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1  Using Arduino / Networking, Protocols, and Devices / Re: USB to Serial communication ATMEGA 328 standalone. on: March 17, 2014, 06:10:27 pm
Good catch!  Yes, All signals require a common GND return.    I hit the same, when I tried making a expanded "Buttons" over Network, and suddenly realized, even after trying all the suggestions I got from here, and still not having it work, that... the common power rails on a long breadboard section, were not 2 solid, but... 4...(<insert Homer> smiley-eek-blue D'OH! </homer>)
An alternative, to the FTDI dongle, you could pull the ATMEGA328 from a socketed Arduino, and use the digital 0 & 1 pins (TX & RX going TX to TX, RX to RX I believe, Don't quote me on that.) to a stand-alone 328. (as long as the stand-alone has the bootloader.)
2  Using Arduino / Networking, Protocols, and Devices / Re: Ethernet shield tutorial on: January 04, 2014, 08:18:57 pm
Just downloaded the individual pages. (19 total! EEK! smiley-eek) I've done a few ethernet experiments with the Ethernet shield (non-R3, and an even older one w/o the SD card), being fed from a cheap WiFi router, and talked to from the laptop via WiFi. (one fair warning to others, Not every router defaults to 192.168.1.1 some are 192.168.2.1 .  Be sure to set your code accordingly to the router.)
 
One thing I'm having trouble with, and others have as well, the +5V regulator on the board (On the Duemilinova & the Uno) get real hot using these shields.. The W5100 seems to draw an enormous amount, going from the +5V down to 3.3V. (the shield's on-board 3.3V regulator.)  Is it possible to maybe draw the +5V from another source?  The newer w/SD also draws +5V through the ICSP socket, but the older one has no ICSP.. what I'm thinking of, is running a wire from the power supply (a modified 200W ATX supply) to the +5V, Isolating that pin from the header of the Arduino.  But.. that ICSP pin is the stumbler... Would I need to isolate that one as well?

Stephen
3  Using Arduino / Programming Questions / Is 1.5.5 the new IDE for All? or is 1.05 the latest IDE for the MEGA and down? on: December 13, 2013, 01:01:56 pm
I've noticed all new IDE's for the YUN, DUE, etc.. But has development for the MEGA2560, down, stopped at 1.0.5?
I'm all for development for the new boards, but has the life of the ATMEGA & MEGA ended?
4  Using Arduino / Networking, Protocols, and Devices / Re: Controlling servos on Xbee on: October 12, 2013, 10:16:52 pm
You might want to try this page offsite, from Digi..  http://examples.digi.com/lights-motors-more/802-15-4-pwm-output-with-an-led/ ,  It sends PWM output to an LED, which might be do-able to a servo, but remember, the output is going to be 3.3V, unless you feed it through a level converter..

I haven't read the entire page set, but I'm guessing the input is from a potentiometer connected to one of the analog inputs on the sender XBEE, then sends the output to one of the PWM lines on the receiver XBEE.
5  Using Arduino / Networking, Protocols, and Devices / Re: Hello? Who's out there? I2C address unknown, how to obtain it? on: October 06, 2013, 09:50:01 pm
Well, after 3/4 of a year since this thread was active, I pulled the controller out, and hooked it up, changing slightly, running +3.3V & GND externally. (Using the THINGS.Com nunchuck plug, external from the Arduino.)  and tried the original code someone posted here..  confirmed, it's the same address as the actual nunchuck controller (52), but when I tried various ways of talking to it to send data, nothing came back...    just sat there..  So, apparently, it's something the master controller of the Wii sends, that it understands..  Also, internally, this controller is nothing but switches under the joystick, 8 external switches to the right, but no ideas how the turbo and macro control keys work..  I'll check that new URL someone just posted..  just downloaded the PDF.. So, hopefully, I'll learn something from it.  Thanks.


Update: the URL was for another of Tod Kurt's devices, but I couldn't make heads or tails of it..

I understand, the sketch he wrote long ago for the Nunchuck looks for data from memory address 0x40 (decimal 64) of device 0x34 ( decimal 52), But, how do I (a) figure what memory address is this thing using, if not 0x40? and (b) how many bytes will it send?
6  Using Arduino / Networking, Protocols, and Devices / Re: Serial Commmunication on: October 06, 2013, 09:34:38 pm
The Include doesn't.. It threw me too, when I tried my 1st attempt at making a remote XBEE talk to a second one, plugged into a Duemilinova running the soft-serial.. But, you'll notice, when you do the "port1.begin(9600)" & port1.read & port1.write, the functions will.. 

Check the File/Examples/SoftwareSerial  TwoPortReceive example, and scroll down to the 55th to 84th lines, You'll see how it changes color only on the function.  It also shows in the SoftwareSerialExample sample between lines 44th to 53rd lines.

