Linky to the topic in old forum

http://www.arduino.cc/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1266413218/all

If there is a better place to post this let me know!

Anyway, I am looking for the same info. However to better scope it, the objective is to program PIC18FChip. Google search lead to this article.

http://www.obddiag.net/picprog.html

It use a PIC to diy programmer compatible with PICKit 2 programmer. At least the hardware is there and the voltage (as discussed in the old topic) should be USB 5V.

That left firmware to be solved. Since the board is using  PIC18F as the MCU. The athor did write eloquently

"Building PICKit 2 clone is facing a chicken-egg problem as another programmer is required to program the firmware into the PIC18F2550"

So if the programmer is built using Arduino, it will no longer be chicken and egg problem. Which left the Arduino firmware part.

Q1 - So here is hopping for more information. For instance, if someone already do this. If not where to get details about protocol or steps to program PIC. Targeting specifically the PIC18F.

Q2 - It is impressive that Arduino can program another Arduino chip boot loader. As per this article
http://arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/ArduinoISP . But it is mentioned there that Uno can not do it. I don't know what this impact the idea of programming PIC. So appreciate if someone can lay down some information here.

Thanks & Regards!

The hilarious statement was actually made by a company (not official distributor) selling Arduino clone. Perhaps taking advantage of the fact that Duemilanove is no longer manufactured.

It is correct that the official Duemilanove is no longer manufactured. But official supplier can still get it, at a tad cheaper price than Uno. Perhaps until the stock dries up... some day

Despite announcement that ATMega328 supply constraint is solved and order for March to be fulfilled 7 to 8 days. The fact is it is not! Here is the proof.

1. Place an order on 17th March.  Paid on the same day.
2. Not shipped until 25th, I got nervous and sent an email.
3. No reply until 29th and the reply said it will be shipped end of the week. And that means 15 days instead of 7 to 8 days. If it ship as per the email.

My problem is I depend on it to be shipped 7 to 8 days. Since it does not shipped 7 to 8 days, I will not receive it in time since I am going to be out of town for several month. I can tolerate few days delay but this is whole week delay. Unjustifiable.

The cold shoulder, stonewalling and only answering email after it is too late to do any corrective action is also not a good sign.

But, now here is the important part.

It used to be that Duemilanove shipment was delayed too. I was not a distributor at that time. But got feedback from some of em that the wait is months. What kind of business can with stand that kind of delay?

IMHO that is the start Duemilanove clone becoming serious contender. The demand is there but no supply. The clone do the same work, sometime even have the same name . The best and most hilarious statement I read  was that "Duemilanove manufacturing has been moved to China". So instead of Italian flag, we see made in China in the place holder.

I hope this is not going to happen to Uno.

I hope the head honcho up there will pay attention to this issue. And give accurate information. So that we all can at least face whatever crisis gracefully. Stand together instead of just watching "the least important" part of the supply chain stumble and start a domino effect. Just kidding.

Best Regards,
Haris

*PST* I really have no idea where to voice my concern. Looking at all the Forum, Bar Sport is as good as any. If anyone feel that this is better discussed in private, please send a private message! If there is no reply, either the Mafia got me or that out of town for months trip already happen!

Hello & Good Day,

Coming from playground page for LCD Display,http://arduino.cc/en/Reference/LiquidCrystal?from=Tutorial.LCDLibrary.

Cannot find schematic or at least something that say connect this to this pin in Arduino Uno. Appreciate some help! Attached is data sheet for this particular display.

The second matter is regarding playground page it self. Should the playground page be standardized to have schematic with respect to Arduino mcu board. At least to Uno, which is the flagship product.

TIA

Hello from homebrew-tech,

Since we are just recently listed as distributor for Malaysia. Would like to request if a new sub forum is created for the Malaysian language user. So that community in Malaysia can be better supported.

It is a language that also use the same character set as English. So there really is no other special requierement beside just creating the sub forum.

Appreciate it and on my scout honor! will actively monitor it!

Cheers!
Haris Hashim

Just want to add my thought here.

