Hmm ,
   I had this exact same set of symptom(s) occur to me also while working with the 1284P(s) chip on my sanguino breakout(replaced my 644P). I have burned the adaboot 1284 bootloader using a spare 328P dieciellma loaded with megaISP and prevented from booting with the 120ohm resistor trick.

I then found that I could NOT load arduino programs compiled to .hex files either from the command line(above error) or from the arduino environment(strange error after replacing avrdude, setspeed issues in that environment) after burning this bootloader.

However when I used the Arduino  in MegaISP mode to program the 1284P chip with the arduino test program EVERYTHING loaded and ran perfectly after bringing up the sanguino hardware.. (NOT a fuses issue)..this was from the command line(after bootloader programming).


      wondering what gives as I see people constantly searching for the solution to this error but having to load arduino .hex files with a ISP programmer gets highly inconvenient(at least in my case)... and sucks as a solution(I need to update the arduino environment properly for the new avrdude and 1284P chip)



             puzzled
             gwen

                            

MOST modern gas stove designs incorporate such valves... ie electrically operated... and  the valves for that application as well as larger are findable in the illustrated repair manuals online and orderable.. MUCH safer than fabricating yourself..
if in the SFO Bayarea please do consider either Techshop.ws(in SF) or the Crucible in Oakland for training in proper safety and design elements in gas piping for handling large gas burners...


          gwen
ps After just installing a instant on gas water heater I found there are code requirements when installing devices on a furnace line.. like increasing its size to accomodate the additional device(s) UNLESS(in california) they are water heaters and its  a safety requirement.. BUT an arduino managed interlock to lock out other gas consuming appliances when the new appliance is running would get around the safety concern although would NOT pass code requirements..

uh... port 71900??

max tcp/udp port is 65535    sure you are speaking tcp???


       better stop smokin that shite
       (unless you a patient of course!!)
        gwen

Hi All,
     
http://hmin.tripod.com/als/andysm/docs/electricfence.pdf  presents a dual 555 timer design using a 2n2222 to a 2n3055 and feeding an automotive coil to create electric fence pulses..

An arduino can create these pulses easily as well  as a circuit to measure the resistance when NOT creating HV pulses to determine if livestock are still trying to push against the fence ,  time for another very brief(low duty cycle) pulse.

And other duty cycles can be programmed as well

Dont forget a heat sink on  the 2n3055


                     gwen
ps this should get folks polarized somewhat(intended as a dual pun)!   

This is what I use... http://burglarbomb.com/Repulsar-IV.aspx
a little bit pricey ....(I managed to get mine wholesale but still $$$)

unit is a gravity enhanced design.. ie they use a standard pepper spray grenade(bug bomb type nozzle and catch) and the can is mounted  in a tube inverted over a well with a notch/lever designed to trip same(the bug bomb nozzle) when the can encounters same , on top of the bottom of the pepper spray can is a 1 lb metal weight, the can is held above the well with a solenoid activated release allowing the can to descend into the well(s) X 4 and release their contents one can after the other.. I will get you some closeups of the whole mechanism as my roommates did NOT want me deploying it yet(we are on the edge of the xxxxxxx ghetto) We chose dobermans instead ...

http://www.thehomesecuritysuperstore.com/throwing-grenades-sub=89 is one source for the type of pepper spray can you will need, the search term "pepper spray grenade" on google will get you a LOT more sources.

Do use VERY clear signage to warn LEO and emergency personel of the breathing hazard and DEFINITELY consider/design a loud VOICE alarm warning of the pending deployment..., and get a very good criminal defense attorney...

ie Shomer-tec.com used to sell a unit for about 129.00 but no more.. if access to the cans is obtained then a cylindrical trip mounted in the end of a tube of PVC/ABS sized to let the can slide accurately but freely and a DC/AC solenoid turned on/off by a power MOSFET/relay would give you almost the same effect for less than 30.00 or so(including the bug bomb type pepper spray and solenoid as well as mosfet) however you will lack the additional time delay of the commercial unit(which is designed to be added to a regular alarm system and spray after that has activated for a time...)...

