How are you wiring to the controller buttons? Do you have one line from each button? I imagine the inside bundled with wires but I love the idea that the controller can be used without using the added components. I want to use a ribbon cable header (50 pins?) just to provide some spare GND / Power and keep it organized unless you have another suggestion. I know I need the 16 for buttons, 6 for triggers, power for controller, power for analog potentiometers, and GND. I want to have a plug in mounted in the back that I can simply unplug if I wish to not use it for that but plug in a ribbon cable going to an Arduino or other microprocesser circuit and take over it.
I'm finally back in school and in the project spirit. I pulled out the 360 controller I was working on, used an Exacto-Knife, and successfully removed the carbon pads revealing some nice large soldering points for the buttons!
I love the way you have your controller set up. Mine looks so unorganized compared to yours and I want to change that! How exactly did you get that ribbon cable adapter mounted on the back and set up the wires inside?
Hey rafcab, I actually have not followed the tutorial nor was I the author. I am just looking for more information so I'm sorry I can't help but would appreciate it if you could post here or message me if you make any progress on the project.
In my experience with WiiMotes, you hold 1 & 2 to sync a Wiimote with a Bluetooth adapter.
I was helping another forum member in this post with the same thing you want. He wants a macro ability to take panorama shots in halo reach. He said for his buttons he used fine grit sand paper to remove the coating on the button pads which gives him a much bigger solder joint. I did enameled wire and hot glue, which is similar to yours.
I removed the sticks and triggers from mine, I just want the board, so with that being said, I would love to find a version of a controller that has ample test points for buttons and sticks. I'll look into the Matrix model you described and see. I'm using a wireless CG model.
In the above post, it shows where to order the digital potentiometers for free (University or work email), and how I used them so give it a read and feel free to ask questions!
I did a similar project to this and I would love to know more details on what you did. I took the PCB of the controller, unsoldered the triggers and joysticks and then I connected digital potentiometers to replace them. It worked flawlessly with controlled input.
That being said, my buttons were nightmares. I used an exacto knife to scrape the trace and solder to that tiny tiny piece with enameled wire. It was terrible and unstable. How are you handling your connection to the buttons? I think this project is great and glad someone else has a similar interest!
Dude that's an awesome idea! Definitely going to try that when I bust it out again. Also, I see you're using transistors and pull up/down resistors. I recommend this Quad Bilateral Switch IC! It has 4 digital transistors on board. Power it with the Arduino, connect to ground, and all you have to do is set a pin High to enable the button press, and it condenses the circuit very well due to no resistors or individual transistors! I started with transistors like you but this was so much easier to manage. Use 4 of those ICs (~50 cents each) and you can control all the buttons.
I already documented my + & - on my controller, so I'm looking forward to trying this. I've never scratched off this black coating, how long does it take? I'm not sure what I'll be seeing under it.
You can find out your version at Xbox-scene.com. I would link you but I'm at work and the site is blocked.
Now I have a few questions for you. First of all, you said it was free, and I was paying >$6 per chip when I ordered so if you could link me the free one I'd really like that.
And second, are you soldering to the controller board for the buttons? I had to use enameled wire and it is the biggest pain to scratch off the coated traces and have the smallest exposed metal trace to solder to. How did you do your button connections?
Edit: Ordered on Analog.com! Awesome find, thanks.
That's it! Now I found some code here. I see some button and accelerometer states which is great, but what is the chance there is code for the infrared readings? I would like the Arduino to behave based on the orientation of the Wiimote not only by accelerometer but where it is pointing on a screen.
Hey guys, I need some help getting started. I'm having a difficult time finding everything I need. I like to keep things organized so I want to know everything before I make a purchase. I am trying to follow this post.
I see where to buy the Arduino & USB Shield, but where can I buy the supported Bluetooth dongle in the post? I have a dongle but it probably isn't supported. Where can I download an example of the code and the library used?
I've been browsing through watching the video and I want to make sure that this has ALL the Wiimote Buttons + Accelerometers + Infrared.
Hey Halo2Freeek, I'm GoofBallTech's friend. Glad to meet a fellow halo enthusiast! Like you, I'm an avid halo fan and not just for its gameplay. Between 2003 and 2007, and I made many mods and maps for Halo 1 & 2 and thoroughly enjoyed making my own levels for Halo 1 on Xbox. My gamertag is Agnt 007 (yes Zeros) and we should play sometime together on Reach or Anniversary!
I did a similar project when I got a Wiimote to work on an Xbox 360. What I recommend (and what I did) is to use the chip referenced in the above post. This chip has 6 Digital Potentiometers on board and is connected through SPI. First thing i did was unsolder the joysticks. I'm not sure if you're using a Common Wire (CW) or Common Ground (CG) controller, but I used a CG. That means I took one of the 6 power supplies from the Analog Pots (2 Triggers and 4 on the Joysticks), and I used that one source for all 6 "A" pins on the IC. Then I used the GND from the battery pack for the the 6 "B" pins on the IC. The Wiper arms should go to the 6 Wiper pins. The simple code that I used to set the value of the chip was:
// Take the CS pin low to select the chip: cs=0; // Send in the address and value via SPI: jst.write(address); jst.write(value); // Take the CS pin high to de-select the chip: cs=1;
Address is between 0 - 5 (1 - 6) and value is 0 - 255.
Therefore, you would write 128 for the value initially to let it sit still. Then you can change it +/- 3 to get very slow moving camera. You'd have to record the time yourself to see how fast to move each one but after getting this system set up, you'll be able to walk (or fly in forge) into a spot, and hit your macro, go heat you up a hot pocket, and before you're finished tending to the burns on the roof of your mouth, you'll have all your screenshots! I'm not sure what your tech level is but just post back if you need any help. I'd like to see some progress on this because it does have potential.