1. The Arduinoscope Usage wiki page have 2 link for libraries and arduino sketch.

The libraries need to be unzipped to arduinoscope folder in the usual place where to put Processing library. In Windows this is [My Documents]\Processing\libraries.

2. The so called Arduino patch is actually a sketch to be uploaded to Arduino. The link in Usage wiki page is actually broken due to spelling error. I got scared looking at arduino-arduinoscope.pde file name. So rename it to arduinoscope.pde. Copy this file to a folder that must be the same name as the sketch name (without extension). The folder location is in the usual Arduino sketch folder location. In windows this is [My Documents]\Arduino\sketch.

3. IMHO SimpleSerialArduinoscope use the first available comport (if it is available at all!). Due to the source code that take item 0 in list of com port.

Code:

port = new Serial(this, Serial.list()[0], 115200);

This means that if Arduino board in com port 9 while there are other preceeding com port number. This can be a problem.

Have not test this. Just bouncing some opinion.

Blog about starting up with Arduinoscope Link ->
http://www.homebrew-tech.com/arduino/brewing-arduino-announcement/usingarduinoasoscilloscope-arduinoscope

Warning this is a very long and boring writeup probably with lots of wrong info that is going to be clean up as it being reviewed.

Cheers and have a nice weekend!

I know this is old topic. But having some problem with library that use PORTX registers. So shield that use the library work on Duemilanove and Uno but does not work with Arduino Mega2560 board.

The Shield make use of pin (digital I/O) 2,3,4,5,6 & 7.

I have applied above mapping (change code in the library) which still does not work.

One simple question. Is the port register mapping for ATMega1280 applies to ATMega2560? If not then it explain why still does not works!

TIA

PART 2



Link to the post in my website --> http://www.homebrew-tech.com/arduino/brewing-arduino-announcement/basictutorialbybeginnermatrixledpart2

Hello guys,

I am starting a series of picture tutorial that start from down up. Meaning very simple stuff and it will get little bit harder as things progress.

It start with interfacing to 4 LEDS in 7 x 5 matrix LED and I hope it will get to something like this playground article http://www.arduino.cc/playground/Main/DirectDriveLEDMatrix.

Will just paste the picture here so no need to visit my website just to give feedback in this forum.

Thanks in advance!

------------------------------



For updated tutorial, the page is here --> http://www.homebrew-tech.com/arduino/brewing-arduino-announcement/basictutorialbybeginner-matrixledpart1

Ummm .... but XBee is not Bluetooth. Just in case the TS only need Bluetooth for some obscure reason. (And that obscure reason can be communicating with Phone with Bluetooth support).

But hell yeah, from the way the problem is presented, XBee will be the best solution. An XBee is also better in term of power consumption and power saving feature.

Btw from my recent playing with Arduino BT. I don't see any BT PAN profile listed as one of the service. My first impresion (which can be wrong) is that Arduino BT only provide the Serial Port service.

Just Saying, whatever it worth.
 

Just to pitch in that I have same problem but with Arduino BT (Bluetooth virtual serial port instead of USB serial port).

It start as my question on how to power up the board. The discussion is here
   http://www.arduino.cc/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1288423067/0#12

Let me paste the error message

Binary sketch size: 1010 bytes (of a 28672 byte maximum)
D:\App\arduino-0021\hardware/tools/avr/bin/avrdude -CD:\App\arduino-0021\hardware/tools/avr/etc/avrdude.conf -v -v -v -v -patmega328p -cstk500v1 -P\\.\COM3 -b19200 -D -Uflash:w:C:\Users\MyName\AppData\Local\Temp\build7010162337971221665.tmp\BTBlink.cpp.hex:i

avrdude: Version 5.4-arduino, compiled on Oct 11 2007 at 19:12:32
         Copyright (c) 2000-2005 Brian Dean, http://www.bdmicro.com/

         System wide configuration file is "D:\App\arduino-0021\hardware/tools/avr/etc/avrdude.conf"

         Using Port            : \\.\COM3
         Using Programmer      : stk500v1
         Overriding Baud Rate  : 19200
avrdude: ser_open(): setting dtr
avrdude: Send: 0 [30]   [20]
avrdude: Send: 0 [30]   [20]
avrdude: Send: 0 [30]   [20]
avrdude: Recv:
avrdude: stk500_getsync(): not in sync: resp=0x00
avrdude: Send: Q [51]   [20]
avrdude: Recv:
avrdude: stk500_disable(): protocol error, expect=0x14, resp=0x51

avrdude done.  Thank you.

