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286  Community / Gigs and Collaborations / Re: need help with code for controlling a hydraulic press mode on: May 10, 2014, 06:52:27 am
And that is exactly where the problem is and why you are suddenly getting less positive responses.
Your project is not finished at all, it just happens to do what you wanted it to do for now.
It will fail and you have now been warned for that.
In case it fails, what would be the consequences ?
The hydraulic system overloading or worse ?
What about any people near that machine trying to control it ?

You can and should prevent that failure before you can call this project finished.
Would it have been a school project, you would not have achieved anything close to an A grade.
287  Community / Bar Sport / Re: This community sucks on: May 09, 2014, 03:06:34 pm
Go up one forum and find this page.
That was started yesterday, and finished today in a link to a $ 50,- indigogo project.
I'm not interested in it or any other of his projects, certainly not after OP's rant today (which wasn't the first time i saw comments like this from him).
As there are no answers to the aforementioned thread, and one comment that seems to be invisible on indigogo, there's no way of telling what set OP to his ranting rampage.
288  Community / Gigs and Collaborations / Re: need help with code for controlling a hydraulic press mode on: May 09, 2014, 02:33:32 pm
Here's some points.
First of all, it's supposed to set you to do the research that you should have done earlier, now.

Second:
This is something that is told in about every post around here, where people are told how to use relays.
Because leaving those out will do serious damage sooner or later.

And last but not least:
You will remember this next time.

Research 'protection diode', using search function.
289  International / Nederlands / Re: DC motor aansturen on: May 08, 2014, 04:24:12 pm
Vergeet vooral niet dat je motor heel veel meer stroom trekt tijdens het starten.
Daar moet je rekening mee houden als je iets gaat ontwerpen dat gebaseerd is op 60 Ampère, wat echt erg veel is.

Door PWM toe te passen, ga je ook erg veel stoorsignalen opwekken.
Dat vergt ook aandacht.

Maar je vraag is daarmee niet beantwoord; ik heb niet iets in mijn hoofd waarmee je dit op eenvoudige wijze zou kunnen doen.
 
290  Community / Gigs and Collaborations / Re: need help with code for controlling a hydraulic press mode on: May 08, 2014, 04:14:07 pm
Oh no !

Please get rid of the mistakes ans errors before you do a write up of this DIY project, or else you'd better upload it to instructables.
That site is a horrible way of showing how not to do things.

Why all this:
There's no diodes in sight near your relays.
Do not do that.
291  Using Arduino / LEDs and Multiplexing / Re: Multiple LED's on separate pins, switches and functions - need guidance on: May 08, 2014, 03:48:06 pm
Ofcourse the question that rises now is do you understand what that code does.
Else your problem might now be (partially) solved, but next time you want to change (like add a function) something, you'll immediately run into trouble.
292  Community / Bar Sport / Re: Your latest purchase on: May 07, 2014, 02:41:48 pm
I'm not 100 % sure, but the 3 prong devices look like some LC filter to me, consisting of (ferrite) inductor, capacitor and another (ferrite) inductor.
293  Using Arduino / Displays / Re: LCD displaying faded characters, good connection + code. on: May 06, 2014, 03:59:34 pm
Hi James1402.

This kind of thing happens when you are updating your screen faster than it can cope with.
LCD's like these are quite slow.
If this is a test sketch, add a delay() after writing to the display.
If not (hardly, as it is a Hello World sketch), only write new data to the screen and do not rewrite stuff that is already there.

If that doesn't help, or you aren't writing to your display continuously, try pressing gently on the black bezel.
If that helps, then you have a bad contact inside the display.
You could try to solve that by changing the clamps on the back of the PCB, that are supposed to hold the bezel on its place (rotate them a bit, but be careful).
294  Using Arduino / Displays / Re: 128x64 SD1306 oled noise on: May 06, 2014, 03:51:41 pm
Hi.

