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31  Products / Arduino Due / Re: DUE's more advanced FFT capabilities on: November 11, 2012, 01:12:30 pm
There's always the Teensy 3.0, which has the DSP extensions in it's core.
32  Community / Exhibition / Gallery / Re: Warning! One Million Ohms on: November 05, 2012, 09:01:33 pm
I'm using the LiPoNano from Tindie to charge it (and my other LiPo packs).
33  Community / Exhibition / Gallery / Re: Warning! One Million Ohms on: November 04, 2012, 03:29:46 pm
Just wanted to post a little update. I think I mentioned my plan to go with a more wearable battery pack for this thing. I picked up a USB LiPo charger from Tindie with a nice JST connector on it. Works great with a LiPo pack I bought from SparkFun, but that pack was meant for a different project. So I dug around in my junk drawer and found an old bluetooth headset that never really worked right, and had been sitting around for at least 3 years. I pried it open and found a nice small LiPo pack inside. Some more digging in my junk drawer and I found some JST connectors at the end of some vibration motors from an old XBox controller that had died. Combine the JST pigtails with this little battery pack, and I was able to charge it with the USB charger. I swapped out the screw terminal on the Million Ohms board with a JST connector (polarity was backwards for the right angle connector I had, so I had to bend the pins all the way over and install it upside down. I was surprised they put up with it!). Conveniently enough, the LiPo pack had some doublestick tape on it that was still good, so I just stuck it to the back of the board and plugged it in. The extra voltage did wonders for the blue LED's. They're insanely bright now. smiley Real attention grabber. Not sure of the capacity of this battery, maybe 150mAh?  But this unit seems to sleep when it's not blinking so I suspect the battery life will just fine.
Here are some pictures:

34  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: Hooking up Christmas lights to Arduino on: September 26, 2012, 01:54:32 pm
Clicking relays? I'd recommend against mechanical relays for this sort of thing. Way too much lag. Use some solid state relays.
It's quite possible that between the lag of the relays, and the time it takes your bulbs to light up, you're turning them back off before they can incandesce.
Check out my setup: http://www.neonsquirt.com/arduinoxmas/ 
Solid state relays are actually far simpler to wire to an Arduino than mechanical ones.
35  Using Arduino / Sensors / Re: Problems with ATTiny and it's ADC's on: September 26, 2012, 01:51:11 pm
I'm using TMP36 sensors. I'll give that a shot. I've got a whole bunch of these ATTiny85's, I'll try swapping a different one in.
36  Using Arduino / Sensors / Re: Problems with ATTiny and it's ADC's on: September 25, 2012, 08:20:27 pm
Here's the output from my Python test program:
Code:
Zone 1 ADC = 740
Zone 2 ADC = 729
Zone 1 Voltage = 0.705
Zone 2 Voltage = 0.703
Zone 1 is 20.46C
Zone 2 is 20.27C
Zone 1 is 68.8F
Zone 2 is 68.5F
I changed my sketch to use the internal VRef, hence the higher ADC numbers than before. Anyways, using my fluke meter, pressing against the pins of the ATTiny itself, both analog 2 and 3 are seeing the exact same voltage, which was .704 during this testing. I'm not exactly sure why the CPU is reporting different numbers, but I apply a correction factor (vary the ARef voltage in the equation "ARef/1024") to get the correct voltage. It seems that if I get the voltage to read correctly, the temperature comes out correct.
Anyways, thanks for the help on this one guys.
37  Using Arduino / Sensors / Re: Problems with ATTiny and it's ADC's on: September 25, 2012, 11:12:18 am
You never set the pins to input.  I had also read that you need to toss the first result when switching analog pins. So you're definitely having great success. You're using serial on pin 1, AND reading analog from it.... Apparently the pin numbering is nothing like I imagined.
38  Using Arduino / Sensors / Re: Problems with ATTiny and it's ADC's on: September 24, 2012, 09:21:46 pm
Ok, I managed to get it working. Instead of calling it Pin 3, I called it A2. The HLT core would not let me do that, it wouldn't take pinMode(A2, INPUT);, or any of the A1, A2, A3 defines. This Tiny core does, and it reads the port. Seems to be reading a bit off, but I can apply a correction factor to it as long as it's consistant.
Thanks for the help troubleshooting this, guys.
39  Using Arduino / Sensors / Re: Problems with ATTiny and it's ADC's on: September 24, 2012, 04:05:36 pm
Yes. Used both, same results.
40  Using Arduino / Sensors / Re: Problems with ATTiny and it's ADC's on: September 24, 2012, 01:45:20 pm
Nope, the code has a #define zoneOneSensor 4
then a pinMode(zoneOneSensor, INPUT);
and a analogRead(zoneOneSensor); just like zoneTwoSensor which works on 3, and when I ran a jumper wire from physical pin 3 to 7, and changed the #define zoneOneSensor to 2 instead of 4, it reads fine.
41  Using Arduino / Sensors / Re: Problems with ATTiny and it's ADC's on: September 24, 2012, 11:13:08 am
Physical pin 7, Arduino pin #2, Analog #1 works.
Physical pin 2, Arduino pin #3, Analog #3 works.
Physical pin 3, Arduino pin #4, Analog #2 is the one that returns extremely low values every time.