I LIKE the following system  A LOT... very pricey and VERY MASSIVE/EFFECTIVE



stealthguard

http://www.aerostealth.com/index.html

A very low cost unit is a DC 4" bilge blower and ducting mounted over a small AC hotplate with a well heatsinked logic level AC SSR to turn on the heatplate, a 30.00 PID controller and thermocouple could be added for totally accurate vapor temps or simply pid code in your arduino program and a thermocouple interface/thermocouple) and of course a handful of dried habernero/scotch broom or Bhutanese Ghost Peppers(most potent of the weapons grade peppers) in a small pan on top of the hotplate .(http://www.chilepepperinstitute.org/cart/product/bhut_jolokia/) . When the entry sensor is tripped then the hot plate is heated slowly and turned off when the entry code is entered.. when an intrusion sensor is tripped a FULL on heating scheme is chosen until vapor temp is reached  and the bilge blower is activated directing the pepper vapor/smoke into the area to be denied(depending on hotplate can be ready in as little as a minute) the whole assembly should be built into a metal cabinet that you can duct easily...(vapor temp should be the vapor temp of capsicum)...

This last design of course is totally impossible to control or regulate by the authorities .. use code to time the on period /temp below combustion levels and turn off well in advance of that as it will be unattended.

Dont forget high intensity sound , high intensity strobing LEDS etc...and locking the perps into  a given space...
and an M17 gas mask for yourself along with the integral headcover...SOMEONE has to go in to open windows and turn on fans and you will have little bits of weapons grade pepper over everything for months so DONT use this around food/clothing(you get the idea) my wife still forbids any more experiments...NEVER EVER TEST 1 LB Pepper Foam Cannister(s) in the house by attempting to contain the sprayed foam in a large handful of paper toweling(YOU WILL FAIL!) trust me on this one! and that goes triple for bear spray(pepper gas)...

 ANY of the bear bombs/sprays or any POLICE type spray grenades are NON flammable by Federal standards(They have to be safe alongside Taser deployments without setting the criminal on fire)...

    hope all this helps
            and pepper spray/gas/vapor will kill MOST garden pests for you indoor garden types
             gwen
ps flamers and too curious types >/dev/null   (ie what he is trying to protect is his property and himself..I dont want to make comments about the illogic of such questions or my personal disgust with those who would tell us its illegal to defend our property(its not)  at least where I choose to live) A good use for these devices is to lock yourself into a saferoom(bedroom with a solid core door/reinforced frame)  in the event of home invasion(s)(they occur quite frequently in xxxxxxx) and then flood the remainder of the house with pepper/tear gas until Law enforcement comes..

            

Actually I am using a sanguino for the same purpose... I use 500 gph bilge pumps to control the ebb and flow tables , and an inexglobal.com Relay16 board attached by i2c to control pumping and control the lights via Solid State Relays mounted onto heat sinks.. also
http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/index.php?act=attach&type=post&id=91001 is an artificial reef controller arduino bootloader compatible design that incorporates isabella's PPM and PH measurement circuits with a 644P processor. Turns out artificial reef control and control of Hydroponics nutrients are almost the same measurement problem.. also try search keys of growduino on google..


     good luck with your project
     gwen
ps dont forget the k88 CO2 sensor i2c interface thread in these forums..
think DS1820/18B20 temp sensors in a network(one wire)
 

Hi all,
       I am replacing a simple thermostat-type control that has rusted out on our 300Gal  Gas Fired Hot Tub.  
My first pass at the problem is using a DS1820(havent gotten the onewire support libs working with the DS18B20 yet) in the intake line to the boiler to measure water temp coming from the tub, eventually I will measure the temperature of the exhaust flow from the boiler and the tub water itself to determine system efficiency.

The tub motor itself is controlled by a 24 hour mechanical timer.
The boiler is allowed to be activated by a flow switch and the former thermostat. I will have 2 mode(s) in which the PID controller will be used, initial heatup, 4-5 hours not on the timer, and daily for one
hour topoff heat.

I will be using a 328p arduino to read the DS1820 sensors , run the PID loop and control a DC SSR to handle the 400-600mv required to switch the boiler on.

I presently have shamelessly copied the BBCC while changing temperature goals(200F is a bit warm) and  I am changing both the temp input from ADC to DS1820 and replacing the output from PWM to min of 5 min flame on with ability to extend to continuous flame on and mandatory cool down time before relighting flames to minimize shock to  the boiler.

OR
   would the PID library with the same approach be just as versatile?
(prolly would, its just more of a blackbox to moi..)


     clues for the clueless here?(especially about tuning)(guess its time to study auto tune approaches for PIDs)
     gwen
ps the arduino PS will be plugged into a surge protector that is turn on by the same 24 hour mechanical timer/switch.

