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166  Using Arduino / Displays / Re: Report: Inexpensive SPI based TFT Displays (PCF8833, ST7735, ILI9341) on: March 01, 2014, 12:08:24 pm
Great, very interesting !

+karma for all the work you put into displays and for us to grab.
Hope this to be a nice reference page for displays that are supported by Ucglib (including those pictures and all).
Thanks again.
167  Using Arduino / Displays / Re: 2 wire lcd on: March 01, 2014, 11:58:45 am
Hi john.

Your descriptions are too generic.
Tell about what interface you came up with.
What chip did you use for that interface, and how did you connect it to the display ?
So what connection of the chip is connected to which display pin.
Do you have schematics ?
Tell us the exact type of your display, there's lots of those around and they aren't all the same.
168  Topics / Device Hacking / Re: rc hack arduino as a variable resistor on: March 01, 2014, 11:51:21 am
I can't tell you how to do the connections, i'd need to see the schematics of the transmitter you want to hack (and am not sure that tells me enough).
But PWM lets you send 255 values (8 bit).
Will that do ?
An Arduino reads resistors (well, analog vaues) in 1024 steps (10 bits), but can create only 8 bits analog values, and you do indeed need to use a filter to actually create analog values from that.
169  International / Nederlands / Re: Arduino gebruiken in auto. on: March 01, 2014, 05:53:39 am
Want die loop (maar dan zonder next, want die is er niet in deze omgeving), is al net zo blokkerend als de delay (je sluit jezelf weer ff op, maar nu in een ander hoekje als die vermaledijde Galliers*).
Daarom let ik tegenwoordig ook op for.. loops als iemand vertraging ervaart.
Als je echt delay (100000) doet, dan doe je dus dik anderhalve minuut niets.
Das wel een eeuwigheid.
Je kunt gewoon hetzelfde doen als in blink without delay.
Maar daarvoor moet je wel in loop() zitten.
Dan kun je dus met regelmaat controleren of de gewenste tijd al verstreken is.

Ik heb echter ergens al eens gezien dat iemand de Arduino laat slapen om m vervolgens na een bepaalde tijd wakker te laten worden.
Daarmee bespaar je een berg energie, heel mooi als je een batterij gevoede toepassing hebt.
Hoe je dat doet weet ik niet precies, maar ik weet wel dat je daarvoor met interrupts werkt.

*) Ref: robtillaart + Goscinny/Underzo
170  Using Arduino / Motors, Mechanics, and Power / Re: Possible Power issue?? or something completely else? on: March 01, 2014, 05:00:16 am
So I am using a Uno connected with a GSM shield and a relay shield.  I am using the gsm shield to turn on a relay on the relay shield.  When I have it hooked up to my computer via usb cable it woks great and when I say turn on the relay turns on and stays on until I unplug the board or tell it to turn off.

Sadly when I connect it to a 12volt power supply instead of the usb cable it doesn't work so well.  

That says it all.
If you manage well supplying from a computer's USB port, those are typically rated 500 mA.
Did you use the standard setup while testing, using Uno, GSM shield and relay shield, or did you leave anything out you would need while "in the field" ?
I'd look for a power supply up to 1 A.
171  Using Arduino / Programming Questions / Re: How to add ON/Off switch on: February 28, 2014, 05:49:10 pm
No, you can't do that.
All you'll do is reset it, like you'd press the reset button on your PC (but without danger of destroying some harddisk content, as that isn't in it).
You could use external hardware to store some settings and change that after every reset.
But that is not really a solution and once you are able to do that, you don't need to ask questions like these anymore.
But keep asking any question, it's a way to learn.
172  International / Nederlands / Re: Arduino gebruiken in auto. on: February 27, 2014, 04:06:28 pm
Okee dat is inderdaad een duidelijke code.
Maar deze kan niet werken zoals jij had gehoopt.
Je hebt namelijk heel veel delays in die code zitten.
Als ik ze optel, dan zie ik 14 en een halve seconde vertraging in het eerste stukje van je code.
Die 14.5 seconden vertraging word altijd uitgevoerd, of jij op het knoppie drukt of niet.

Een delay X betekent doe niets, en kijk of er als X milliseconden voorbij zijn gegaan.
Dus doet je Arduino 16000 keer niets, dan is er al 1 milliseconde voorbij.
En dat doet ie dan X keer.
En niets doen is dus niets doen, ook niet kijken of er op een knoppie word gedrukt.

Daarom het meest gehoorde advies hier op het board:
Bekijk de "blink without delay" sketch, en probeer te begrijpen hoe en waarom die werkt.
En bedenk hoe snel de zaken in je Arduino eigenlijk verlopen, want das best lastig te bevatten als je het vergelijkt met hoe snel je eigen gedachten (lijken te) gaan.

Verder heb je het over het vergeten van het indrukken van je knop.
Dat klopt, dat heb je zo geprogrammeerd dat ie vergeten word.
Als je dit doet:
 int reading = digitalRead(drukknop);
Dan maak je een nieuwe (en dus heel kort ook lege) waarde aan, die je vervolgens vult met je drukknop waarde.
Dat doe je elke keer als de loop nog es een rondje maakt.
Je slaat dat een stuk verderop wel op in lastButtonState, maar dan moet iemand inderdaad de hele tijd die knop ingedrukt houden.
Wat je mist is de registratie dat die knop is ingedrukt, en hoe lang dat geleden is.
En dat is dus onafhankelijk van de huidige staat van die knop.
Op een gegeven moment, als je van alles met je lichten gedaan hebt, wil je dan die registratie weer wissen.

