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1  Community / Exhibition / Gallery / Re: Classic 70's TV game reproduced on the Arduino/AMTEGA328 on: October 07, 2013, 07:25:09 pm
Thanks for the updates Grant.
2  Community / Exhibition / Gallery / Re: Classic 70's TV game reproduced on the Arduino/AMTEGA328 on: September 03, 2013, 09:18:20 am
Thanks Grant, I'll pass it on.
3  Using Arduino / Installation & Troubleshooting / Re: Multiple Problems with Arduino Leonardo on: September 03, 2013, 09:15:45 am
Good story.  At least we know we're not alone.
4  Community / Exhibition / Gallery / Re: Classic 70's TV game reproduced on the Arduino/AMTEGA328 on: August 30, 2013, 04:06:32 pm
Sorry it's taken me so long to get back to you Grant.  Life got busy.

I tried your new code and it works great!

I was talking to a friend of mind that owns a small business making stuff for Arduinos.  He thought he might like to make a shield that accommodates this game.  Would you have an issue with this?

My next step in this is to build mine into a glass-top table and re-arrange the graphics slightly to make a '70s era bar video game.  Should be a great way to quaff a few pints of Guinness.  I know I spent a lot of time, money and my liver playing those bar games circa 1974 when I bought my Yamaha RD350.

Those were the days... bikes, bars and broa..err, ladies!.

5  Using Arduino / General Electronics / Re: Is it the linearity of the Analog input affected by the potentiometer value? on: August 21, 2013, 05:36:37 pm
Let's take a quick look.  Assume a 100K pot. Assume the leakage current on an analog I/O pin could be as much as 1.5uA.  Across a 100K resistor that would amount to about .15V or about 3%, which for 10bit ADC is quite high.  I'd say you'd need to be more in the 10K Ohm range and use a cermet pot if linearity is truly important to you.

Edit:  BTW, this is what is referred to as a 'back of the envelope' calculation.  The idea was to get in ballpark, not work it out ot 10-24 precision.  So, all the AR types, relax.
6  Using Arduino / General Electronics / Re: LIPO BATTERY HELP on: August 21, 2013, 05:17:53 pm
The Arduino can connect directly to the battery through the DC barrel connector.  Use a 5.5mm x 2.1mm plug with positive to the center pin, like this: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/2-x-DC-Power-Plug-2-1mm-x-5-5mm-x-14mm-Free-Ship-/250887390753?p.

Then power the all the WS2803D separately off the battery using something like this: www.ebay.ca/itm/DC-Converter-Module-24V-12v-convert-to-5V-5V-5A-25W-output-power-adapt-adapter-/261020317417?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&h

Make sure the grounds are connected together. 
7  Community / Exhibition / Gallery / Re: Classic 70's TV game reproduced on the Arduino/AMTEGA328 on: August 21, 2013, 09:56:31 am
@zx80nut

Using a free pin for NTSC would be a great idea.  My values were an educated guess on what would work.  I'm sure they'll have to be tweaked for authenticity.

OT from here -:

Yes, I saw your new minimal 6502.  Not bad at all.  If you use a 1.8432mHz oscillator (and not call it an IC) and use a 65C51 ACIA I think you could get it down to 5 chips (or 4 with the USB cable).

I'm really keen on that CP/M machine though.  If I get some spare time I'll build one of those.

I've attached a .png of my decode circuit for the UK101.

PS:  The guy's name in the file is not me, just the guy who did up the schematic from my hand scrawl.
8  Community / Exhibition / Gallery / Re: Classic 70's TV game reproduced on the Arduino/AMTEGA328 on: August 19, 2013, 07:34:16 pm
Just edited the values.  Did not even rename the defines.

