Why not just plug the arduino USB cable into the beagleboard? Usb to serial, done for you. Then just use whatever program you please to access the serial port.

That's exactly what you need to do. Just beware that the backlight will fry if you give it more than 3.3v, and that if you connect both backlights all the time, they will be on and drawing power even if they are not being used.

[constants]

Why do you keep saying that? Its really quite unlikely that the Arduino headers would ever redefine HIGH as 255. Despite the reason that you mentioned in your last post, it wouldn't happen for a host of reasons. First, it would break existing code, and second, even if there was an integrated D/A, so digitalwrite dealt with PWM, it would be incredibly inefficient to always use a 100% PWM for a logic high, because you would waste a timer. Not to mention that there aren't enough timers for pwm on every pin. Furthermore, 1 is the universally excepted logic high (think of boolean, true/false) not 255. So you can safely assume that the constants HIGH and LOW wont be redefined until bits are replaced with qubits.

The issue is that, according to your picture, your push button is wired to complete a circuit between arduino 5v and arduino GND, which will make the arduino stop functioning, and the computer will see it as disconnected.

I agree, and focalist said it really well. The great thing about arduino is the low barrier to entry (in terms of knowledge and price) and this forum makes it possible.

However, on the subject of manners, I think that someone showing up on the forum without doing any research whatsoever, and has literally turned to the forum before google, or any of a host of easily accessible beginner resources, and asks for their project to be done for them, is just as rude as a condescending response.

When I first got interested in electronics, I did a lot of research and reading of tutorials and books, and it payed off, and I now do a lot of engineering projects outside the scope and scale of arduino, and am learning new stuff all the time, which is a lot more fun than asking a veteran forum member to write your code and send you a schematic.
 
I do think, for those too lazy, or who haven't had the thought to check out any of the many resources, a few sticky threads would be a good idea.

You should use the USB over ip hub with a cheap n router out in the woods. Put Linux on the router and you may be able to power the radios on/off. Also , if it has GPIOs you could use those for the shutter. Otherwise, connect an arduino + Ethernet shield to the router for shutter control.

Then connect your eos software - running computer to that network, and ta da!

[know]

and unless you know HIGH==1 and LOW==0 it is not the same as writing
digitalWrite(4, ((var & B00010000) ? 1 : 0));

as digitalWrite might be programmed to turn on the output when it gets a parameter 5, or 255 or something else.

From wiring.h

Code:

#define HIGH 0x1
#define LOW  0x0

It doesnt get any more constant than that.

Keep in mind that you cannot measure resistance by connecting the 5v-carrying nichrome wire straight to the arduino ADC. You need to pair the wire with another resistor to create a voltage divider, and then measure that voltage.

Yep TQFP soldering isnt too difficult. I did my first the other day! Before doing so, I got a whole host of tips here: http://arduino.cc/forum/index.php/topic,70491.msg523366.html

Desolder the old chip and stick in a new one. Its a $2 fix to a $150 board.

Why not just use an EyeFi card?

Yes you are correct about bitread.

Bitread reads the bit at that position in a byte. Is that not what you want to do?

Why not just use bitread()?
i.e.:

Code:

int var = 13;
digitalWrite(4, (bitread(var,4));
digitalWrite(5, (bitread(var,3));
digitalWrite(6, (bitread(var,2));
digitalWrite(7, (bitread(var,1));
digitalWrite(8, (bitread(var,0));

Just use an arduino with a USB host shield, and follow a tutorial like this. http://marioboehmer.blogspot.com/2011/05/android-adk-with-standard-arduino-uno.html

The easiest thing to do would be to use a transistor not gate.-an arduino is way overkill. Essentially, you want to use this schematic. http://www.kpsec.freeuk.com/trancirc.htm#inverter . But you may need to add a switching transistor to the output to satisfy the load requirements of the door strike.