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Using Arduino / LEDs and Multiplexing / Re: Cheap addressable RGB strip - how to control?
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on: October 03, 2012, 12:27:48 pm
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If anyone is seriously interested, I can look for the documents, I might still have them on another PC.
If you can find them, it'd be great to have the info on line as a matter of record. It's a bit of an arse that I bought 25m of the damn stuff  . S'pose we'll find a use for 'em somewhere with the stock controller. Either that or soldering practice. In the meantime, these bad boys seem to be the best current option. Cheers, Robert.
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Using Arduino / LEDs and Multiplexing / Re: Cheap addressable RGB strip - how to control?
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on: August 12, 2012, 05:46:35 pm
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It's a little tricky, my friends with the logic analysers and oscilloscopes are in Amsterdam and I'm now in Las Vegas (and not returning to Amsterdam until at least next year.) I'll check out SYN Shop (the Vegas hackerspace) and see if anyone there can help.
The first dump is the whole output; the second is a subset but it repeats like that the whole way. I know it would help if I could get video of the patterns synced to the logic analyser dumps and I'll try for that.
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Using Arduino / LEDs and Multiplexing / Re: Cheap addressable RGB strip - how to control?
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on: August 09, 2012, 05:13:29 pm
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There are about 100 patterns, according to the prebuilt controller. Capturing the waveforms and playing them back is something we were going to try, but I had to leave town before Ian (from Dangerous Prototypes) came back with his Bus Pirate :-).
Building a completely custom controller and running custom patterns on these LEDs is kinda the point, if I can't do that I might as well use the built-in controller.
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Using Arduino / LEDs and Multiplexing / Re: Cheap addressable RGB strip - how to control?
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on: August 09, 2012, 01:26:14 pm
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With the help of some friends from the Amsterdam Hackerspace and the Meta group, I've hooked the controller for these strips up to a logic analyser and got some dumps. Bad news: it still doesn't make sense. Firstly, here are what a couple of the patterns look like looked like on a scope:   In both, the top is the clock line and the bottom is the data line. According to people there who know something about I2C this is not what an I2C clock signal ought to look like. More interesting, here are a couple of dumps from the http://www.saleae.com/ a friend bought. Screen caps follow, but you can download the software from that link and play with the attached dumps yourself without owning the hardware.   It still doesn't make sense. For some of the patterns, after an initial burst of enthusiasm the controller seems to be sending nothing, despite the LEDs happily continuing their pattern. Maybe all the controller is doing is selecting one of a hundred or so patterns and telling the D7001 which one to display. Links to the data files for the Salae: http://dl.dropbox.com/u/1432370/S301/R700-A%20LedController%20mode%2017.logicdata, http://dl.dropbox.com/u/1432370/S301/R700-A%20LedController%20mode%2018.logicdataDoes any of the above help anyone? Doesn't look like my original project is going to come off now  .
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Using Arduino / LEDs and Multiplexing / Re: Cheap addressable RGB strip - how to control?
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on: May 06, 2012, 03:52:28 am
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Very keen to hear an update on this when you've got something to share, Daniel :-). Just about to order some of these strips myself, for this year's project.
Any first-hand info on the voltage for these strips, by the way? Is it 5V everywhere, or 5V signalling and 12V to power the LEDs like the LPD6803 strips I used last time?
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Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: Arduino/clone with Bluetooth and SD card reader?
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on: September 13, 2011, 11:59:17 pm
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Thinking about it some more, my project requires pushing a 24-bit 16x40 pixel display over the air at 60Hz, which is a data rate of 115200 bytes/sec = 900kbps, which from my reading seems to be well in excess of what Bluetooth can deliver. So that means 802.11b/g wifi, for which under 1Mbps should be a walk in the park. Therefore, the combination of the Arduino Pro and WiFly shield being fed by off-board storage seems to be a more practical solution. I'm pushing the RAM on the ATmega328 hard though, I might even have to look at an ATmega2560-based board. Cheers, Robert.
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