At least these work under 1.0.5, not sure of older (I still keep 0.23 for the LOL-Shield), or the newer betas.
7  Using Arduino / Motors, Mechanics, and Power / Re: 12v relay advice on: September 09, 2013, 02:57:37 pm
It may be overkill, but even a simple Darlington will work fine..  I had a 12V counter solenoid I pulled from an old video game, that I wanted to reset back to 0..  Once I opened it, it was too close together to try rolling the wheels back, and trying to do it with the 1's wheel, would've broken the pawl.  So.. Forward, was the direction to go..  I wired-up a LN2003 open-collector Darlington array chip, using just one input & one output, proceeded to wire the solenoid as if it were a single coil on a stepper motor, (signal from the Arduino to pin 1, GND pin from the solenoid to pin 16, Arduino, power, and 12V GND to pin 8, +12V to pin 9, and the positive wire from the solenoid.) Then, wrote a small program on the arduino to to wait 3 seconds, then starts to toggle the signal pin (just for haha's, Pin smiley-cool on & off a number of times at approx 40 mS between pulses.

result, when I connected the solenoid, and powered-up the arduino, it would wait 3 seconds, then start chattering away, pulsing the solenoid on for 40mS, then off again for the next 40mS. then, just leave it to buzz away.. after a couple of hours, went back to check on it, and it was at 999999.. (starting at only 006420).. Exactly as planned. the last step, pulse it over to 000000 by connecting the solenoid to the +12V & GND outside the circuit.

Either two simple transistors, or a darlington might be the answer.  Here's a simple circuit link:


the ULN2003 would be overkill, unless you had 7 relays going.

Stephen Griswold
8  Using Arduino / Motors, Mechanics, and Power / Re: Arduino UNO Battery connection on: June 25, 2013, 04:34:10 pm
I sacrificed 2 long wires from my set of wire jumpers, one red, one black, and connected the to the same barrel connector (actually radioshack #274-1569), so I could plug more than one arduino into a breadboard which had the power on 2 common rails. (+12V from a converted ATX supply down to 9V via a 1amp LM7809 regulator I scavenged from an old sound card.)  As mentioned, Positive (+) to the center connector, Negative (-) to the outer shell.
you can back-feed to the connector, BUT.... beware of short-circuits! simply plug the +9V supply into the VCC pin on the power rail on the Arduino (note +5, GND, GND, VCC,  to the left of analog 0)  A short, could cause the trace on the board's underside to burn through.. Likewise, NEVER draw VCC level power from this pin, in excess of 1-Amp, for the same reason. (had fun scraping paint off the trace, and bridging with a piece of thin wire)


9  Using Arduino / Networking, Protocols, and Devices / Ethernet Shield, Power, Am I playing with fire? on: May 15, 2013, 03:56:56 pm
I've been powering my Arduino projects, lately, with a slightly modified ATX power supply..  Now, I've noticed the I can run +5V projects off the +5V from the supply, without needing to wire anything to the Vin or the coaxial connector..  I can't find the schematic for the Ethernet/SD shield (the R3 PDF here doesn't show any traces, just a almost Xray view of the board). but is the Ethernet chip powered with 3.3V? Would I be messing with fire (and a possibly fried chip) if I ran a wire from the 3.3V supply post, to the 3.3V pin on the shield? (in other words, putting power to both the 5V & 3.3V pins).. Reason why I'm asking, as many have found, the board gets super hot at the regulator, and I want to supplement the power with the supply, so it won't be as overloaded.
10  Using Arduino / Storage / Re: ATMEL 93c46 on: May 06, 2013, 01:18:03 pm
I can't remember where I obtained it from, but there is a project out on the net, using the MEGA-2560, using higher digital pins instead of analog pins like everyone else has..     I'm going to try mixing the two, feeding the code from here , and hopefully, it'll work with the MEGA.
I've been pulling a LOT of 93C46's from various old network cards.. the problem with the project I found, it is writing immediately to the chip, which I don't want it to do.. I want to read the data contained on the EEPROM..
11  Using Arduino / General Electronics / Re: My hacked ATX PSU on: April 19, 2013, 07:01:39 pm
I'm another one of those hackers who modified an old ATX supply for using the Arduino, and other circuits..  I totally agree on adding fuses! One little mistake I made, was I had the 9V switched pack plugged into one Duemilinova.. I had a pin plugged into the GND, and the Vin sockets on the boards, and while moving the breadboard a little, a pin slipped from the BB side, and bridged the two.. Next thing I heard, was a small POP! followed by a wisp of smoke..  OH-SH&&&!!!! Don't tell me I fried the chip?!?!?  No.. it cooked the trace going from the coaxial connector, to the Vin pin.. A little careful solder bridge and it was back to working.. BUT.... not on here, but another instructable, someone suggested back-feeding power from an ATX supply through the Vin pin..  Now, this is how I feed my arduino projects.. I use a Mini-Molex power connector from an old, dead 3.5" floppy drive, with the pins straightened, plugged into the breadboard..    (saves having to keep plugging the coaxial connector.)  so, you've got one of two fuses... you can replace the one on the supply voltage wire, OR... you can repair this little thin trace on the board..  Your Choice!!