Shame about the reset pin, I'll never use it if it means it'll be the last time I program the chip.
42  Using Arduino / Sensors / Re: Problems with ATTiny and it's ADC's on: September 23, 2012, 10:35:06 pm

Yeah, I was using this as the reference, it only listed an Analog 1, 2, and 3, no 0, and that first ATTiny core I tried wouldn't accept A1 as a port (pinMode(A1, INPUT)), so I had to use the digital port number, which was 3 and 4 (physically 2 and 3).
I haven't ever tried using the RESET pin for I/O. Will the ICSP programming still work with reset disabled? Very odd that that one ADC won't work for me with two different cores. I haven't found anyone else mentioning it, yet I've run into it in two very different projects now. I even use a "real" ISP programmer now. (USBTinyISP)
43  Using Arduino / Sensors / Re: Problems with ATTiny and it's ADC's on: September 23, 2012, 08:57:19 pm
Thanks for the suggestion. I tried the Arduino-Tiny core as well, and am actually using it now, since there's not much point in switching back. It didn't help, but I did have a brain fart of sorts. I was thinking the ADC was 8 bit.. It's 10 bit.. So 235ish is totally within the correct range. It's within an acceptable margin of error of the correct reading.
As for the other ADC, I've actually encountered this on past ATTiny projects, and go figure, I forgot about it when designing my PCB for this project. "Pin 4"'s ADC doesn't seem to work, so I ran a jumper over to "pin 2", and changed the sketch to use pin 2. It now reads the same readings on both sensors.
The last time I encountered this, I was running an ATTiny on perfboard, I had a potentiometer going into that bum ADC and was using it to vary a PWM output to control a motor speed. Couldn't figure out why the motor speed wouldn't change until I finally tried a different ADC. That was at least 6 months ago, if not 9..
Oh well. I can move forward on my project now. Thanks for the reply.
44  Using Arduino / Sensors / Problems with ATTiny and it's ADC's on: September 23, 2012, 07:03:58 pm
I'm having some issues with my ATTiny85 chips I'm trying to use in a project. The ADC's don't seem to be working at all for me. When I read them one of them stays around 5-7, and the other stays around 235, neither of which is correct. This ATTiny is running at 3.3v, confirmed with a Fluke multimeter. The ADC's are getting good values in from TMP36 sensors, pins 2 and 3 are both at .719v (again, checked with a Fluke multimeter), which doing the math, (719-500)/10 = a believable room temperature in celsius. I'm using this guide and the library he links to:
http://hlt.media.mit.edu/?p=1695
To program the ATTiny with Arduino.
I've written this simple program that runs on the Arduino:
http://pastebin.com/euvajUyu
And yes, I simplified the program and took out my averaging routines, spitting just an instantaneous ADC reading out the serial port when queried, with no change. "Zone 1" does seem to react to changes in temp, going down to 220 from 235, but still way off. Zone 2 just stays around 5 (4-7, kind of noisy).
Is SoftwareSerial screwing with the ADC? Do I need to do something special to get the ADC to work at 3.3v rather than 5v? I figured it'd just be fine.
I hope someone can help me with this odd issue.
45  Community / Exhibition / Gallery / Re: Warning! One Million Ohms on: September 17, 2012, 02:01:02 pm
I think if I were to make a couple mods for wearability, they'd be a slightly smaller size, a square of bare tinned space so the solder mask doesn't have to be sanded off for the clip, and a coin cell holder on the back, as the battery pack is a problem when you're wearing it. I'm just going to glue a coin cell holder to the back of this one and wire it in. But the joy of an open source design is, I need some more practice with Eagle. I can fire up the open files that are provided, and make those changes.
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