HIGH or LOW) from the coordinator.  Thus if the coordinator were to ever go off-line and then come back up it could then read the state of the end Device’s Uno pin configuration when the coordinator’s void setup() function runs. I’m not sure how this is done.  Could someone please help me?
3  Topics / Home Automation and Networked Objects / Re: Kambrook Remote Power Outlet & Arduino - working on: August 09, 2013, 09:22:18 am
I initially tried NewRemoteSwitch, RemoteSwitch, and RCswitch. None of these were able to detect this unit. So I used the manual analysis method by sniffing the signals.

Could someone explain how sniffing works and perhaps a simple example how to do it.
4  Using Arduino / General Electronics / Re: first pcb try on: February 19, 2013, 10:11:29 am
I have read this post with great interest. I'm new to the PCB layout and design. For those of you who are drilling your own boards. Where do I find a .08 bit in the USA. What size of bit or bits do I need? Where can I get them? I believe .08 is the correct bit size for most leads.


5  Using Arduino / Microcontrollers / Re: Nano on: February 05, 2013, 06:42:07 pm
I can't figure it out. I'm on a mac using eagle 6.4 and can't find any way to export a project or rather an .sch file. I'm trying to make a library from the file at this link:

Can someone help me out in exporting the nano eagle file or tell me what ulp program to use to get the Nano file into a library?

Perhaps a short step by step?

I would like to create a library with just the part and pinouts.

Thanks again
6  Using Arduino / Microcontrollers / Re: Nano on: February 01, 2013, 10:50:58 am
Thank you.
7  Using Arduino / Microcontrollers / Re: Nano on: January 31, 2013, 06:29:52 pm
Ok I grabed the eagle nano file from here

I'm not an eagle power user so I need some help. After unzipping I now have two files. A .brd and a .sch.
How do I convert the .brd file into a device that can be used in other eagle projects?

8  Using Arduino / Microcontrollers / Nano on: January 30, 2013, 02:46:38 pm
I've looked all over the web but cannot find an Eagle lib for Arduino nano. Can someone help me out?

Thanks in advance.
9  Using Arduino / General Electronics / Re: Checking for 12 Volts on: December 01, 2012, 03:33:26 pm
So I can eliminate the pull down?

No, the pulldown is what keeps the input from floating, and also produces 5V to the pin.
As dc42 says, higher value Rs can be used, just keep the same ratio.

Read the part on figure 2,

Yea, I just read my posted then slapped my self in the head. I need both resistors. Dumb on my part. I will go with the higher values.

10  Using Arduino / General Electronics / Re: Checking for 12 Volts on: December 01, 2012, 03:25:09 pm
The nice thing about that sucker is, the input pin isn't floating when the sensor is
not connected.

Oh I didn't know that. So I can eliminate the pull down?
11  Using Arduino / General Electronics / Re: Checking for 12 Volts on: December 01, 2012, 03:14:08 pm
Why not just use a 12V:5V voltage divider, 15K feeding into 10K.

Ok so this will work?

12  Using Arduino / General Electronics / Checking for 12 Volts on: December 01, 2012, 02:37:41 pm
I need to look for 12v when a switch is pressed. In the schematic the H-12v is my sense line. I'm looking for a high on pin 2 of the Ardurino Mini. Could I get some feedback on this design and is this a good approach for solving the problem?

Thanks in advance.
13  Using Arduino / General Electronics / Re: P-Channel mosfet controlling car 12v light on: November 06, 2012, 12:21:03 am
Hay guys, To clarify, which I didn't do before (don't kill me). I am switching a light every .5 seconds for 6 cycles. 6 highs and 5 lows. The light remains high at the last clock and stays high for about 30 seconds. That's why I thought the 10k pull-up would work, but I wasn't sure. Hence my post. (I dabble in electronics at night. I'm an animator/technical artist by day. Which is just a fancy way of saying animator-programmer)
14  Using Arduino / General Electronics / Re: P-Channel mosfet controlling car 12v light on: November 03, 2012, 03:38:52 pm
I would still add a pull-down resistor on the NPN's base.  The IO on the Arduino defaults to input (High Impedence).  At this time, the base of the NPN would effectively be floating.  You would get random switch-ons until the Arduino is powered up and booted and the IO pin has been set to OUTPUT and driven low.

This is the circuit I always use:

Yes I'm going with this design. Built it out last night, just need to add the 10k pull-down. Thanks for everyone's help.
15  Using Arduino / General Electronics / Re: P-Channel mosfet controlling car 12v light on: November 02, 2012, 09:46:44 pm
You can switch from the low side with a n channel mosfet or even switch from the high side with a n channel mosfet (not very efficient).

The issue of chassis polarity (whether it is grounded positive or negative) does come into play, particularly that your fixture isn't coorporating: for example of the low side is grounded to the chassis at the fixture.

But if you are ok with your own fixture, that's not a limiting factor.

Are you saying (The vehicle being a negative ground) if I ground my device/board the N low side switch will work efficiently? That would great. I could save a transistor. I know it doesn't sound like a big real estate savings. But this circuit is duplicated 5 times.

work efficently?
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