Yes, the Arduino's Vin can handle 12V, though I advise against running the Ethernet/MicroSD shield, as this seems to create a LOT of heat from the 5V regulator.  (It's a wonder it hasn't started smoking itself!)   Someone posted elsewhere how to re-regulate the voltages through adjusting the values to one of the switching chips (TL494, though others use other chips.) .. kind of like wiring-up a LM317 variable.. Still it depends on the supply..  I see so many of the designs with a 10-Ohm, 10Watt sandblock to maintain the supply's activity, across the +5V, but honestly, I have an Antec which came with a 33-ohm, 5W carbon-film across the +5, INSIDE the case, and it runs fine! (even for a 3000W, it keeps cool as a cucumber! I modified a 200-Watt Dell Dimension supply, I wired a 33-ohm, 5W sandblock inside the case, sacrificing 1 +5 & GND wire, and it runs fine as well.)    I haven't gotten adventurous enough to wire-up a Micro-B USB to the Raspberry, but I imagine it'll be more than enough to keep it going. (Just can't find chips that use 3.3V, been too much of a TTL type..)

The key, is when modifying these supplies, AVOID the big cans inside!  You can't miss them.. they're directly after the bridge rectifier, coming from the 115V/220V input wires, and are usually rated 200uF to 400uF, at 200 to 300WV.. read these are LETHAL!!!  these have the potential of the same capacitors that run Xenon Flashes on a camera.. ANY voltage that high, is like getting hit by a micro defibrulator.. (See Hospital shows.. CLEAR!!! *THUNK!*) and it WILL hurt, possibly even stop your heart.

12  Using Arduino / Motors, Mechanics, and Power / Re: Stepper Motor Juddery on: February 15, 2013, 07:35:50 pm
Sounds like  what I'm running into, using a TI ULN2001P (pin for pin, it's identical to the ULN2003, but it seems to be lower voltages. (5V)..)

I pulled the 2001's from a old printer main board.. can't remember if the steppers were 7V, 5V, or 3V..
13  Using Arduino / Motors, Mechanics, and Power / Re: Powering off a 12VDC outlet on: May 07, 2012, 12:21:56 pm
There's no reason why you cannot power the arduino directly (through the coaxial power plug, naturally) from +12V.. the regulator drops the voltage down to +5V, and likewise the +3.3V regulator is powered off the +5V.. I might be wrong, but I think the +5V regulator should be able to handle up to +20V input  (can't find the Vin-Max listing from the MC33269D-5.0 datasheet.).  as long as you're not powering devices off the Vin pin of the board, you're okay. (I've done it, feeding a 7805 regulator for three servos, but the current draw was negligible.)    The 3.3V regulator is fed from both the +5V output of the regulator, and the USB +5V pin..BUT... you cannot power that much off the +5V from the USB port, without taxing the device. (and, possibly blowing the fuse on whatever is powering the USB)

I've been able to power a UNO, a Wiz-net shield, and a LG Wifi router off a single +12V gel cell, as well the 7805 regulator to the +V on 3x Futaba 3004's, for a robot design, without problems.  As long as the Relay shield is running the relays off some form of Darlington or transistor to switch the relay coils on/off, you should be fine. Directly driving the relays coils, could prove fatal to the Arduino.  Also, note the voltage of the relay coils, as not to burn them out either. (sniff-sniff.. Do I smell burning plastic?  OH-NO!!!)

Stephen (gelfling6)
14  Using Arduino / Networking, Protocols, and Devices / Re: Hello? Who's out there? I2C address unknown, how to obtain it? on: March 05, 2012, 07:37:51 pm
Retrolefty, Thanks!  I'll give the sketch a try.

RE:Nick G:, using the demo sketch someone made for the nunchuck, and expanding it to read more than just the accelerometer, (also get the joystick X & Y, as well as buttons C & Z), as I mentioned in the original post, it responds back with all 7 values = 255.. (and none chance with any of the buttons pressed.)

This is a link to the device,  http://www.airaccent.com/arcade-fighter-joystick-controller-for-nintendo-wii-white-p-35437.html
Although, I bought mine from a local Ocean State Job-Lot ("Inventory close-out" store for those unfamiliar with the place.)

I'm not using the turbo or macro functions (yet, once I am sure I can talk to it, maybe.....)  but the arduino (either a UNO or a Duemilinova, programmer 0.23, as it seems even more than just Ethernet or charlieplexing libraries are changed under 1.0  smiley-zipper) reports back 255, 255, 255, 255, 255, 255, 255.....

wanting to use this in a remote control to another arduino, on a robot..

15  Using Arduino / Networking, Protocols, and Devices / Hello? Who's out there? I2C address unknown, how to obtain it? on: March 04, 2012, 05:46:39 pm
I just picked-up a simple joystick pad which is supposed to plug onto the Nintendo Wii remote, in place of the nunchuck.. It had a joystick, which appears to only have buttons (on/off only, no analog) and 6 buttons.   using the nunchuck info, the values that come back are all 255, but none change when I press any of the buttons. (this is polling for JoyX, JoyY, AccelX, AccelY, AccelZ, Button C & Button Z, all 7 values remain 255)

The thing I'm wondering, is the controller using the same I2C address as the nunchuck? or some other device address, and is there a way to send a 'Who's Out There?" request from the arduino?  I can't seem to find an answer for this, and several references to needing an occilloscope, but no reference on how to connect it.
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