Als je dit alles veranderd hebt zoals ik hierboven bedoel, moet je je werkwijze ook iets aanpassen.
Want nu doorloopt je loop dus telkens 1 cyclus van je verkeerslichten, straks duurt 1 cyclus duizenden loops.
En daar moet je dan wel rekening mee houden.

Tips op een rijtje:
- Gebruik blink without delay
- Houd heel goed bij wat je doet, maar ook wat je al gedaan hebt en wanneer.
- Om dat allemaal bij te kunnen houden, heb je meer variabelen nodig.
173  General Category / General Discussion / Re: 16x2 lcd Arduino Mega Problem on: February 26, 2014, 05:41:11 pm
Did you tell IDE that you are programming MEGA instead of UNO ?
You need to set the correct board (menu - Tools - board (if your language is set to English)).
174  Using Arduino / General Electronics / Re: UNO R3 - L-Led - did I lost the LMV358IDGKR? on: February 26, 2014, 05:30:48 pm
So i guess you used the Uno schematics to find out about that lmv358, right ?
This part is quite small, probably too small for you to get your measuring pins to it.
As you can see, SCK (pin 19 of the ATmega, and pin 13 on the socket next to the LED) control that lmv358.
You can do some measurements at pin 13 to see whether that does what you expect it to do.
If you press the reset button, does the LED stay off too ?

If it blinks a few times upon reset, then your sketch uses pin 13 and keeps the LED off.
In that case there's nothing wrong.

You can also try the blink sketch, which does nothing but set pin 13 high and low in a relatively slow pace.
If there is no blinking of that LED, does an other LED (with the accompanying resistor) on pin 13 blink ?

So multiple ways to check and see what's going on.
175  Using Arduino / Motors, Mechanics, and Power / Re: FaulHaber magnetic encoder...Help! on: February 26, 2014, 05:02:38 pm
Can you find anything written on those encoders, identifying them ?

You can find out some more by having a real good look at the traces of that small PCB, but you'll be guessing a bit that way.
I can't see enough detail in those pics to help with that.
(need to see the traces)
176  Topics / Robotics / Re: Jak kontrolowańá ROB-10825 z arduino? on: February 26, 2014, 04:54:48 pm
Quote from: piotrek9838
Hi all,
I want to control the robot But I'm new in mechatronics and do not know how to write code. I have assembled robot, also installed the Arduino software. I have all the needed materials. Can anyone tell me how to create a code, the code also please. Thank you very much!

Hi piotrek9838, and welcome.

This is an international board, and the language is English.
There are some country specific parts, but Polish isn't among those.
So please try to communicate in English, and expect English written replies.
Above quote is courtesy to Google translate, it did quite well.
It is unlikely (but not impossible) that someone has the exact code you need.
And you should not expect or even ask people to write some code for you.
Writing code takes time, and time is money as they say.
You'd be far better off learning how to do this yourself.
That way you can make whatever you need and change it to anything you want to in the future.
Again: that will take some time, but you'll learn a lot of valuable things you can use in the future..
177  Using Arduino / LEDs and Multiplexing / Re: Simultaneous Functions-old on: February 26, 2014, 04:35:38 pm
Thanks for nothing.

I'll try to remember your name (as a matter of fact, you're not worth even that).
So i can stay away from any of your future topics.

Explanation to anyone raising her/his eyebrows:
mauione asked a question which was addressed, as all can see.
She/he did get criticized, but also was offered serious help.
Now, after the problem was solved, mauione deleted all posts in this thread, but couldn't delete the first one.
So the contents of that first post was changed to something totally worthless.

This board is about helping people with their questions.
Such help can exist by finding similar threads, and learn from what was told there /  mistakes other people made.
People like mauione are ungrateful pieces of (whatever) that do not deserve to be helped.
They only know how to take and are not interested in giving back.
They aren't even worth being told this truth, if they even bother checking it.

I guess this is going to show up in a thread about attitude now, ask yourself which attitude is to be discussed.
178  Using Arduino / General Electronics / Re: Level shift FTDI pins on: February 26, 2014, 12:37:29 am
Because then you are powering with 3.3 volts (the regulator reduces the voltage), and programming with 5 volts.
That will get you in trouble.
179  Using Arduino / General Electronics / Re: better ADC for atmega328 on: February 25, 2014, 05:21:27 pm
You can do the comparison yourself.
Maxim does 14 bits but way less samples per second (50).
But the largest difference between these is that the Maxim is a chip, the Adafruit is a module.
The chip probably needs some external components to work correctly.
The module is ready to go.
I didn't bother using digikeys product selector (or whatever that tool may be called) to find a price for the max110.
If you are going to build your own pcb you might consider using components.
If you better like using modules, you would be better off choosing the Adafruit "plug and play" solution.
180  Using Arduino / General Electronics / Re: better ADC for atmega328 on: February 25, 2014, 04:57:32 pm
First one is 12 bits (as you asked) and 10 dollars.
2nd one is 16 bits and 15 dollars.

16 bits is a lot slower (which does make sense): 860 samples per second to 3300 samples per second for 12 bits.

I can't see other differences, looking at the Technical Details.
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