Hi, I've made a ton of progress on this since then. I'm using a fotek 40amp ssr and only paid $7.00 or so shipped from china. I can't find the 40 amp ones that cheap anymore though. Here's a 25amp ssr like I have which might be fine with what you're doing depending on wattage of heaters and how many heaters etc.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SSR-25-DA-Solid-State-Relay-PID-Temperature-Controller-25A-Output-24V-380V-/271092328688?_trksid=p2045573.m2102&_trkparms=aid%3D555001%26algo%3DPW.CURRENT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D146%26meid%3D6411926506775367794%26pid%3D100034%26prg%3D1079%26rk%3D1%26sd%3D390195438437%26

I'm using halogen lamps but you can use different kinds of heating elements. I actually created a forum for DIY BGA guys but its not limited to that. Anything with heating elements and even more is welcome. Not much activity so far but people do check.

diybga.com

I'm even farther with it now but here's a video but not explained very well.



Cheers

Wow. I honestly didn't remember posting this until I checked my replies... Too much 'sauce' that night... 

I can see where saying mixed types sounds incorrect but you were correct in your assumption. I can post code but its like 45k already since its written badly, as I had no clue about anything until I was almost done. Still barely starting to learn really.

The ranges for variables range quite a bit.  I will read up and thanks for the idea.

Hi, I have a sketch that works now with lcd menu and momentary on switches(saves to eeprom)but I want to add PC control to it. My problem is I need to send up to around 40 different variables of mixed types to arduino. Not only do I need 40 or so different values sent but there is 4 different sets of 40 or so variables....Using mega 2560 so there's plenty of room for sketch.

I've been trying to think of an elegant solution for this but coming up short.  Any ideas?

I don't think he was posting actual code just idea like I was.

I'm beginner as well but I'll try to help. You have less than 24 degrees and greater than 24 degrees there. May want to add less than or equal to 24 degrees. Once its 24 degrees exactly what would happen?

Code:

if (temperature <= 24)

For clearing the hot hot hot you simply set the cursor to where you need to and

Code:

lcd.print("            ");

Just prints spaces. Was this what you're trying to do? Remember that when you want to print the hot hot hot you'll need to set the cursor back to the correct position.

@arrch good call haha! I missed your post.

I'm not sure if there's a better way to do that but it works. Hopefully someone else with more experience can chime in.

I'm guessing you're using Brett Beauregard's PID library? If so, you may want to try posting in the DIY PID google group. I've seen many questions about autotune.

https://groups.google.com/forum/?fromgroups#!forum/diy-pid-control

Have you tried tuning it manually? There's some ways to make it easier like using lower windowsize and outputlimits etc. I'm a noob as well but working on it. Hope you find what you're looking for.

Moderator edit: link fixed.

I'm a backwards type of person as well lol. Thanks for the replies.

Thank you Mike. I read it. Looks like in most cases with short wire runs are fine with internal pull up resistor. I haven't tested yet though. My button board is working but I'm totally switching to panel mount switches instead of through hole switches. Going to be a bit until I actually have to chance to see how it works.

Cheers

I'm still new at this arduino thing. When I first began I needed a button array. The tutorial I went by used pull down resistors for the switches.  I'm learning now that the arduino has built in pull up resistors so all we need to do is wire one side of switch and other to ground then set the switch pin as INPUT and HIGH to get it to work. Of course then checking if the pin is LOW for when pressed etc. I read up on it.

My real question is why would anyone ever use pull down resistors with a momentary switch? I've read there's less noise using the onboard pull up resistors.

Thanks in advance!

There's even two way radios with vibrate function.

Thanks for tip.

This is a simple idea but will end up costing some money and plenty of work. Do they need to have batteries? What kind of enclosure do you want to put each one in?  I'm pretty sure you can use bluetooth chat for this(even with leds and other functions) but don't quote me, as I've never used it.  Either way I'm thinking it'll be a pretty big project to just ask for someone to basically do it for you although, I'm sure almost anyone would feel for them.

Is there any kind of already built option for them? Seems like there should be. Have you looked into it?

With the help from you guys here I've finished my code.   Will post in showcase after I get my machine done. I just googled arduino rework station and this was first result so I wanted to update. Pretty amazing really, as there are plenty of other people with similar projects.

Thanks again guys!

Here's video of what it looks like so far.

@jimmy60 You're a genuis! Totally worked first try. All I did was when I went

if currentMillis - previousMillis > 1000 / rampRateStep1//(.25 first try)
previousMillis = currentMillis;
counter = counter + 1
setpointRamp = startTemp + counter;//actually updates setpoint here.

WORKS PERFECT! Thanks again!

+ karma for all you guys.

@John Yes, that's the problem exactly.  I tried to make it go straight to IDLE state from loop then pasted that code to setup LCD but buttons wouldn't work after? Weird huh?  I'm going to try again in a different smaller sketch and see how I can make it work.

@Peter  Yes. Its a weird situation to me too.  I'm not sure how to make a timer to convert .25 to 1 degree every 4 seconds VS 250ms.  It works perfectly for 1 second increments of course but I need slower than that. I will write up a different sketch so its not so rough to go through and read etc. I didn't even use comments really...

@jimmy  Good call! I'll / instead of * . I think that's the ticket actually!!!

Thanks for the replies guys. This is so close to being done.