What voltage are the resistors rated at?

Would a normal IR tester not work? something like A 500v/1000V Megger, or up to 5kV megger, such as Megger BM11D or MIT510/2? The MIT510/2 goes up to 15T Ohms with voltages of 250/500/1000/2500/5000v and a maximum current of 2-3mA.

Get your individual design exactly how you want it.

If you know you will be rotating the full board to fit multiple copies onto the panel then make sure you set the 'Spin' property of any text, name and value items.

Save a copy of the .brd as *-to_panelise.brd

Open the *-tp_panalise.brd file.

Set all layers to visible.

Run panelize.ulp - this copies some layers, such as tNames and bNames to new layers, the numbers incremented by 100. i.e. 25 tNames to 125_tNames

Save the file

Do a group select of the whole board, still with all layers selected.

Select Copy from the file menu

Close the file

Create a new blank .brd file from within Eagle Control Panel

Select Paste from the file menu and paste copies of your board in as required, rotating to fit. If you have done it right then the text should all stay in the correct orientation.

Once done create an overall board outline in the 46 - Milling layer. Multiple Dimension outlines can cause issue when you output the board to a 3D renderer or Gerbers. Any copper fills also run to Dimension layers so this will preserve correct copper fill distances on individual sub boards.

Mark out any cut lines on the panel in a suitable layer, such as tPlace. I normally leave 4mm between sub boards.

When outputting the panel to print, Gerbers or 3D renderer then be sure to select the correct layers. Don't use 25 & 26 for Names, use the copied layers 125 & 126. Use 46 - Milling for overall board outline.

I've typed this quickly as I need to go out, but hopefully not forgotten anything.

What is the bords.txt definition for your MCU?
What Fuse settings have you burnt?

This could be as simple as trying to upload at the wrong baud rate, or it could be more involved.

What bootloader are you using?
What are the fuse settings?
Post the sketch. I know you said it was just Blink, but still post it.

He has provided hints in the exact places you need to enter the two correct lines of code.

The whole point of YOUR homework is that YOU are supposed to work it out. Presumably the proceeding lessons were designed to give you the knowledge to complete the task.

Asking someone else on the internet to solve it for you is an old fashioned thing that people of my generation know as 'cheating'.

Sounds like a job for a pressure switch or float switch to me.  If you simply want to replace the water that is evaporated you don't need electronics.  Think 'toilet'.

Hi, thanks for the reply.

 I know there is much better options. But I need a very very cheap one.

A float valve at about £7.50, or less, in the UK (approximately $12) is surely cheaper than using an Arduino?

With a GSM connection you could probably write some code to make use of a Dynamic DNS service, such as No-IP or DyDNS.

Basically your Arduino/GSM would need to perioidically tell the Dynamic DNS service what it's currently assigned IP address is from the network provider. The Dynamic DNS service then maps this to a static domain name, so that you can always access your device from that domain, no matter if it's assigned IP address changes.

How will you contact the Arduino? If you are doing so from a web based application then you could do something similar, where the Arduino transmits it's IP address if/when it changes, so that your 'client' always knows which IP to use to contact the Arduino.

It shouldn't be too hard to choose a suitable solution.

Current for an LED can vary widely. Full current would usually be around 20mA but you don't always have to use full current, in fact lower current is usually perfectly adequate to suit the brightness you require.

Certainly more modern LEDe can give adequate brightness with quite low currents.

For example, I have a sentry gun controller board I made where I use Blue, Yellow and Red 3mm LEDs for the mode indicators (fire, comms and reload). With 5V I use 4k7 resistors, providing for around 0.4-0.5mA on the various colours (they have different Vfd's).

On the same board I have 5v and 9v outputs to servos, with power health indicator LEDs on he regulator outputs. I don't want these as bright, just enough to indicate they are on. With 5V year are on. 10k resistor. With 9V they are on a 22k resistor. This give about 0.25-0.3mA through 3mm Green diffused LEDs.

These give me the brightness I want and, as you can see, are well below the 20mA maximum the data sheets quote.

So, typical LED current for an SMD or 3mm or 5mm could be anything from about 0.25mA to 20mA.

Tak - Refer to image. I simply used jumpers to connect the onboard 16Mhz resonator.

And a lot of great info. Ill surely look into that and post back. Much appreciated!

I can't follow the connections from the photo, there are just too many long looping jumpers everywhere.

You've got an Uno with no MCU and then two breadboards, one with a 328 and another with 1284.

Are you trying to share the Uno 16mhz crystal with both of these? If so then you can't just pick up both sides on the crystal to both XTAL pins on each chip. On one you drive the crystal normally and on the other just link the crystal output to XTAL in of 2nd chip I believe.

Also bear in mind that the XTAL pins are the opposite way round on 1284 vs 328. On the 328 it's the low impedance pin adjacent signal pin. On the 1284 it's the high impedance XTAL pin adjacent The RX0 signal pin. This is one reason we had issues with serial uploads on 1284 without adequate ground rings or full swing oscillator; the high z XTAL pin on 1284 seemed to susceptible to capacitively induced interference from the adjacent RX0 pin.

Rather than use 50+ pins for individual LEDs you might also want to investigate LED drivers or shift registers to allow you to run all your LEDs with only a few Arduino pins.

1st issue may well be out of sync due to wrong crystal.

Second issue; how exactly have you 'tapped into' the Uno onboard crystal.

Does your new chip have a bootloader on it so that new sketches can be  loaded on to it?

No I did not put new chip a bootloader on it.  I was using verion 1.0. Do you know where can I get more information how chip can install with a bootloader and able to burn bootloader.

http://en.lmgtfy.com/?q=burn+arduino+bootloader

I'm a big fan of the 1284 as I'm using it on a my custom boards for electronic props for compat games.

I like the idea of an Uno or Mega compatible footprint, although most people using 1284 are probably at a stage where they'd be designing a board, or using something like Crossroads Bobuino board. Still, it's a good idea as another option for people into this nice little MCU with the extra resources that will satisfy many larger projects.

I notice that SPI and UART are on incompatible pins than Uno. The Bobuino pinmapping makes these compatible, RXT/TXD on D0/D1 and SPI on D10-D13. You have SPI on D4-D7 and RX0/RX1 on D8/D9.

Surely a standard shield won't work with your pins as is? An SPI shield may do, if it uses the SPI header, rather than pins 10-13, although I believe the Ethernet shield uses Pin 10 for its SS, whereas you have SPI on D4-D7

I had the same issue of getting a finish I was happy with and eventually came up with something I was happy with.

I made an Instructable on making your own LCD window/bezel that ends up as a kind of black glass iPhone'esque type look. You could probably make the same kind of surround for a normal keypad if you could actually cut out the inside part, or use the same trick with a membrane keypad on the surface to have the black surround.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Home-Made-Bezel-Window-for-LCD-LED-Displays/

The easiest thing would be to look at fm's New LiquidCrystal Library, as it supports 585 shift register and the project page has example circuits fir 1 wire, 2 wire and 3 wire connection methods.