Thank you! Colleagues!

I had experience with both Parallel Programmer and A Serial programmer out of the two make the Serial programmer the LINK > http://diy4fun.blogspot.com/2009/01/simple-serial-programmer-for-avr.html ,Although i had some different circuit but this will work as fine, WHY SERIAL OVER PARALLEL?, The thing is the LCP1 port is taken as a Printer port by the system, so sometimes it's harder to amend that ,sometimes you have made all the right settings in preferences.txt, boards.txt and in windows but it wont just work's , so further use the PONYPROG and that's it!, will work Fine, i was able to do read and write (And that's all! mainly).(although in one of my experiment i burned my ATmega168 but yes after uploading it.).

So with my experience use the SERIAL + PONYPROG Really easiest and most cost effective method.

and ALPARENT is right , i have had the same problems with this UNO and internal Oscillator ,it's just needing an CRYSTAL and 2 22PF caps not that COSTLY!

WATCH MY VIDEO about this STANDALONE!

http://www.facebook.com/v/199181843427999

Hello DARAGAO,
                           ALL these people who posted above are nice! and very eager to help and will always go like this ,because we are the people who love to STUDY,this is What is mean't by a Engineer or Simply a Curious Mind.

Best Regards,
Nishant Sood

and KEG7..........(how you formed this CODE!)......You are right!.....It's not Mickey Mouse(Atleast that comment was worth few nice loud laughs!)

Tried that but need to know some reliable names?

It's the cheapest?

The resistor is in that place because there is nothing the switch is actually controlling only it's state needs to be used by the arduino for programming like if switch is ON then motor moves one way and if OFF moves the other way. as there is no actual electrical element controlled by it the current will be in excess at it's connecting point's that will more likely heat the switch.

yes definitely that needs to be calculated ,however not that correct it's needed i mean if about 420 ohms resistance is needed then you can go with about 500,520 ohms resistance it's Okey.

Because the chip that's used in there is actually a H - BRIDGE that can accept voltages Between 3or 5v to 36 volt DC and an LED can't ,However depending on it's MM.


FOR LEARNING ELECTRONICS :
http://sites.google.com/site/adifferentlemming/Home/projects/arduino

http://www.ikalogic.com/beg_1_res_v_c.php

(or go to college!  )

i want a cheap okey working wireless camera , can anybody tell me about the place i should look for it?

With LEFTY ReUNZIP the IDE first (The Zipped pack you already have!) if it's working okey, if its not then Download a New! one.(Sometimes Unzipping can be faulty too.)

Check whether the Library is Actually in place or it's in total there nothing's missing so as to cause a mis-compilation.

Not sure this will help you or not but soldering on metal is okey if you use some soldering paste along with solder it should stuck ok! but not withstand many shocks or tinkling.

That's really nice! of your Finding's.

You Don't need all that you are calling for you can buy a NOKIA CA-42 or NOKIA DKU-5 Cable in INDIA as i have , i have an CA-42 (though was a little tough to have that in North India!) and Modify it as http://letsmakerobots.com/node/23728 and your ON no need of traditional Board you can free your self of it all alone.

Regards,
Nishant Sood
(An Indian)

Should I use the internal or an external clock?

If I should use the internal (it needs to be fairly accurate):
The datasheet says the clock is shipped at 8MHz@3V, so how can I change this to 5V?

8 Mhz @ 3vdc means mainly that on 3v supplied to the chip it will run on 8MHz Speed z& you donot have to change anything just supply the atmel 5 volts(look onto the datasheet mainly for ATmega's commonly 3.3v to 5.5v will suffice, someother ATmega like the 168A takes lower voltage to start i.e. 2.7v)
and put a Crystal Oscillator i have had Million problem's getting the Internal one work(other than synchronizing problems and low speed).

seems Okey but i can't get the bigger picture however it's not a big deal normally it should be fine , but how did you fried the copper trace did you connect any other place as well or just the USB connection , in my knowledge it should be no problem with the 5vdc that is provided on the USB ports but then if you haven't connected it with any thing else but with only the USB port and it's trace got fumed then Donot buy it may be in that case would be the WRONG TRACE width calculation problem.

Nice! and Happy! to Know about that