Midi wifi

My Macbook can establish a wifi midi network with my ipad2 and send/receive midi data from the ipad to the computer. There is also a program called rtpMIDI that lets you create this MIDI networkfrom a wondows pc. I am trying to figure out if its possible to create this wifi midi link without a computer, using a wifi module like roving networks for example. I'm almost certain the Mac is the host, so the roving networks would need to mimic a "midi wifi host"?  If I could do this, then I could make any kind of musically instrument with an Arduino that creates midi commands, and sends them via wifi to an iOS device. Right now, my homemade instruments have to resort to sending the midi commands through the dock connector of the iOS device, with third party hardware, but a wireless midi connection would great!  I know the ipad supports midi over wifi, I just don't know if its possible to create this network with a standalone module like roving networks makes.  I'll sure appritiate hearing from anyone who is familiar with a wifi midi network.
Attached are photos of some musical instrents I've made.
Thanks!

Thanks. I always wondered about how easy it'd be to pull the chip outa one and reuse. Not worth the bother.

What about just using the GPS out of one. I've considered taking an old one apart. Has anyone done this?  Does the GPS receiver unplug like one you'd buy at SparkFun?

I'm surprised no one has hack a nuvi into an Arduino project yet.

take the 10-pin connector on the end.. stick header pins/jumpers to:

1 - VCC
2 - MOSI
3 - GND
6 - RESET
8 - SCK
10 - MISO

and connect to my Arduino board to: (respectively matching above)

+5v
D11
GND
RSET
D13
D12

I think you'll need pin 10 instead of reset?  This was mentioned early in this thread

Yes. If it works, ill post more photos.

Edited my layout a bit, and will see how it works.  Yes the diode is for testing purposes, so I know it's flashed before soldering it on an important board.  I first designed it to sit inside the perimeter of the UNO, but then changed it so it sets on pins 8 thru 13, on the outside, with the chip on the very outside of the little 1" square board.  I have a tiny spring clamp, about like a clothes pin, I can clamp the chip on with that, visually inspect it for squareness, and flash away. 
I'll let you know how it works in about a month.

Thanks for the feedback.  I'll update my design a little and try it out.

I read where someone put the bootloader on their SMD Atmega328P by just manually pressing/holding it on pads while the bootloader loaded.  I made this little board to do this, but before I add it to my next BatchPCB order, I had 2 questions.

I designed it where I could just plug it into pins 8 thru 13 on my UNO.  Will pins 8 and 9 supply enough current to do this task?  8 will be the ground, 9 will be +5 volts.

Also, if the connection fails during the bootloading process, does that 'brick' the chip?

thanks,

ps.  All the components (caps, crystal, and a test LED-to verify success via the blink sketch) will be soldered to the board.  Only the Atmega328P-AU will be left blank, to manually hold the chip on and bootload it.

Ah yes, looking at the pin out I see now that sixth pin connects to reset. So I can't use it to burn another chip on a breadboard.

In the picture taken from this page, can I just use the ICSP header since I have a ribbon cable that plugs into that?  There's no difference from the ICSP pins and the 6 pins on the UNO, right?
http://arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/ArduinoISP

Thanks for all1. I think that's pretty well it on the hardware end of the project. Will get some actual readings from the motor with its load attached, and see what amperage I'm using.  Then will make the final decision on whether to use AA or C cells. Will report back.

Very good!  I found the begin() statement and commented it out.  

I reckon I should use the backlight for my LCD, then.  I searched and found this schematic that turns is on and off.  I cuts the NEG side, but I reckon the POS side isn't connected to the LCD's POS, so it won't back feed into it when I power off the LCD's chip.  Not sure about the value of R7.  Running from 4.5v, I may not need a very high resistor?

One thing I don't know/understand.  When I power down this circuit by a LOW arduino pin, there won't be any current left flowing in the BSS1338 mosfet, then will there? See the attached clip from the BSS1338 data sheet. Does that mean there'll be .5 uA current loss all the time?  Accord Nick Gammon's arduino power page, I can get the Atmega down to .335nA, so the current in the BSS1338 is considerable.  I reckon the one controlling my H-bridge will add another .5uA.

Yes. BTW there is a problem with the LiquidCrystal library: it makes a call to the begin() function in the LiquidCrystal constructor

Searched for 20 minutes, but couldn't come up with any more info about this. Is this something that I need to address?

avoid feeding power through the I/O connections before you power up the LCD

Will this matter?  If so, I assume you mean I should edit one of the text files on my Mac?  Under /Applications/Arduino.app/Contents/Resources/Java/libraries/LiquidCrystal I found 2 files that look like something you might mean to edit?  These came with the Arduino IDE, if something's not right with one of them I'm surprised I couldn't find anything about it around here.
Please advise.


also, here is my completed schematic for the H-bridge shutdown.  I tried to tidy it up a bit, and I think I understood where to add/remove the caps, but if you could check it out, I'd sure appreciate it.

What will I need to do to turn them low, just digitalWrite(pin, LOW)?

Yes. BTW there is a problem with the LiquidCrystal library: it makes a call to the begin() function in the LiquidCrystal constructor (a very silly thing to do IMO, and completely unnecessary because you should call begin() in setup). So you should preferably patch the LiquidCrystal library source file to remove this call, to avoid feeding power through the I/O connections before you power up the LCD.

Is there an updated library that fixes this?  I don't know anything about working with or editing libraries.

Edit:  ill search around about this. I should've done so before asking more about it.