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166  Using Arduino / Displays / Re: LCD interfearing with SD on: July 16, 2014, 08:15:36 pm
While I'm sure you are right about SD on SPI ,and I assume you have SD chipselect sorted, it is normal procedure to use

  pinMode(53, OUTPUT);

with a Mega and I can't see that, so you might try it. I would be inclined to use pin 4 for SD select, just to stay with convention

I think

   SPI.begin();

is redundant, but probably harmless.
167  Using Arduino / Displays / Re: LCD interfearing with SD on: July 16, 2014, 11:33:12 am
Does the SD work when the LCD is disconnected. I ask this because you are not using the common pin calls for it.
168  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: LCD keypad shield with a WiFi shield pin problems on: July 16, 2014, 08:11:31 am
I don't think it matters what WiFi shield you have, the LCD shield is the problem and you would be very unlucky if it can't be fixed there. Those shields have a full complement of pins and a lot of them are spares. You can see pins D1>7 and A1>5 all have solder points beside them thereby enabling you to run jumpers for this very purpose.

A typical example is that D4 is chipselect for SD on an Ethernet shield - no options - while you are calling it for LCD. Your option on this board is to clip D4 and run a wire from D4 to D2, or even A2, and alter the code accordingly.

 I have yet see a situation where you can't stack shields, and the above is about as difficult as it gets.

Another option is to do the jumping on an intermediate proto shield, clip the relevant pin thereon, and leave the LCD shield virgo intacto.
169  Using Arduino / Networking, Protocols, and Devices / Re: Arduino Wireless Bluetooth Transceiver Module phone connecting problem on: July 16, 2014, 02:50:25 am
There is a lot of technobabble about "avrdude: stk500_getsync(): not in sync: resp=0x00", so be careful, as  most of which is baloney that you can safely ignore. It could simply mean a bad USB cable. You are bound to have several, so try another.

Refusal of the password is more likely to be down to the wrong password than a bad app so try "0000" instead
170  Using Arduino / Sensors / Re: DS18B20 & IR Sensor questions(not using both together, just general Q about 'em) on: July 16, 2014, 02:37:59 am
Yes, 4.7k, 4k7, 4700 ohms is the standard pullup resistor for DS18B20.
171  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: Use Arduino to record data without USB plugged in to computer? on: July 16, 2014, 02:34:43 am
Essentially right, but a 9v battery isn't a good idea, and a 9v wall art is a much better one. If you must use batteries, 6 AAs, or even 5, are a better proposition.  You will clearly need an SD of one sort or another. Note that they are usually included with Ethernet shields etc. You are also likely to need a clock.

I think taking Arduino away from the PC now is none too soon, if only because the power supply via the USB cable is marginal anyway. A wall wart is much more capable.  
172  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: DS18B20 not detected on: July 16, 2014, 02:23:43 am

I just wish my waterproof ds18b20 wasn't so slow to react.

Well, what's slow?  I can grab a sensor and see the change the next time round on a one second loop. Anything faster would be stretching the friendship with the reading cycle.
173  Using Arduino / Sensors / Re: DS18B20 & IR Sensor questions(not using both together, just general Q about 'em) on: July 15, 2014, 11:16:09 pm

Regarding the DS18B20...what do you mean (I am pretty new to all this terminology) - is that something else I need to buy or is it more like adding a resistor in the path?

Edit: I found this site, and it looks like I need a SensorShield?

Ignore the site, and that, or any other, sensor shield is a bad idea unless you are certain that what you want to plug into it will plug into it, an event I have never known to happen. You are better off starting with a  $0.50 breadboard, it will be one of your better investments. Ultimately, you might make your own sensor shields, thereby by getting exactly what you want.

The DS18B20 looks a good deal at that price.   
174  Using Arduino / Displays / Re: Nokia 5110 LCD - possible broken [SOLVED] on: July 15, 2014, 10:54:53 pm
You should use a resistor for the backlight, 820 is fine. If the backlight is blue, you might find it just as readable with it disconnected.   
175  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: Arduino Uno with Android on: July 15, 2014, 08:33:17 pm
OK. Harking back to reply #3, this is an android problem, and I still think it is a non-starter. 

It would appear that the LEDs are indeed used as strobe illumination of a moving secret something, thereby providing rapid stop-motion - hence the need for the brief flashes. Even if you won't reveal the secret, this all sounds reasonable and your only problem is to ensure the Android is up to the job, which it probably isn't - hence my suspicion that you have been sent on a wild goose chase.

However, in the light of

Quote
to just focus on getting the Arduino and the Android synced and working together.

and grabbing the word "synched" while noting the conspicuous absence of the word "control", you might be able to tailor the job to Android's abilities. By this I mean simply using Arduino to adjust the LED flash rate to match the frame rate of Android's movie. This would mean start-time as well as frame rate.  I am assuming that you can see what's going on through Android's screen. Arduino might also be used for adjusting the LEDs brightness, but there may be no need for that. My Android has no controls for its movie camera - no surprise -  but it does have settings for the picture size and the frame-rate could vary with it.   

You will probaly want to use a frame-grabber, something like RADVideo, and you could use that to test for frame-rate by exploding a movie clip.
176  Using Arduino / Storage / Re: SD Card Module on: July 15, 2014, 07:00:14 pm
In that case, looking to check was a good idea, and using a converter isn't.

The next thing to try is ignore reply#1, delete

 pinMode(10, OUTPUT);

and use

 pinMode(53, OUTPUT);

which is standard procedure for a Mega, and clearly shown as comment in the code you already have.  Your code seems to be otherwise OK, although keeping the redundant line

   while (!Serial) {
    ; // wait for serial port to connect. Needed for Leonardo only

can't be a good idea.

All this assumes you are using the the standard wiring for Mega

 ** MISO - 50
 ** MOSI  - 51
 ** CLK   -   52
 ** CS     -    4

or the ICSP pins, which are common to Uno and Mega. You can, of course use any pin for CS, so long as you identify it in the code.  A shield I have for a Mega uses pin 53, and this is probably common practice

Code:
const int chipSelect = 53;   

void setup(){
  pinMode(53, OUTPUT);   
  Serial.begin(9600);
  Serial.print("\nInitializing SD card...");

177  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: Power between shields - VIN and 5v on: July 14, 2014, 08:41:14 pm
Something for the proto shield then? I cannot identify the regulators, they all look the same
178  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: Hi. Im new here and new to electronics. Just have some noob questions. on: July 14, 2014, 07:52:40 pm
. Hundreds and hundreds of rgb and white leds. I want to be able to program all the effects myself and be able to switch from effect to effect via buttons. Thats the simplest goal for right now.

I guess the first thing to do is check out the means of powering them.

A starter kit is a fair answer if you have no idea of what you are doing and are just getting it for your nephew's birthday.  You would be better off thinking about it first, and then getting a Uno, or probably a Mega, and some parts that are appropriate to your needs. You will get plenty of support here.
179  Using Arduino / Storage / Re: SD Card Module on: July 14, 2014, 07:07:28 pm
I though the module was ready to convert 5v to 3.3v. I'll try using a voltage converter and a better source

You are probably right, I think most SD modules are good for 5v, and it will pay to check before you do anything. It should be clear enough, with a pin labelled 5v. If it doesn't have a 5v pin, it might be simpler to pay up another $2.50 and get a module that does..
180  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: Power between shields - VIN and 5v on: July 14, 2014, 06:42:12 pm
I am now looking to use the 5v pin and feeding down from a proto shield with its own barrel jack. It took a PM and some divine inspiration to realise that the normal feed to the W5100 via VIN is probably out of play if there is nothing on the Mega's jack.
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