Show Posts
Pages: 1 ... 11 12 [13] 14 15 ... 18
181  International / Scandinavia / Re: Anslutning mellan Arduino kort och kopplingdäck eller kopplinglister on: July 19, 2012, 04:49:14 pm
Hej Fredrik,

Quote
1
Om det är denna anslutning kontakt som är den enda som går att sätta i kortet? Bara sätta i kabel håller ju inte!

Det går att sätta i vanlig kabel om du har entrådig kabel av rätt dimension (0,6mm i diameter eller 0,3mm²) men det blir ju lite stelare.
På breadboard (kopplingsdäck) funkar det jättefint att klippa till lagom längder av entrådig kabel. Blir mycket prydligare.

Quote
2
Finns det lösa kontakter att köpa så man kan sätta fast sina egna kablar?

De "kontakter" som sitter på de kablar du pratar om är vanlig tråd som lötts fast i ändarna på den flertrådiga kopplingskabeln. Sen har de dragit en gummimuff över den för att skydda skarven.
Jag skulle inte orka sitta och löda kablar i evigheter utan skulle köpa (har köpt) några paket färdig kopplingstråd billigt på eBay så att jag alltid har nog många av varje färg.
Ex: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/65-PCS-New-Breadboard-Jumper-Cable-Wire-1P-Male-to-Male-for-DIY-67-/251086212168
182  Using Arduino / Microcontrollers / Re: Wiring SparkFun's latest "Basic FTDI Breakout board" to a breadboard on: July 16, 2012, 09:56:29 am
SparkFun writes this about the newest revision: "The major difference with this board is that it brings out the DTR pin as opposed to the RTS pin of the FTDI cable. The DTR pin allows an Arduino target to auto-reset when a new Sketch is downloaded. This is a really nice feature to have and allows a sketch to be downloaded without having to hit the reset button. This board will auto reset any Arduino board that has the reset pin brought out to a 6-pin connector."

The difference they mention is compared to the FTDI cable.
There is no difference between this board and older Basic FTDI breakout boards from Sparkfun. The guide you have found is valid.
I made an example for the previous version a while ago: http://perhof.wordpress.com/2011/11/19/breadboard-arduinos-and-sparkfun-ftdi-basic-breakout/
My version of the board is a bit more similar to the current one than the oldest one. It has the same pin-out, just a different connector.
183  Using Arduino / Installation & Troubleshooting / Re: Menues garbled when opening IDE on: July 16, 2012, 09:38:17 am
I can't help you  but I have the same issue in version 1.0 on Ubuntu so you're not alone.
184  Using Arduino / Installation & Troubleshooting / Re: Missing digital signature for driver on Windows 8 on: July 15, 2012, 04:36:47 am
Thanks Louis for sharing the signed inf and certificate.

Has there been any word on the official approach to this problem?
Disabling driver signing, creating your own signing certificates and manually installing root certificates can hardly be in line with Arduino's image of being an "easy to get started with" platform.
Windows 8 is just around the corner now.


185  Topics / Science and Measurement / Re: Multiple wireless temp. sensors displaying status on tablet PC on: July 13, 2012, 03:04:28 am
They are a little bit more expensive than homebrew modules but is probably not a bad choice.
Never tried them.

If you want to run your sensors from batteries you may want to skip the voltage regulator and run directly from battery to decrease the power consumption.
186  Topics / Science and Measurement / Re: Multiple wireless temp. sensors displaying status on tablet PC on: July 12, 2012, 04:44:23 pm
Building a wireless sensor network won't be very cheap but it can be loads of fun.
This is one approach to an Arduino based wireless network:

For a wireless sensor you probably want a temp sensor like the DS18B20.
You need a microcontroller (Arduino) that can read the values from the sensor and you need a wireless transmitter to send the sensor readings to your "hub".
The cheapest wireless transmitters and receivers around seems to be the OOK 433 units on the page you linked. They are apparently out of stock where you were looking but they are available from other sources at lower prices.
I've bought them from eBay and yesterday someone here recommended ElectroDragon (http://www.electrodragon.com/?product_cat=wireless-modules)
You might need an Arduino and a transmitter for each sensor. If some sensors are closer together they could share the same Arduino/transmitter.
You will only need one receiver for the hub that will collect the data from your sensors.

This will soon add up to a lot of Arduinos that are both too bulky and too expensive as temp sensors so you will probably need to build your own custom boards using ATmegas or ATtiny's. I don't know which of the Tinies that can handle the libraries for the wireless modules. Haven't used ATtiny myself.

There are several options for displaying the temperatures on the tablet. I don't know of a ready-made solution that doesn't require programming. Which options you have depends on what kind of tablet you have but you probably don't want to have the receiving Arduino connected directly to your tablet all the time. Do you?
If that's what you want that could be done by using processing for example but that requires Windows/Mac/Linux rather than iPad or Android.

If you add an Ethernet shield you can post the data to some web page that the tablet can read or you can even run a web server on the receiving Arduino.
A simple network based client/server application might work too.

If the tablet has Bluetooth that could be an option for communication between tablet and Arduino.

Use your imagination.

If you have no idea at all how to do any of it you have a big mountain to climb.

I'm currently playing with a PHP-based web solution for logging temperatures from my sensors to a database and graphing them using Gnuplot. Unfortunately I don't have anything finished to offer you.
187  Using Arduino / Installation & Troubleshooting / Re: Wrong code prevents upload new and correct sketch on: July 12, 2012, 03:36:31 pm
See if this works:

Pause the sketch by pushing the reset button and keeping it pressed.
Upload new sketch (still holding reset button)
Wait until the Arduino IDE reports the binary sketch size in the debug window and then immediately release the button.
Hopefully your sketch will be uploaded before the board locks up.