Read this thread (click !).
It is a bit lengthy, with 100 replies on 7 pages, but it might hold the solution for your problem.
I'm guessing there might be a reset problem, as i experienced with a similar display (same thing but white instead of yellow/blue).
You might need to control the reset using your Arduino in case you are switching the display on and off, or find a way to extend the duration of a present reset circuit (if present at all), read the thread.
295  Using Arduino / Displays / Re: Weird LCD issue on: May 06, 2014, 10:36:56 am
I read you think your code is OK, but without it, an answer is almost impossible.
So post your code to get any chance on a to the point answer.
There's more differences between an Uno an a 2560 beside the pinout, it's likely that's where the problem is.
296  Using Arduino / Motors, Mechanics, and Power / Re: L293D or L293B? on: May 06, 2014, 10:18:46 am
Pin 16 is a power input for the logic level of the IC.
Connect it to a 5 volt power supply, and make sure that the grounds of that power supply is connected to the ground of the power supply of the Arduino.
In case you'd decide to use the Arduino as power supply the grounds are already connected of course.
Whether or not it's a good idea to use the Arduino as a power supply depends on the load of that power supply (like how many LEDs and such do you have connected to it).

@raschemmel:
If you're replying to my reply, i didn't follow your link, thought you were linking to 1n4001 of your preference.
297  Using Arduino / Displays / Re: How can I connect this 2,8" TFT Display from BuyDisplay with the Arduino Due on: May 06, 2014, 07:00:43 am
Sure.
If pins 31, 32 and 33 aren't meant for the display, they are most likely meant for the SD card (as their names don't mention any function, i assumed they were for the display, which is the main function of that device).

IDE has examples available in file - examples - SD.

I can't tell you anything about the touch part.
298  Using Arduino / Motors, Mechanics, and Power / Re: L293D or L293B? on: May 06, 2014, 06:55:49 am
No, they are not fast diodes.
I would use a BYV27 (click !) (because i have a few of those available).
The generic 1n4148 diodes aren't fast and as raschemmel pointed out will probably not withstand the currents.
I mentioned fast diodes, as a lot of people building stuff like this aren't aware of their existence and purposes.

The L293 consists of 4 half bridges.
The PDF shows multiple options in 1 schematic.
You can use the L293 in any combination shown, you aren't restricted to those examples.
You can create 2 full bridges with them, 4 half bridges or any combination you like.
If you need to control 1 direction, you can do so with 1 half bridge.
If you need to control 2 directions, you need a full bridge.

If you want to control a stepper motor, you need a full bridge per coil pair.
Most hobby setups with steppers will require 2 full bridges, so one entire L293, which will probably be the reason for the existence of this package (except for the hobby part, very few hardware is produced just for hobbyists).

As you might see from this reply, there's a multitude of motor types available, and they aren't all to be powered the same way.
There are motors available that are made to rotate in a specific direction (most of those also have a gear attached).
But sometimes you just don't have a need for a motor to run in 2 directions.
So then you do not need to use a more complicated way of connecting them.
So you need to know what motor you are going to use before you are designing your electronics.
You need to know the motor anyway, because you also need to know the voltage, but more importantly the (stall) current it will take.
You might find out this driver isn't the best choice for your motor type, or maybe it is.
299  Using Arduino / Motors, Mechanics, and Power / Re: L293D or L293B? on: May 05, 2014, 04:24:32 pm
The motor on the left can be driven to run both clockwise or counterclockwise.
You need to drive both wires to the motor, so you need two drivers.
The motors on the right can turn clockwise only.
Here you only need to drive one wire, the other can be fixed (to GND in this case).
So you can do with just one driver.
300  Using Arduino / LEDs and Multiplexing / Re: Multiple LED's on separate pins, switches and functions - need guidance on: May 05, 2014, 04:09:20 pm
If i copy / paste the last posted code to IDE 1.0.5-r2, it will compile without errors.
So every line that needs it has it's semicolon.

The only times i see "loop" words, is in the //comments, and of course in void loop().
As comments are quite rudimentary, you could choose a synonym to the word "loop" or just dump it.

In my last post, i did identify while next to delay() as blocking code, but removed it (i didn't check how many whiles there actualy are).
While is a blocking code because it exclusively performs the code between the {curly braces} as long as the condition isn't met yet.

The blink without delay sketch is about keeping track of what you are doing and what you have been doing.
That means you need to store some values, and compare them each iteration of the program (the loop() ).
Once you do that and dump delay() and while(), you'll run through loop() very fast.
That will grant you time to do things while waiting for some other things to meet a set condition.

Try to understand that blink without delay sketch.
Once you do, you'll recognise that there isn't a lot of difference (none that i can think of right now) between delay() and while() if you can handle them using this technique.
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