Thanx so much  went looking for the minimum pulse width  and never found it or understood it to be incorrectly floored at 2ms.

however tried your code and the readings come out a bit high(and with the doberman farting next to me its understandable(will have to add a methane sensor also to tell my software readings from the MG811 suspect when methane is found to be present))

 PPM Co2: 918  Raw Sensor: 461334
  PPM Co2: 917  Raw Sensor: 460844
  PPM Co2: 917  Raw Sensor: 460844
  PPM Co2: 916  Raw Sensor: 460344
  PPM Co2: 916  Raw Sensor: 460343
  PPM Co2: 914  Raw Sensor: 459356
  PPM Co2: 914  Raw Sensor: 459353
  PPM Co2: 914  Raw Sensor: 459352
  PPM Co2: 914  Raw Sensor: 459352
  PPM Co2: 912  Raw Sensor: 458361

     again thanx for the clarification(and code(still working with))

      gwen

and just tested your code to saturation of the sensor PWM output and its working correctly.. thanx so much.. now I can calibrate the MG811 sensors I will interface with rctime and 2 resistors like I did the HS-1101 sensor.  its really cool to see the sensor blinking once every 2 seconds and giving me Co2 levels(which will be used to control a blower and dampers)

    

HI All,    
        I am attempting to interface the above Co2 sensor via PWM input with a pulsein command, I have it hooked up to d14(sanguino) through a 10k resistor on the input and a pullup of 4.7K to +5V

I got the k22 from www.co2meters.com(datasheet is here http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0019/5952/files/Spec070426-K22-PWM_ed2-2000.pdf?1254409988).

int  pin=14;
unsigned long duration;

void setup()
{
  pinMode(pin, INPUT);
   Serial.begin(115200);
}

void loop()
{
  duration = pulseIn(pin, HIGH);
 Serial.print("  PPM Co2: ");
 Serial.print(duration/20/100,DEC);
 Serial.print("  Raw Sensor: ");
 Serial.println(duration,DEC);
}


not sure if the readings I am getting make much sense (it does react to my breath very well) so was going to use baking soda and vinegar to rig a saturation test cell
 
without breath on sensor:
PPM Co2: 138  Raw Sensor: 277993
  PPM Co2: 138  Raw Sensor: 277990
  PPM Co2: 138  Raw Sensor: 277994
  PPM Co2: 138  Raw Sensor: 277989


with breath on sensor:

  PPM Co2: 141  Raw Sensor: 283447
  PPM Co2: 412  Raw Sensor: 824556
  PPM Co2: 412  Raw Sensor: 824556
  PPM Co2: 496  Raw Sensor: 993037
  PPM Co2: 496  Raw Sensor: 993039
  PPM Co2: 496  Raw Sensor: 993040
  PPM Co2: 496  Raw Sensor: 993041
  PPM Co2: 496  Raw Sensor: 993040



        any suggestions from the forum?
        gwen
ie the readings off by 300-350ppm or so
(too low)

Hi Andrew,
  I just finally logged back on today and got your message.. yes 600-800 ppm is where most residences sit.
If you have your space filled with green plants like a greenhouse then the co2 can go lower as it is consumed by the respirating plants.


     gwen
ps good luck with that project

HI All,    
        I am posting this to interfacing in both forums as unsure about where this really belongs(moderators please feel free to place in correct forum)

I am attempting to interface the above Co2 sensor via PWM input with a pulsein command, I have it hooked up to d14(sanguino) through a 10k resistor on the input and a pullup of 4.7K to +5V

I got the k22 from www.co2meters.com(datasheet is here http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0019/5952/files/Spec070426-K22-PWM_ed2-2000.pdf?1254409988).

int  pin=14;
unsigned long duration;

void setup()
{
  pinMode(pin, INPUT);
   Serial.begin(115200);
}

void loop()
{
  duration = pulseIn(pin, HIGH);
 Serial.print("  PPM Co2: ");
 Serial.print(duration/20/100,DEC);
 Serial.print("  Raw Sensor: ");
 Serial.println(duration,DEC);
}


not sure if the readings I am getting make much sense (it does react to my breath very well) so was going to use baking soda and vinegar to rig a saturation test cell
 
without breath on sensor:
PPM Co2: 138  Raw Sensor: 277993
  PPM Co2: 138  Raw Sensor: 277990
  PPM Co2: 138  Raw Sensor: 277994
  PPM Co2: 138  Raw Sensor: 277989


with breath on sensor:

  PPM Co2: 141  Raw Sensor: 283447
  PPM Co2: 412  Raw Sensor: 824556
  PPM Co2: 412  Raw Sensor: 824556
  PPM Co2: 496  Raw Sensor: 993037
  PPM Co2: 496  Raw Sensor: 993039
  PPM Co2: 496  Raw Sensor: 993040
  PPM Co2: 496  Raw Sensor: 993041
  PPM Co2: 496  Raw Sensor: 993040



        any suggestions from the forum?
        gwen
ie the readings off by 300-350ppm or so
(too low)

Hi Ajb,  
     of course you are right about the names of the conductors,,(CRS remember

and there is a LOT of variability in SSRs

Opto-22 - built like a truck but no protective cover, does have heatsink plate built in dont know if screws are captive led model extra
liquid epoxy encapsulation. rated current without external heat sink
27.00 + cover cost
$$$

Omron  included captive screws safety cover, led indicated.. NO heat sink maximum rating for any with out HS is 4 amps(snubber)

15.75 for 10 amp
18.xx for 25 amp

    have one hooked to the arduino turning a small room fan on and off as a 96 hr burnin.

      MUST have MORE SSR(s) for total environment domination!

   Will setup the HPS digital ballast experiment tomorrow.


              gwen

hmm in the above post I should have stated switching common or hotside.. not ground or hotside.. sorry.. been up all night working on code for this..


     regards
     gwen

Hi Thomas,
     I should have specified  I am hijacking your thread slightly to bring up some concerns of mine and hopefully get some more input to my design issues .(and maybe illustrate some potential hazards for US users).

Given you are in amsterdam how is your 240AC supplied as 3 conductors + ground or as 2 conductors +ground?


I am in the US where 220-240 is wired as 2 hot leads @ 110v and a common, +ground while your relay in your case is switching a pump just fine, my concern is when attempting to switch from other than the hot leads  you leave a very hazardous circuit in place(especially for pumping conductive liquids).
  

So the real query here is and yes I am replying to the right post, is how exactly is the 240VAC oresented at the socket to you.

 as a single 240AC conductor or 2 conductors? if as a single 240AC conductor then yes you will be ok with switching one hot lead.

And are you switching the the hot conductor(s) or ground  lead with the SSR?

BUT if it is presented as 2 hot leads you may want to put a call into Crydom for a support inquiry like I did to the ballast manufacturer and to Opto22.

   and on another side note, SSR(s) are being incorporated into HPS electronic(digital) ballasts already(too expensive ).  Even Magnetic(transformer) ballasts can be accommodated with proper circuit design according to the data sheeet from Opto22.

and I was advised by ALL concerned to always switch the hot side NOT the ground, to do otherwise leaves a fully energized circuit just waiting for someone to make the connection to ground(with a part of their body).
 Switching the hotside conductor(s) leaves only leakage current to deal with in the circuit, in addition I am also installing a 240ACGFI breaker.  

Why all the caution? the design is ultimately meant for green house enthusiasts to add supplemental HPS lighting in fall and winter as well as part of a complete Hydroponic control system I am designing and implementing.

As I am older and suffering from CRS(cant remember S**T!), I am trying to design my circuit NOT to cause me an early end  (or any person who might attempt to duplicate my design(I am preparing a wiki pages on same eventually).

And finally the SSR will switch quite happily either the ground circuit or the hot side the safety depends on which path is switched.

Very happy your SSR is working for you though,I  just wish the US system didnt make things quite so complicated(the SSR manufacturer loves selling 2X as many relays for these kind of apps I suspect.)

    any comment on all my drivel above??

       kind regards
      gwen(who is greatly upset by having his SSR budget doubled because of the above)

hmm you arent the same thomas S from rcgoups.com are you?

Hmm,
I have a similar problem controlling 240V HPS electronic ballasts @ 5.5A and called Opto22.
 Given the presence of 2 x 120V hot conductors for a 240V circuit I was advised to switch the hotside only(not ground) to turn off the ballast somewhat safely and then only have leakage current to worry about
ie the engineer approved solution is to use 2 x 240 SSR  ie 1 per hot conductor and switch from the same output pin. (and what the ballast manufacturer recommended also)

I was just in the process of ordering the SSR(s) when I came across this forum post

Any body have any input to the HPS electronic ballast issue @ 240V?

      
      gwen