You might have to try several times to get the timing right.

Edit: CrossRoads beat me to it. We're talking about the same thing.
188  Using Arduino / Installation & Troubleshooting / Re: Serial port is grayed on: July 12, 2012, 03:26:05 pm
If TX is on all the time you're most likely locking the USB interface with to much serial data. It sounds an awful lot like a problem with the firmware.

Run this:
Code:
lsusb -v -d 2341: | grep -i bcdDevice
A good board should have version 0.01
A board that needs a new firmware would have 0.00

If it's not the firmware,
do you have access to a Windows computer? You could try connecting your board to that one and install the drivers. See if that makes a difference.
Maybe you could upload some other sketch (blink?) from Windows to see if it has anything to do with serial data from the sketch you have in flash.

Quote
Is there a way to debug the program? Should I download the source and try tu run it from source?

I'm not sure which program you are talking about.
If you mean the Arduino IDE, yes if the one you have is installed from some repository then download the latest version from arduino.cc instead, unpack it and just run it from the unpacked dir.
Which version are you using now?
189  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: Changing location of Libraries folder on a Mac on: July 12, 2012, 01:33:16 pm
I haven't used a Mac but on other platforms you can put your custom libraries in a "libraries" folder within your sketchbook.
If you can do this and place your sketchbook in your dropbox folder you should be ok.

190  Using Arduino / Installation & Troubleshooting / Re: Serial port is grayed on: July 12, 2012, 12:02:23 pm
Is the TX light on or flashing while the board is connected?

If you for some reason still is affected by the old firmware bug and has a board sending lots of serial data this trick would make the port show up:
Keep the reset button pushed while plugging in the board to USB.
With the reset button still pressed, navigate to the tools menu and see if you can access the serial port menu while reset is held.
This prevents any sketches in flash to run but the 8u2 chip will be active and idling so the board should respond.
191  Using Arduino / Installation & Troubleshooting / Re: Serial port is grayed on: July 12, 2012, 10:08:02 am
@perhof: That is true, but it should not be necessary to login as root. To me, that has bad security problems.

You're absolutely right.
I just thought that we shouldn't get stuck on device permissions when it was stated that it had been tried as root.
And I think that an Ubuntu user, at least the admin user created during install is a member of the dialup group by default.
192  Using Arduino / Installation & Troubleshooting / Re: Serial port is grayed on: July 12, 2012, 09:46:50 am
Quote
$ ls -l /dev/ttyACM*
crw-rw---- 1 root dialout 166, 0 jul 12 10:57 /dev/ttyACM0

You must be a member of the dialout group OR be root.
193  Using Arduino / General Electronics / Re: RF Transmitter and Receiver WRL-10535 and WRL-10533 on: July 11, 2012, 06:40:48 pm
Quote
Worse case scenario about 15 meters, but mostly within 10 meters.

I'd say you should reach 15 meters no matter what kind of wire and which of the antenna lengths you select as long as it's a length that matches the frequency.
Selecting any other length might not help.

Quote
I'm still playing with stuff just testing and prototyping right now.  Got some transceivers to try out next if I can figure out how to wire them.  They just use a bit more power which I'm not crazy about since I'm trying to keep these things low enough to run off batteries for a good amount of time.

What's the application if i may ask?
194  Using Arduino / Installation & Troubleshooting / Re: Serial port is grayed on: July 11, 2012, 06:24:49 pm
Code:
cd /dev
ls tty*

to actually show the permissions it should be
ls -l tty*
but as mentioned - the IDE is already running as root so it shouldn't be permissions.

Is the board showing up as a serial port at all?
Code:
ls /dev/ttyACM*
You should see a device named ttyACMx. Most likely ttyACM0.

If not, check if it's listed if you issue this command
Code:
lsusb
I don't remember the exact name and ID of the board but I believe it starts with Atmel.

If it is listed by lsusb but doesn't show up as a tty device, search through /var/log/dmesg for errors related to the device id shown by lsusb.

If it is indeed listed as /dev/ttyACMx but doesn't show up in the IDE it might be locked by some other process.
There could also be something wrong with your Arduino installation/configuration.

195  Using Arduino / General Electronics / Re: RF Transmitter and Receiver WRL-10535 and WRL-10533 on: July 11, 2012, 03:00:59 pm
17cm is for 434 MHz.

Right, it should be 17. My bad.
I've also read 13 in some guides but it should be 17 for 434MHz and that's what I'm using.

Quote
315 MHz ~1.5ft,
1/4 of that, ~11cm, should work well

What is 11cm? 1/8 wavelength?
Guess it should work too.

Experiment a bit. Try 11-12 cm and route it around inside your enclosure and try 24 cm and make more loops. It doesn't necessarily have to stick out.
Maybe it has to if you use a metal enclosure.

Any piece of wire should do. I've used thick single core copper without plastic insulation, thin single core jumper wire with insulation, a multi core wire with insulation from an ethernet cable (there are eight of these in each cable) and that worked fine too. I don't know what's best in theory.

The alarm devices you're mentioning are probably using coil antennas or pcb loop antennas which are a bit harder to get right.
Maybe someone here can tell what dimensions you would need for that.

What kind of range are you aiming for?
Pages: 1 ... 11 12 [13] 14 15 ... 18