The weird thing is that baud rate is 19200 even though set upload speed to 115200 or 9600 by setting serial.download_rate in preferences.txt.

Anyway, pardon me if this looks like hijacking the thread. I just want to point out that this is similar problem. Please ignore if the info provided is not relevant.

Searching on the internet seems like lots of people is suffering from this problem more so when the board is Arduino BT.

Forget to add : Using Arduino-0021 on Win7 64 bit. Arduino BT is powered using 4 AA batteries 1.2V each.

Just to add my thought. And to quote from your linked website:

that the trasmitter needs to be sending data CONSTANTLY or else the receiver will be left hanging and will start reading random junk floating in RF space -- by sending data all the time, just imagine that you're overpowering all the junk. So you'll probably need to decide on a byte of information that actually means "nothing" or "no data now" or "off"

I think this is like old modem ... you need to always send data otherwise it will sleep or disconnect. Not the best analogy, but that is the first thing come to my mind.

So IMHO, you might need to catch this "98" and read useful data. Maybe fixed length or you can send the data length after 98. So some kind of a protocol header.

Hmm... but from your initial post. It does sound like the receiver don't receive any signal at all. Is this the case. On the other hand if you keep receiving 98 on your receiver. This should be good news, i.e. your receiver is working!

I am not expert in RF. I am curious too about how the frequency is set. Hope that bumping this thread will attract more people with RF experience!

8-)

[==1==]

To continue this monologue. (Perhaps this is the bane of living on the other side of the world, I am practically troubleshooting by myself while other people is partying, sleeping or having breakfast and starting their day). And finish with a good conclusion. Because finally after 1 day plus (or 22 days depending on how to look at it!) manage to get it working.

So let's have all the glory (and frustration) in point form.

==1== This thread begin as I ask the question of how to power Arduino BT. The original idea is to use a wall wart with rated output of 3.6V under load. However upon checking the voltage using multimeter, found that it is 6.2V instead. PaulS later point out that if connected to Arduino board with proper load. The operating voltage should be 3.6V.

==2== Decide not to take the risk (in other words chicken out). So Instead of using the wall wart, use 2AA batteries. Multimeter show around 2.8V to 3.2V. Unfortunately I use crappy battery. The fact is that even though it power up, can't program the board. Failure to program is not because of the battery or the low charge hold by the batteries. But, since the battery run out very so often it give wrong perception about the problem. Beside this, the troubleshooting process is interupted by changing batteries, pairing the device again and restart troubleshooting. This is improved by using 4x AA batteries with each 1.2V and 2100mAH. In total I get 4.8V to just bellow 5.5V due to diode voltage drop. It is still a mystery to me why 4 x 1.2V give more than 5V.

WARNING : Do not use 4 x 1.5V in series. This will result to 6V which exceed Arduino BT max voltage at 5.5V

==3== This is the most important point. The reason fail to program Arduino BT. My theory is that the Bluetooth chip (Blue Giga) is hogging Arduino serial communication. Which also use to program the onboard ATMEGA328 chip. This theory is formed by reading bellow thread

http://www.arduino.cc/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1230381702/all

Several quote

Reply1 - Adilson Akashi
I don´t know if this problem is the same, but I read somewhere in this forum about a sketch that sends constantly messages from arduino´s serial port, and makes it uncommunicable to receive new sketches.
Is the actual sketch a loop of this kind?

Reply11 -pwillard
That's why there is supposed to be a short delay after pressing reset... no?  That delay allows you to UPLOAD a new sketch with the bootloader.  If you wait too long... you miss the window and you will have a serial conflict as seen.

If you have a different bootloader that has the delay removed... oh well.

Reply13 - halley
Connect the board to the computer.  Ensure you've selected the right serial port in the IDE.  Hit the Reset button on the board.  Hit the Upload Sketch button on the IDE before two seconds has elapsed.

