I did a write up on this a while back.

Here you go, http://www.johndimo.com/2011/05/06/how-to-program-your-arduino-uno-with-an-avr-isp-mkii/

This is my first project I put together in an effort to learn more about the Arduino platform. It's a digital thermometer that with an external connector to the DS18B20 temp sensor. The first sensor I built keeps the sensor close to give me ambient temps and I'm currently building 2 others. One with long wires that I can place just further away and one that is waterproof so I can measure liquid temps.

I'd have to say, I'm really liking the speed of prototyping that the Arduino platform offers me.

http://www.johndimo.com/2011/02/25/diy-arduino-based-digital-thermometer/

You are missing limiting resistors. You'll blow the led's on the optos in the targeted device without them.

You are a genius

Why dont they put this kind of thing in the datasheets, thankfully I had put it on correctly first time.  Just need to test now.

Thanks!

No problem. Good luck with the testing! Hope all goes good.

I've seen lots of SOIC parts that have no painted markings or a dimple on one end on them to denote where pin 1 is.

Look at the plastic body. Look and see if one entire side of it is shaved at a 45 angle.

Typically with parts like this, one side of the chip will be a standard 90 degree, the other at around 45 degree.  The side with the angle in it is how you can tell what it is.
Look at the pic below. See the offset in the marking? That's because of the angle in the body. The marking is centered on the flat area.  The leftmost pin on the side with the angle is pin 1.

The most important lesson for beginners to understand about using digital multi-meters is the danger of attempting to measure a voltage if the meter leads/function are setup in current measurement mode. A current must be measured with the meter leads in series while a voltage is measured in parallel.

A meter in current mode is in effect a direct short circuit (at least up to it's 10amp protection fuse, if it has a fuse) between the measurement leads and if you have a brain fart and attempt to measure a voltage it can cause damage to the circuit you are trying to measure. Some meters have a warning beeper if function is voltage but leads are in current mode.

Lefty
 

I've been working with electronics for 13 years and to this day every once in a while I have done exactly this! I'm always extra careful at work, but sometimes I overlook the simplest things. One time while measuring a 700vdc DC bus voltage I mistakenly unplugged the wires from my meter instead of the voltage source. Gave myself a shock that I'll never forget. My hand was shaking for hours after.

Let this be a warning to people. Please always double and triple check what you are doing, for your safety and the safety of the electronics you're working with.

A quick way to check the resistance on a resistor that low of value is to first measure the resistor. Then short out your leads to measure the resistance in the leads (most affordable leads will read .3 to .5 on a good meter). Subtract the resistance of your leads from the value you read when you measured the resistor.

Also, remember the tolerance of 5%. For a 3.9 ohm resistor, the value can be anywhere from 3.7 ohms to 4.1 ohms.

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=255-2649-ND

Here is the datasheet for these, http://pewa.panasonic.com/assets/pcsd/catalog/napion-catalog.pdf

Curious about these. I like the size of it and that all the circuitry is internal with only 3 pins showing. Looks like they can be ordered with digital and analog output, use 5VDC power, and low current requirements.

Can anyone who has used any of these comment on it's sensitivity? Are they pretty reliable?

I've used the one from Sparkfun but looking for something smaller with smaller range.This line of sensors has 2m, 5m and 10m models.

I've also use the parallax one, but I find it is hard to mount and use in a practical manner and it's extremely sensitive and goes off too much for my liking. Sometimes even when there is nothing in front of it.

According to the site, the UNO can't be used as an ISP yet because of the new optiboot bootloader that the UNO is using.

NOTE: Currently, you cannot use an Arduino Uno as an ISP programmer because the optiboot bootloader does not support this sketch. A revision for this is in progress.

That quote taken from here: http://arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/ArduinoISP

You'll need more hooked up than just power and ground wires. A 16mhz crystal with 18-22pf capacitors (the actual size of the capacitors you'll need depends on the crystal you get) or a 16mhz resonator, which has the capacitors built in. Resonators sacrifice accuracy in the name of having a smaller size and require fewer components. You'll also need a 10k pullup resistor on the reset pin as well.

Here's a link that will show you the minimum components to get the chip going. After that, attach your other circuits to the pins you were using and you're good to go.
http://arduino.cc/en/Main/Standalone

Unfortunately they are surface mount components 

Martyn

Mouser also has the DIP version as well.

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Atmel/ATMEGA328P-PU/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtVoztFdqDXO6rEZqxeooRg

Double check your wiring and make sure that pull-down resistor is connected to gnd and the other end to the pin on the arduino that you're using for reading the state of the button.

Make sure your switch is fully opening when not being pressed. This assumes you have a multi-meter handy so that you can read Ohms. A faulty switch could cause the problems you're seeing.

Can you provide a schematic for the button circuit?

So you're getting button presses without actually hitting that button at all? Or is this a debounce issue?

As of my this post a quick search on mouser.com shows they have 38K+ of them in stock.

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Atmel/ATMEGA328P-AU/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtVoztFdqDXO3RbBx7FKCmV

Hi,

first of all tnx for the detailed report.

This issue was related to "remember me" feature of login.
When a user "automatically reenter", the email wasn't correctly remembered, so the first 'notice' appears (with the consequent chain of errors).

Now its fixed, and the "remember me" feature should work (tests welcome ).

Cool! I just logged on a few minutes ago and the error didn't pop up for me, so I went to this thread and noticed your reply. So far everything looks ok. If I get any errors on my Mac or iPhone in the future I'll let you guys know.