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1  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: I2C between 5V Uno and 3.3V Pro Mini on: May 13, 2013, 10:22:32 pm
You might try using using Adafruit's '4-channel I2C-safe Bi-directional Logic Level Converter - BSS138'.

It's only $4:  http://www.adafruit.com/products/757
2  Using Arduino / General Electronics / Re: Where do you buy your components? on: May 12, 2013, 08:19:26 pm
Let's not forget about adafruit.com, pololu.com and sparkfun.com if you want to play with surface mount components.  They sell a lot of breakout boards with cool things like surface mount accelerometers, gyroscopes, GPS, etc...   You can plug the breakout boards into breadboards and have fun with them, without having to deal with surface mount soldering.

I'm particularly fond of adafruit breakout boards because they usually include a voltage regulator circuit, that allows you to use the components with 5V or 3.3V.  Surface mount components generally use 3.3V

For mechanical "robotish" stuff, servocity.com is like a candy store to a 6 year old.
3  Using Arduino / Motors, Mechanics, and Power / Re: Changing Servo library frequency? on: May 12, 2013, 07:46:15 pm
I think that the 1520┬Ás/333hz speed/frequency specification is just the clock speed associated with the digital circuitry within the actual servo.  It doesn't have much to do with the pulse widths used to control the servo's position.

You can however explicitly define the minimum and maximum pulse widths with the attach command (in the servo library).  The servo library defaults the attach command to a minimum pulse width of 1ms and a maximum pulse width of 2ms.

If you were attaching a servo with a minimum pulse width of 0.9 ms and maximum pulse width of 2.1ms to pin 9, you would do it like this:

MyServo.attach(9, 900, 2100);   
//MyServo.attach(pin, min, max); 
//The min and max values are specified in microseconds.

A lot of times people don't explicitly define the maximum and minimum pulse widths because the defaults are close enough to the specified pulse widths, for a specific servo.

4  Using Arduino / Motors, Mechanics, and Power / First look at ServoBlocks (from servocity.com) on: May 12, 2013, 05:59:55 pm
This is my first look at ServoBlocks.  I probably should have posted it before my Roll & Tilt Camera Gimbal post...

5  Using Arduino / Motors, Mechanics, and Power / Roll & Tilt Camera Gimbal using ServoBlocks on: May 12, 2013, 02:10:20 pm
I threw together a Roll & Tilt Camera Gimbal using a couple of servos and ServoBlocks.  Mounting servos and attaching them to things is so much easier with ServoBlocks.  This is the Camera Gimbal I threw together:



This video gives you an idea about how they can be used:

6  Using Arduino / Sensors / Re: Accelerometer and Magnetometer calibration on: February 04, 2013, 03:35:12 am
I could complain about it not being red, green and blue, but that would make me an ahole.

Good job.


7  Using Arduino / Sensors / Re: Accelerometer and Magnetometer calibration on: February 01, 2013, 09:07:49 pm
Here is the design I came up for a yaw/pitch/roll 3 gimbal jig. I should be getting the rest of the hardware tonight and starting on it tomorrow.  Should cost less than $20.  If that helps me calibrate my sensor, then it will be money well worth it.  If not, well it will be a fun little project anyway. :-)

Please post some pictures when you're done.  I might need to make a rig like that, to test the project I'm working on.

Thanks
8  Using Arduino / Programming Questions / Re: Need help with programming ATMega32 on: January 28, 2013, 12:42:38 pm
Here is a playlist of youtube videos, that shows how to program an Atmega32 with an AVRISP mkII in system programmer and Atmel Studio.

Code:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JL_K5vABuiQ&list=PLss7hW9Gw2lYkcQ6rc7KGNebddcbfzr91


Holger
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9  Development / Other Hardware Development / Re: proto for 2560 How to get it wrong - twice on: January 27, 2013, 09:12:10 pm
Thanks for all the info about the headers and the power jack.  I never really gave the headers a second thought, until now. 

I think I might go for the least elegant solution to this problem.  I don't need the part of the proto shield that sits on top of the Due's power jack, so I'm probably just going to remove it.  That part of the proto shield is for the extra push button.

Wanted to buy a nibbler a few days ago but couldn't justify it, due to lack of need.  Now I need one and have to get one.  That's a win!


Holger
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10  Community / Website and Forum / Re: how do i put in a youtube video on the form related to your project? on: January 27, 2013, 03:32:55 pm
It's probably too easy, which makes it not very obvious.  You don't need any fancy embed html or anything.  Just past the bare bones url for the video into your post and it will be embedded for you.

Pasting this url into a post:
Code:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h6hEdJxc47M

Ends up looking like this:




Holger
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11  Development / Other Hardware Development / Re: proto for 2560 How to get it wrong - twice on: January 27, 2013, 12:56:53 pm
You might want to take a look at the shields offered by NKC Electronics.  They seem to look a bit better. They definitely don't have a larger footprint than the actual Arduino boards, they're supposed to be used with

This is a a link for their "MEGAshield PCB for Arduino MEGA and MEGA 2560": http://www.nkcelectronics.com/arduino-megashield-pcb.html

I have a "MEGAshield KIT for Arduino MEGA 2560 R3 and Arduino DUE" which seems to be pretty good: http://www.nkcelectronics.com/MEGAshield-KIT-for-Arduino-MEGA-2560-R3-and-Arduino-DUE_p_309.html




Holger
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