When you hit the reset button, the board starts running the bootloader program instead of your program.  The bootloader program watches the serial connection for two seconds, and if there's nothing that looks like a valid program-upload process being attempted, it will start running your program.

In essence pressing the reset button before immediately click the upload button solved the failure to program issue. There is 5 second window before the Blue Giga chip start to hog the serial com. At least this is what I think!

==4== But that is not it. There is a plot twist in this story. After successfully uploading Blink sample, still there is no bloody blinking LED. As noted in my earlier post. Even though the hardware page described Arduino BT as having built in LED. It miss that one LED connected to Digital I/O pin 13. Running the Blink sample on Uno or Duemilanove will result to immediate and visible result. But this does not apply to Arduino BT. Need to connect LED to pin 13 to see the result on Arduino BT. So after doing the necessary, finally there is blinky!

It is good to ponder. Why this issue is not highlighted in the Arduino BT hardware page? So many forum post where people are describing this same issue with Arduino BT and asking for help.

Best Regards & Happy Weekends

UPDATE: After lots of dead batteries. Decide to change to rechargeable 1.2v batteries with 4 battery instead of 2. This time around the voltage measured on battery terminal  should be 4.8v. But I am seeing 5.4 volt just after charge. Diode voltage drop bring this value to around 4.9v.

Much better in term of Arduino BT not disconnected at the same time when low battery LED is on. But again, it shows same error  :'( . From avrdude command prompt

avrdude: Version 5.4-arduino, compiled on Oct 11 2007 at 19:12:32
         Copyright (c) 2000-2005 Brian Dean, http://www.bdmicro.com/

         System wide configuration file is "D:\app\arduino-0021\hardware\tools\a
vr\etc\avrdude.conf"

         Using Port            : COM3
         Using Programmer      : stk500v1
         Overriding Baud Rate  : 9600
avrdude: ser_open(): setting dtr
avrdude: Send: 0 [30]   [20]
avrdude: Send: 0 [30]   [20]
avrdude: Send: 0 [30]   [20]
avrdude: Recv:
avrdude: stk500_getsync(): not in sync: resp=0x00
avrdude: Send: Q [51]   [20]
avrdude: Recv:
avrdude: stk500_disable(): protocol error, expect=0x14, resp=0x51

avrdude done.  Thank you.

avrdude does not run at all before the battery change. So I take this as an improvement power wise. But getting same error with avrdude say something else.

Discovered several more forum post with same problem

http://forums.adafruit.com/viewtopic.php?f=25&t=6511
http://www.arduino.cc/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1204809767
http://www.arduino.cc/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1290070638

Begin thinking about the built in LED is not connected to digital I/0 pin 13. Because there is 1 LED that is constantly on which is the power LED. And there is another LED that is labelled as BATT LOW that is only on when battery is about to die.

I am assuming that the battery low LED is the LED  that blinks when Arduino board start or during programming of the board. But so far have not seen that happen.

Just bouncing back some idea.

A big hmmm ... after going through 2 set of AA batteries (now on the battery 5th and 6th).

I think the board powered up correctly. But having problem with uploading program. I don't see the normal LED blinking when programming. and then got the same error as this guy.

http://www.arduino.cc/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1189248555

Binary sketch size: 1010 bytes (of a 28672 byte maximum)
avrdude: stk500_getsync(): not in sync: resp=0x00
avrdude: stk500_disable(): protocol error, expect=0x14, resp=0x51

Tried the guy solution but my windows 7 64 bit using cmd shell with administrator priviledge says cannot find COM18.

The com port is correct because I have check it multiple time. My suspicion is low power and communication error. But this is just assumption because really have no idea what is resp 0x14 and 0x51.

I know one other person who is having the same problem. Not sure the guy is using battery of power from the wall.

I am glad that I use battery because otherwise will think that fried the board etc. But since I'm not, and take precaution with diode to rule out reverse polarity, higher probability that the board is not fried. But some other problem.

At this point either I take 5v from another arduino board or use a wall wart. So my question to PaulS is still in need of answer (3 post up).

Best Regards!