LOL
I could use a MaaiRobot myself too, the green stuff outside is exploding at the moment.
But that'll take some time.
Got a lot to learn to get where you are, but still interesting stuff.
So i'll be that MaaiRobot (MowBot) myself next weekend i guess.

Indeed i forgot about RS and Enable pins.
That makes 6 pins and if you are controlling backlight, you'll need a 7th pin indeed.

At the moment the display is not enabled, you could use the data pins for other purposes, but things might get messy if you're doing that.

1602 tells you that there are 2 lines of 16 characters.
Displays of 4 lines and 20 or 40 characters per line are also known.

If you need to know more about a module (like is it 44780 comatible), look for its datasheet.

You do not need to use 7 datalines, you can do with 4 and most Arduino sketches do.

Wow great idea.
I have a WRT54GL serving as a network switch at the moment.
Jantjes idea is something to keep in mind for future use, thanks !

Mr. Kozlovsky1 has asked some questions about controlling his robot arm last week.
He uploaded his Fritzing! sketch there for us to check it.
The most recent sketch also has two LDRs drawn, connected to Analog in 0 and 1.
I guess that is what he is talking about.

I sure hope mr. Kozlovsky1 will mention this site as a source in his paper by the way.

We can't tell you a lot if you don't give more precise desriptions of the stuff you want to connect.
Do you have any idea how many magnetometers, ultrasonic detectors and proximity sensors are available ?
So tell us the productnames (maybe chiptyeps) of your sensors and motor.

This appears to be a new member picking up an old (> 6 months) thread.
The quote was unnecessary however.

@siko:
You need to learn some more basics.
If you have a range you want to use, you are the one to tell your Arduino how to handle that range.
So if off is 0, then do not allow the value to go below 0, and if on = 255 do not allow the value to be more than that.
Or if the value is already "out of range", force it back in range before you do anything else with it.
There are multiple ways of handling this.
Everything you need for that is already in the sketch, use your imagination to extend it to fit your needs.
(You just need to add 2 lines).

Start with counting all segments you want to display.
So 7 segments per number to display, each dot you want to control.
Maybe you should divide your tasks over multiple Arduino's
CrossRoads (a prominent member here) has several scoreboard projects so maybe he could help you out with some tips.
Do not expect people to do your work for wou however.

Second:
Do not put the same question (in different sections) multiple times on the board.
I replied here because i think this is the best place for this thread.

Yes you can.
(I don't think you can control the speed, but you can control the steps)
You'd have to approach it like "blink without delay".
If you got the concept of that, this should be possible too.
So set a value, but don't wait for that value to be reached.
Instead of that do some other things, and check if your value has been reached in the meantime (which is no difference from the for-next loop).
I guess you need to divide your sketch in sections and switch between them.
Do not use any delays except for debugging purposes.
Of course you will not be controlling both simultane, but you'll switch controlling them quite fast so they seem te be controlled at the same time.

I'll have a shot at it.
You've got a pot that reads 361 degrees ?
You are mapping it from 0 (the first value) to 360, and that results in 361 values.
Most pots can be turned about 270 degrees.
If you are going to convert, make sure you've got it right.
But that's not what your question was about.

You want to break down your value to separate characters.
I'm not sure as i haven't played with that yet, but i think you can convert your value to a string.
Once you've done that, you can break the reuslt down into separate characters.
Those are then sent to your printing routine.
You can find extensive information about String (capital S) in the reference part of this site.
It will take some reading and studying, but i think this is a way to do what you're after.

Hi.

You are not telling us what you already did and the results of that, so let's start guessing:

You need to check a few things.
First of all, check what communication mode is to be used.
The ADXL345 supports more than 1 mode.
You should try to use the same mode for both of your devices, and i'd suggest to use I2C (i'm not sure about the SD card supports that).
If you do use I2C, check what address is assigned to your device, each should have its own address.
And you need to check whether termination resistors are in use or not.
There should be termination resistors on 1 device only, prefereble the device that is farthest from your Arduino.

If you don't know the addresses and cannot find them in documentation, you can use Nick Gammon's I2C scanner.
That will tell you the addresses of any device that answeres its "ping".

And if you are mentioning "Your code", post it so someone can have a look at it.
Use the "insert code" button, to be found just on top of the text edit box you type a reply in.

If you're stuck right now, you might consider alternatives like altering your built prototype (isn't that what a prototype is for ?) while waiting for someone to hand you a solution.
You'll see, once you've changed your current setup, someone will pop up with that solution for you.

OK, you got it working.
The resisitor in your drawings has to be either in the red line, or in the black line, but doens't make sense to have it between those 2 diodes.
It can very well be that this resistor is actually placed between the diodes, but not connected that way.
But you've got it working, that's what's important.

Your link doesn't work, i don't know how to link to that amazon page.

I've never heard of the fixpoint brand, and the pics show an iron that is much like a lot of real cheap ones i've seen.
No doubt it's in a complete different league compared to any Weller product.

That said, you could very well be using this iron happily (ever after...) without any problem, who's to say.
It wouldn't be my choice if i needed it on a daily basis.

Hi JoranDavidson.

This is very basic stuff.
Go get the blink sketch and play around with that.
Also get yourself a breadboard and a set of jumperwires.
This is the stuff that is in a starterkit.
That has answered your questions already.

Arduino is about learning and fun (or the other way around).
Because of that, you'll have to figure out some stuff yourself and i'm out on a limb already by answering your question.
One final advice: Don't keep staring at your end goal.
Take it step by step, divide your "problem" in smaller problems to solve.
Blink is free.
Double blink is for you to figure out.
Once you've done that ten is easy and will be fun too.

Next assignment: make them fade instead of flash .