Here they are:
Code:
const char FIELD_HEIGHT=100;          //Was 115
const char SOCCER_EDGE_HEIGHT=20;     //Was 25

Code:
beginVideo(80,100);          //Was (80,116)

Code:
#define _TIME_VERT_SYNC 60         //Was 58.85

Code:
#define _PAL_TIME_SCANLINE         63.625     //Was 64
#define _PAL_TIME_OUTPUT_START 11         //Was 12.5
#define _PALLine_FRAME 282        //Was 312
#define _PALLine_START_VSYNC 0          //NC
#define _PALLine_STOP_VSYNC 3          //NC
#define _PALLine_DISPLAY 220        //Was 260
9  Using Arduino / General Electronics / Re: Duracell Quantum tested? on: August 19, 2013, 07:47:05 am
No.  I am skeptical about the capacity.  At what rate?  At least the price is reasonable.

Alkalines do not generally like really high discharge rates.  It plays havoc with their chemistry.  I see no reason to to believe these are substantially better in this respect.  If you need high peak discharge rates, Lithium are probably still your best bet, even though they are ridiculously (and unnecessarily, IMHO) expensive.
10  Using Arduino / General Electronics / Re: Recommended electronics books for the new hobbyist on: August 19, 2013, 07:39:12 am
I'll also put in my vote for "Electronic Principles" by Paul Malvino.  Mine is the 1984 version, but It's on the shelf at my workbench and used frequently.  Other good titles by the same author:

"Digital Principles and Applications" (go for the newest edition - digital changes rapidly)
"Experiments for Electronic Principles"

I like the "All About Circuits" site too. http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/  They have a pretty good forum over there as well.
11  Community / Exhibition / Gallery / Re: Classic 70's TV game reproduced on the Arduino/AMTEGA328 on: August 18, 2013, 06:23:51 pm
Hi.
Thought you might be interested in one of my projects.

Just built one this afternoon.  Thanks Grant!  You do some really nice stuff.  I'm jealous.

BTW, I have the changes required to run this on NTSC.  If your interested I will up-load the lines of your code that need to be changed.

EDIT and OT - Oh, a few years back I built one of your UK101 SBCs.  Well almost.  I made a small change to the glue logic, and with the same number of chips it can run the UK101/OSI BASIC, Tiny BASIC, or EhBASIC.  The change fills in some of the holes in the memory map so that you can have more ROM.  Let me know if you'd like that too.
12  Using Arduino / General Electronics / Re: Reducing Excess energy consumptiom on: July 07, 2013, 08:34:22 am
Get some perspective.

Are you just going to jump all over everything BillO writes?  How does this inane arguing help the OP?  If another user shares something you might not agree with, it's enough for you to share your 'perspective' for the rest to see without the personal attacks.

There is usually more than one way to skin every cat and the OP is best served by seeing as many of them as possible, not by seeing endless dribble about why you think some other response is not to your liking.
13  Using Arduino / Installation & Troubleshooting / Re: Arduino UNO hang and can't be programmed anymore on: July 05, 2013, 06:52:27 pm
Perhaps there is a broken trace or bad solder joint on the board.  Have you checked connectivity between the FTDI chip and the 328?  Also check the reset circuit.
14  Using Arduino / Installation & Troubleshooting / Re: Arduino UNO hang and can't be programmed anymore on: July 05, 2013, 08:47:10 am
Is there anything connected to the board?
15  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: High Pressure Sensors on: May 09, 2013, 06:24:50 pm
How on earth would you hook up a pressure sensor the rear suspension?  I guess you could put it in place of the nitrogen filler or provide some sor of 'y' fitting to get both on there at the same time.  However, you would then have to do a lot of calculations on the raw data to determine rear wheel travel from the pressure.  Some things you would have to take into account are:

Pressure
Temperature of shock gas
Volume vs. shock displacement
rising rate of suspension linkage

It wloud get complicated

In my opinion you'd want to use a linear displacement sensor.  Something like this: http://www.pennyandgiles.com/linear-displacement-sensor-pd-109,3,,.php

It would make your life very much easier.
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