mega2560 bootloader low_fuses=0xFF
mega2560 bootloader high_fuses=0xD8
mega2560 bootloader extended_fuses=0xFD
mega2560 bootloader unlock_bits=0x3F
mega2560 bootloader lock_bits=0x0F

Copied from the boards.txt file in Arduino IDE 1.0.1

Open Drain - I tend to use 2K, 8.7K(Because I have about 10,000 on 2 reels) or 10K - I start with the 8.7 and change if unstable.

Ive used 9600 to 115200 with no pullups!

Hi Michael, Welcome to the wonderfull world of Arduino. There are a few things to check :

Is the power led on?
Have you performed the loopback test? If not, I recommend you do.
If it is, can you check for the com ports by unplugging the arduino, then plugging it back in, taking note of what port (if any) appears.
When you press upload, wait for the Binäre Sketchgröße: to show, quickly tap reset. (it may help)
Do you see any other LEDs flash or flicker when you try to upload?

Failing this, you MAY have to arrange for a replacment. (but with a few checks we may be able to narrow down the fault)

The attinys don't tend to have/suppot UART so I think it may not be possible.

Check the fuses - The settings are in the boards.txt file. Mainly the Lock bit (0f locked - 3f ULOCKED)

Hi - just a few things :
Jumper Rx to Tx and try the loopback test
Try a different USB lead.
Connect direct to the PC (If you use a hub, it will not always work.)
Uninstall the driver / Reinstall it again,

I'm putting up 2 of these to swap. Leave an offer here or PM me, I'm not after anything specific, does not even have to be arduino related, But preferred.

I've Built & Tested the shields with :

atmega 328
atmega 168
atmega 8
(All set to internal clock & Oscillator)
tiny 13,45,85 all on internal Osc.

I'll post to world wide (With a few restrictions).

I agree, But I tend to hold the chip in place, rather than insert the chip fully, so wear is minimal. Also ZIF sockets are quite expensive compared to the standard DIP sockets.

Hi - After browsing through this forum, and others, I came to the conclusion that LOTS of people have issues uploading the bootloader / programs to there blank atmega/attiny chips. So I have made the following 2 boards :

Arduino as ISP Mini board, Fits onto the ICSP header (With a lead going to pin 10 for reset).
and
Arduino as ISP Shield, Complete with the Heartbeat, Error and Working LEDs.

Just upload the ArduinoISP sketch, fit the Mini or Shield, then disable the reset on you Arduino (The shield has a jumper to do this)
pop you chip onto the relevant socket, Choose the correct chip from the tools menu, Select Arduino as ISP in the tools menu.
Then upload the bootloader or (if using the up to date IDE) upload the program with programmer.

See the attached images.

They are for sale if any-one wants one (or both).

Hi - Yes & No - You can use PIN1 as either RESET or I/O but not both, this is set with the fuses. Once the pin is set as I/O it can only be reset using HVP (High Voltage Programming) Hope this help clear things up.

Hi - I program QFP-32s here, never thought there would be a demand for bootloaded QFP 328's. I think i've got 2 left (I'll check the workshop tomorrow) and a few 8s as well, I'm going to order a few more tomorrow. Any-one who needs them, or wants me to bootload them just PM me.

((reading / 1024) * 5);

reading is 0 ->1024
therefor reading/1024 will be 1 or less (Probably rounded to 1) * 5 = 5,
what value range are you trying to get?

Found the picture - there is no pull up on reset - this may be the issue? - the rest looks OK

No Picture -

Confirm the following conections :

ISP HEADER      2560

1   MISO   (D12)        PIN22
2   5V              PIN11,31,61,90 & 100
3   SCK(D13)           PIN20
4   MOSI   (D11)        PIN21
5   RESET(D10)   30(WITH 10K PULLUP TO 5V)
6   GND              PIN11,32,62,91 & 99

I don't have a 2560 at hand, so cant set up a test circuit just now. But I just tested programming a 328 with my arduino,
using a wire jumper from reset to 5V (Only while programming) - maybe try that if the wiring looks good.